The Anderson & Sheppard Expatriates Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by voxsartoria, Jun 6, 2008.

  1. S. Able

    S. Able Senior member

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    I like it a lot. The shoulders on this jacket seem to be a hair more convex than some of your others. I am not sure why this is the case.
     
  2. holymadness

    holymadness Senior member

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    I'm beginning to think that Vox doesn't actually own any clothes, he just photoshops different ensembles on to pictures he takes of himself. There is no way that silhouette is of clothing on a real human being.
     
  3. ramuman

    ramuman Senior member

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    I'm beginning to think that Vox doesn't actually own any clothes, he just photoshops different ensembles on to pictures he takes of himself. There is no way that silhouette is of clothing on a real human being.

    What I do not understand is how vox's differs so much from monty's.
     
  4. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Goon member

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    I'm beginning to think that Vox doesn't actually own any clothes, he just photoshops different ensembles on to pictures he takes of himself. There is no way that silhouette is of clothing on a real human being.

    When tutee is done and posts his discussion thread on trouser construction and fit, you'll get to see the pants shots from today.

    I know: exciting news.


    - B
     
  5. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Goon member

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    What I do not understand is how vox's differs so much from monty's.

    Does it also perplex you how mafoofan's, whnay.'s, iammatt's, montesquieu's, and Cantabrigian's Rubinacci differ?

    How about David Letterman's and Film Noir Buff's Corvato? Or Marc Grayson's and Manton's Raphael?


    - B
     
  6. S. Able

    S. Able Senior member

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    Vox, do you feel that Edwin extends the shoulders of your jackets beyond your natural shoulders?
     
  7. George

    George Senior member

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    Lasciate ogne speranze voi qu'intrate
    Does it also perplex you how mafoofan's, whnay.'s, iammatt's, montesquieu's, and Cantabrigian's Rubinacci differ? How about David Letterman's and Film Noir Buff's Corvato? Or Marc Grayson's and Manton's Raphael? - B
    Is this a serious question?
     
  8. ramuman

    ramuman Senior member

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    Does it also perplex you how mafoofan's, whnay.'s, iammatt's, montesquieu's, and Cantabrigian's Rubinacci differ? How about David Letterman's and Film Noir Buff's Corvato? Or Marc Grayson's and Manton's Raphael? - B
    I'm fairly easily perplexed. The side effect is that I'm fairly easily enlightened. Kidding aside, I think one of many points in montesquieu's poll thread was how the waist on his Steed pieces differed from yours. To my untrained eyes, this was a bigger (or more apparent) difference than the various differences between the Rubinacci's across the forum regulars, montesquieu inclusive.
     
  9. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Goon member

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    Vox, do you feel that Edwin extends the shoulders of your jackets beyond your natural shoulders?

    Hmmm...I don't think so, not in the way that iammatt's Rubies are, for example, or the padded shoulders typical of more structured jackets from other tailors.

    Interesting question, though.

    - B
     
  10. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Goon member

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    Is this a serious question?

    I'm fairly easily perplexed. The side effect is that I'm fairly easily enlightened .

    [​IMG]

    Kidding aside, I think one of many points in montesquieu's poll thread was how the waist on his Steed pieces differed from yours. To my untrained eyes, this was a bigger (or more apparent) difference than the various differences between the Rubinacci's across the forum regulars, montesquieu inclusive.

    I've noted both in one of Monty's WAYWRN shots and in that thread that his waist is a bit too winched in to my eye. Honestly, if Monty didn't assure us to the contrary, it almost looks like a result when a client asks for more (more!) waist suppression at a late fitting stage...kinda like what happens when you try to winch in a RTW number: nipped at the sides. Compounding this is that he's wearing sweaters under buttoned jackets in a number of the Steed pics.

    Why this happened I have no idea. I don't think of this style as one that fits so close to the body (this used to be the number one peanut gallery complaint about my Steed jackets...that they weren't closely fitted..."too long"..."too big"...before my trouser break became topic du jour), so there should be a bit of ease and roominess to it in my opinion.

    At this point, there are enough undistorted, natural light photographs of my stuff that at least show a considerable degree of shape is possible even with that ease (drape and more) as concurrent design objectives.

    There are all sorts of tradeoffs. I don't claim to understand them all. I'm content to get what I like and hope the same for others.


    - B
     
  11. S. Able

    S. Able Senior member

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    Hmmm...I don't think so, not in the way that iammatt's Rubies are, for example, or the padded shoulders typical of more structured jackets from other tailors.

    Interesting question, though.

    - B


    I was looking at your January 2009 fittings and it looks as if he marked the shoulders to be narrowed. I pretty much had to beg Edwin to make that adjustment at my last fitting. I am not entirely sure about this, but I am guessing that narrowing the shoulders removes some of the swell from the chest. Some of your more recent postings seem to have a slightly leaner chest. Anyways, I think your shoulders look really, really good.
     
  12. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Goon member

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    I was looking at your January 2009 fittings and it looks as if he marked the shoulders to be narrowed. I pretty much had to beg Edwin to make that adjustment at my last fitting. I am not entirely sure about this, but I am guessing that narrowing the shoulders removes some of the swell from the chest. Some of your more recent postings seem to have a slightly leaner chest. Anyways, I think your shoulders look really, really good.

    I don't have a clear recollection of every fitting, but on the ones that I do recall, we've always cut in the shoulders.

    I've always just assumed Edwin prefers to do this rather than discover that he has to extend them.

    - B
     
  13. rickblaine

    rickblaine Active Member

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    [​IMG]

    [photograph clickable for larger version]

    Steed (Edwin DeBoise) bespoke suit in Holland & Sherry 13/14oz fresco (for those of you who care, this is a model with the front cut), done up today with smoked MoP buttons


    - B


    How did you manage to convince Edwin to give you such relatively (for Steed) open quarters. Mine are much more closed despite my insistance on them being more open
     
  14. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Goon member

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    How did you manage to convince Edwin to give you such relatively (for Steed) open quarters. Mine are much more closed despite my insistance on them being more open

    I am very charming.


    - B
     
  15. braised

    braised Senior member

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    How did you manage to convince Edwin to give you such relatively (for Steed) open quarters. Mine are much more closed despite my insistance on them being more open

    Ask at the commission and correct at the fitting. B
     

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