The Anderson & Sheppard Expatriates Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by voxsartoria, Jun 6, 2008.

  1. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Goon member

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    [​IMG] AF and I are just two sides of the same coin? That explains a lot!

    --Andre


    [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    - B
     


  2. A Y

    A Y Senior member

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    [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    - B


    I kept trying to tell Tom it was OK to walk around the Tenderloin using the N word. He wasn't having any of it.

    --Andre
     


  3. Parker

    Parker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Parker, how do they compare to your Chan jackets?

    Did you see her in NYC?

    Congrats--they're beautiful coats.

    Pics please?

    They're different. Chan's cut seems a little more formal to me. I like them both for different reasons.
    I was in NY a few times this year and it happened to sync up with Mina's schedule.
    I'll try to post a pic. Maybe in another thread to keep this one about A&S.
     


  4. Concordia

    Concordia Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    [​IMG]

    The virtues of drape in the double-breasted model.
     


  5. ljrcustom

    ljrcustom Senior member

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    where can I get that one in my size or is it only done in a bespoke model?

    -LR
     


  6. courty

    courty Senior member

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    It was really great to see Edwin DeBoise and his son Mathew in Boston today...forward fitting for a Lesser Golden Bale DB suit.

    Queuing up? Another Minnis chalkstripe flannel DB in 0315, an Alsport Donegal SB three piece SB suit, and an odd jacket from something in the Porter & Harding Glenroyal book.


    - B


    Minnis 0315 is a great cloth - kind of a denim shade, between navy and air force blue. I am thinking about getting that one and the other two similar 13oz chalkstripes from that book. I also like 0309, which I think is a black ground with slightly narrower stripes.

    I had 0320 made up in a DB a few years ago thinking I would wear it no more than occassionally. I wear it so often, however, that I wish I ordered a second pair of trousers. Its a fairly pale grey chalkstripe that can be dressed up or dressed very well down - especially with a sweater.

    Glenroyal is a great bunch and some of the newer cloths in it are on my short list. I am a big fan of Alsport as well but for Donegals I have always preferred Porter & Harding. Can you post the Alsport and P&H cloths you are having made?
     


  7. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Does Minnis make that same dogtooth flannel in brown, or did you have another cloth in mind?

    There are browns in the Minnis book but not this pattern. Harrisons flannel book has the dogtooth flannel in brown. There are others, will have to look for them.
     


  8. brax

    brax Senior member

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    I saw Edwin and Mathew in Chicago but didn't order anything.

    Whenever you decide to move up to bespoke I have a guy in Chicago that you may want to try.
     


  9. Svenn

    Svenn Senior member

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    I've tried to toil through this entire thread, but could someone tell me if it would it be correct to generalize that Steed tends to make the slimmest, most clean-finished suits of all the A&S tailors (i.e. no dimples or depressions of excessive cloth (drape))?

    Is Steed also the most flexible and accommodating to unique or tedious client requests?

    Finally, am I also correct that of all the tailors in the world, the A&S guys are generally the most focused on armscye and shoulder mobility, with lightly padded shoulders?
     


  10. jeff13007

    jeff13007 Senior member

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    I've tried to toil through this entire thread, but could someone tell me if it would it be correct to generalize that Steed tends to make the slimmest, most clean-finished suits of all the A&S tailors (i.e. no dimples or depressions of excessive cloth (drape))?

    Is Steed also the most flexible and accommodating to unique or tedious client requests?

    Finally, am I also correct that of all the tailors in the world, the A&S guys are generally the most focused on armscye and shoulder mobility, with lightly padded shoulders?


    Cannot answer your first questions because i just ordered my first steed suit last week. But as too your last i would say yes, its between the A&S guys and the people from naples. Mina Adamo from NSM just had me do something short of a tap dance to test out mobility.
     


  11. TRINI

    TRINI Senior member

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    Finally, am I also correct that of all the tailors in the world, the A&S guys are generally the most focused on armscye and shoulder mobility, with lightly padded shoulders?

    What is your focus on armscye and shoulder mobility? Are you a dancer?
     


