The Anderson & Sheppard Expatriates Thread

[gdl203]

Of course we're not serious. Was that a serious question?

 

[Manton]

Originally Posted by gdl203

Of course we're not serious. Was that a serious question?

I believe that you weren't serious. I would bet a bottle of cheap wine that some of the others were.

I also don't know what that smiley means.

 

[gdl203]

Originally Posted by Manton

I also don't know what that smiley means.
I'm not sure either. But it seemed somewhat apppropriate when asking if you were serious about us being serious.

 

[kcc]

The breast pocket does have right angles lending to a "boxy" appearance, but the hip pockets are nicely shaped.

Drakes madder neckwear? Love the look.

 

[kolecho]

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

- B


It's a nice tweed you have there.

 

[Baron]

Definitely one of my favorite jackets ever posted on the forums. Love the cloth, the shape, the styling, the fit - everything.

 

[andreyb2]

Vox, superb.

Andrey

 

[NOBD]

Originally Posted by T4phage

and that is the problem of judging from a photo

True.

 

[fritzl]

Originally Posted by NOBD

What do you think?

i think, with all the respect, blah, blah, etc., etc. ...

the size of the hip pockets doesn't fit into the overall proportions of the jacket.

they would even still be a bit off on i.e. a jacket made for manton...

certainly, this is just a prersonal preference and not a critic on the workmanship and execution of the garment.

 

[voxsartoria]

Originally Posted by kcc

The breast pocket does have right angles lending to a "boxy" appearance, but the hip pockets are nicely shaped.

Drakes madder neckwear? Love the look.

Well, the patches that Edwin did for me before were much more rectangular. If you looked closely, you could tell that they were cut in, with angled tops, but the deviation from right angles was subtle.

The new ones are not like that at all, but they might not be curvy enough for you. If you look at the pockets against the over check, you'll see there isn't a single right angle:

The necktie that I wore yesterday is an E. G. Cappelli lined six, for ASW.

- B

 

[aj_del]

^^ In the second pic why is there no dip in the horizontal lines above the pocket ? I thought that in a darted jacket the horizontal line cannot be flat at all points.

Great SC in all respects, except the length which I feel is 1" too long and the pockets which to me are .5" too deep. But again, both points are nitpicking to the n-th degree

 

[voxsartoria]

Originally Posted by aj_del

^^ In the second pic why is there no dip in the horizontal lines above the pocket ? I thought that in a darted jacket the horizontal line cannot be flat at all points.

I don't know, but in skilled hands cloth is shaped not only by cut but by the iron.


- B

 

[aj_del]

But then what will be the point of an undarted jacket ? I thought the only benefit was horizontal lines and the downside was less shape in the waist. In this jacket you have the best of both worlds

 

[voxsartoria]

Originally Posted by aj_del

Great SC in all respects, except the length which I feel is 1" too long and the pockets which to me are .5" too deep. But again, both points are nitpicking to the n-th degree

Where's whnay. when I need him?

We experimented once with a jacket by making it one inch shorter. At the fitting, it was pinned up carefully all around.

I put it on, and Edwin and I looked at each other without comment. A few moments passed. We then simultaneously burst out laughing. The jacket was unpinned, and restored to its former length.

A while back I posted a comparison of a standing shot of iammatt and me since we are about the same height. His Rubinacci jackets are described as a bit on the short side, while you see my Steeds as long. Placed together, however, for all extents and purposes the two jackets were the same length...approximately bisecting our height from floor to collar.

The hems hit the thighs at different points, though, because his legs are shorter while mine are on the lanky side. If you ignore overall balance of the jacket on your entire body and focus in too much the jacket its own, and insist that it always hover at the crotch, poo's jackets would be longer and mine would be shorter. Both scenarios, in my opinion, would look far worse than what our each of our tailors have already decided for us. It's like picking your buttoning point by navel position: that make no sense at all.

Of course, there really isn't any rule to this. Hems go up and down a bit depending on fashion.


- B

 

[voxsartoria]

Originally Posted by aj_del

But then what will be the point of an undarted jacket ? I thought the only benefit was horizontal lines and the downside was less shape in the waist. In this jacket you have the best of both worlds

Hmmm. Well, the main point of a dartless jacket is how a dartless jacket looks. That alone is a sufficient reason.

All of my Steeds have an underarm cut that terminates short of the armhole...I think that this is also called a fish cut, but I'm not sure. At any rate, when your arms are at the side, the cut is hidden. So, none of the Steeds are sacks.

Other Steeds that I have have two cuts, the underarm and the front.

If you look at the tongue-in-cheek exchange yesterday in this thread about pattern matching at the breast pocket, you'll see that a front dart makes most patterns nearly impossible to match on all sides with patches or with flaps. So, if want a jacket made from fabric with a strong pattern and you have the stylistic objective of maximizing visible harmony of pattern, you can consider a jacket without a front cut and maybe a one piece back.

Finally, different fabrics respond with varying degrees of cooperation with the iron. Even some that can be shaped successfully, for example, will not keep that shape...especially if subjected to commercial cleaning and pressing. Those cases are good situations to go with darts and even sidebodies if you want shape even if you like your patterns to be in sync.


- B