The Anderson & Sheppard Expatriates Thread

[dieworkwear]

My A&S does have a fair amount of sleeve fullness, also a good inch and a half drape in the back.

I wouldn't say it's the only way to achieve a similar comfort in movement, but it's definitely a lovely coat.

Who was your cutter?

 

[Nobilis Animus]

Who was your cutter?

That one was cut by Dennis Halberry. Not quite as full in the undersleeves as in the video, but definitely a larger arm.

I do have some jackets from other makers which don't use as much drape and still achieve quite a bit of comfort, but with other details like a shorter back/neck measurement combined with high armholes.

 

[dieworkwear]

That one was cut by Dennis Halberry. Not quite as full in the undersleeves as in the video, but definitely a larger arm.

I do have some jackets from other makers which don't use as much drape and still achieve quite a bit of comfort, but with other details like a shorter back/neck measurement combined with high armholes.

Your cutter was Dennis Halberry? I'm surprised because you look quite young and Halberry retired a long time ago.

 

[Nobilis Animus]

Sorry, should have specified that that one was from the same relative as the Huntsman I posted before. My personal commissions off-Row have been with lesser-known houses, or those who do more military cuts.

 

[dauster]

I couldn't wait any longer and had a successful zoom-based commission from Steed. You might give it a try.

??? I assume this only worked because they already had your pattern and measurements, right? For a first commission seems impossible

 

[dieworkwear]

??? I assume this only worked because they already had your pattern and measurements, right? For a first commission seems impossible

Yes, it's for people who already have their patterns. Matthew offered it to me when the lockdown first occurred. He mentioned that they've done it in the past with other customers, so it's not a new thing for them.

I think for Steed, I would trust that they would sort out any problems in the end, should they arise. I had a lightweight gabardine suit made many years ago and it took a surprising number of fittings because the cloth kept turning and twisting (in the future, I would recommend going with a heavier gab). But they ended up sorting it out; it just took a while.

 

[dauster]

Yes, it's for people who already have their patterns. Matthew offered it to me when the lockdown first occurred. He mentioned that they've done it in the past with other customers, so it's not a new thing for them.

I think for Steed, I would trust that they would sort out any problems in the end, should they arise. I had a lightweight gabardine suit made many years ago and it took a surprising number of fittings because the cloth kept turning and twisting (in the future, I would recommend going with a heavier gab). But they ended up sorting it out; it just took a while.

agreed, I would need to be very comfortable with my tailor so that i can be sure they fix any issues.
did you ever try to order via zoom call?

 

[dieworkwear]

agreed, I would need to be very comfortable with my tailor so that i can be sure they fix any issues.
did you ever try to order via zoom call?

I haven't. I wish them the best and hope they survive this difficult time. I'm currently sitting on a deposit for an overcoat and a sport coat, but figured I would just wait until they arrive in the United States.

If someone was already a customer and wanted to try this Zoom thing, however, I would trust Steed to just work it out in the end. With other tailors, I'm not so sure. A&S charges for alterations, for example, so I wouldn't want to waste a fitting over Zoom (although I don't know if they do Zoom fittings). But Steed does free alterations for life on any garment, so I assume they'll just make it right in the end.

 

[dauster]

I haven't. I wish them the best and hope they survive this difficult time. I'm currently sitting on a deposit for an overcoat and a sport coat, but figured I would just wait until they arrive in the United States.

If someone was already a customer and wanted to try this Zoom thing, however, I would trust Steed to just work it out in the end. With other tailors, I'm not so sure. A&S charges for alterations, for example, so I wouldn't want to waste a fitting over Zoom (although I don't know if they do Zoom fittings). But Steed does free alterations for life on any garment, so I assume they'll just make it right in the end.

A&S charges for alterations on a 5000 pounds bespoke suit? really? or only if I come back 5 years later and I lost 50 pounds?!?!

 

[patrickBOOTH]

A&S used to be very cheap compared to other houses. Not so much anymore it seems.

 

[dieworkwear]

A&S charges for alterations on a 5000 pounds bespoke suit? really? or only if I come back 5 years later and I lost 50 pounds?!?!

Yes, they charge for alterations. It's been a few years, so my exact recollection may be off, but I vaguely remember them charging an acquaintance of mine something like $300 to take in the waist. He wasn't expecting the bill to arrive either; it just came after the job was done.

A&S used to be very cheap compared to other houses. Not so much anymore it seems.

Compared to the Row, their prices are still fairly low. At least among the more notable firms. Huntsman quoted me something like $2k for a pair of pants five years ago. I imagine the price is higher now. A&S pants were something like $1,500 around the same period.

 

[dauster]

Yes, they charge for alterations. It's been a few years, so my exact recollection may be off, but I vaguely remember them charging an acquaintance of mine something like $300 to take in the waist. He wasn't expecting the bill to arrive either; it just came after the job was done.



Compared to the Row, their prices are still fairly low. At least among the more notable firms. Huntsman quoted me something like $2k for a pair of pants five years ago. I imagine the price is higher now. A&S pants were something like $1,500 around the same period.

fair enough I guess, I was just always told that bespoke includes alterations for life - at least that's the "spiel" RA gave me...

 

[nmprisons]

??? I assume this only worked because they already had your pattern and measurements, right? For a first commission seems impossible

They did. I can't imagine a first commission done fully remote.

 

[nmprisons]

If someone was already a customer and wanted to try this Zoom thing, however, I would trust Steed to just work it out in the end.

That's were I am. Thankfully, this jacket turned out great and so there was nothing to work out. Indeed, the slight adjustments we decided to make to this most recent jacket turned out so well that I'm having a jacket they already made altered to match. They were more than happy to accommodate. And I just placed another order for another suit.

I really like Edwin and Matthew and hope to work with them for many years to come. In my view, it's now that we should be placing orders with folks who fit that description.

 

[bdavro23]

They did. I can't imagine a first commission done fully remote.

I have seen MTM commissions turn out well with remote fittings, but those relied on fit garments. I would imagine it would be much more difficult in the bespoke space, but dont have any experience with that.