  12. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Goon member

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    I've tried to toil through this entire thread, but could someone tell me if it would it be correct to generalize that Steed tends to make the slimmest, most clean-finished suits of all the A&S tailors (i.e. no dimples or depressions of excessive cloth (drape))?

    Is Steed also the most flexible and accommodating to unique or tedious client requests?
    Finally, am I also correct that of all the tailors in the world, the A&S guys are generally the most focused on armscye and shoulder mobility, with lightly padded shoulders?


    All of these guys are of a kind. Their basic cut is the A&S cut, the make is the make of A&S-trained tailors or the same outworkers. What differences you might see are probably due more to the differences among clients than among cutters. I believe that ability and quality vary among the A&S family and I cast my vote with my wallet as others do with their choices.

    I suppose my stuff tends toward the cleanest while still draped, and more waisted. But Edwin will happily make you something more sweater-y. I think all these guys can adapt to what you like...how successfully is perhaps another matter. Hitchcock Junior's stuff for Butler, for example, reflect Butler's taste and personality in ways that I hope we all expect as given in a bespoke garment.

    - B
     


  13. Svenn

    Svenn Senior member

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    All of these guys are of a kind. Their basic cut is the A&S cut, the make is the make of A&S-trained tailors or the same outworkers. What differences you might see are probably due more to the differences among clients than among cutters. I believe that ability and quality vary among the A&S family and I cast my vote with my wallet as others do with their choices.

    I suppose my stuff tends toward the cleanest while still draped, and more waisted. But Edwin will happily make you something more sweater-y. I think all these guys can adapt to what you like...how successfully is perhaps another matter. Hitchcock Junior's stuff for Butler, for example, reflect Butler's taste and personality in ways that I hope we all expect as given in a bespoke garment.

    - B


    Thanks vox... it's a tough choice to make- I've seen a few pics and reviews of Stephen's and A&S's suits, here and in the LL, that some have put in the 'disaster' category (baggy and ripples everywhere), yet others saying they're geniuses. The only fault I've seen with Steed is the couple of funky waist suppressions displayed earlier in this thread, that you surmised might have been requested post facto. I guess my ideal would be a Hunstman torso with A&S shoulders [​IMG] and it sounds like Steed might be accustomed to something like that more than the others.

    Anyway, what is the best way for an American to structure fittings with Steed if I can do around a 10 day trip to the UK? Can they squeeze two fittings into that short of time? i.e. I'm wondering if I should do the initial measuring on their US tour, then go to the UK, or the other way around.
     


  14. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Goon member

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    I guess my ideal would be a Hunstman torso with A&S shoulders [​IMG] and it sounds like Steed might be accustomed to something like that more than the others.

    Anyway, what is the best way for an American to structure fittings with Steed if I can do around a 10 day trip to the UK? Can they squeeze two fittings into that short of time? i.e. I'm wondering if I should do the initial measuring on their US tour, then go to the UK, or the other way around.


    [​IMG] Maybe Sexton torso.

    The best person to ask about schedule would be Edwin. I don't think he's ever been this busy, though.


    - B
     


  15. S. Able

    S. Able Senior member

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    Thanks vox... it's a tough choice to make- I've seen a few pics and reviews of Stephen's and A&S's suits, here and in the LL, that some have put in the 'disaster' category (baggy and ripples everywhere), yet others saying they're geniuses. The only fault I've seen with Steed is the couple of funky waist suppressions displayed earlier in this thread, that you surmised might have been requested post facto. I guess my ideal would be a Hunstman torso with A&S shoulders [​IMG] and it sounds like Steed might be accustomed to something like that more than the others.

    Anyway, what is the best way for an American to structure fittings with Steed if I can do around a 10 day trip to the UK? Can they squeeze two fittings into that short of time? i.e. I'm wondering if I should do the initial measuring on their US tour, then go to the UK, or the other way around.


    This is based on my experience from working with Edwin: If you want a jacket with soft shoulders and a starchy clean chest and waist, tell him as much from the outset. The pattern he worked up for me does not provide for a clean chest. Vox's jackets are much leaner and cleaner in the chest than mine (and I think I like his a little more than mine). FWIW, I once asked him if he would cut me a clean-chested jacket. He replied, "sure, but I think you look great in a draped jacket."
     


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