The Anderson & Sheppard Expatriates Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by voxsartoria, Jun 6, 2008.

  1. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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    You're right. It's a S100s. But I never said anything about it being 'run of the mill', unless that was edmorel's attempt at a pun.

    I think the original GB -- this is going way back now -- was S100s. More recently, it can be any yarn number and is often a mixture of more than one, which is why they don't stick a number on it. Also, GB is differentiated at pretty much every stage of the process, not just in terms of micron, but everything -- length, crimp, spinning, dying, weaving, finishing, etc.
     
  2. binge

    binge Senior member

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    Steed (E. DeBoise) bespoke suit in Lesser 11oz worsted Lumb's Golden Bale flannel (for those of you who care, this is the model with the front cut)

    I'd like to see more shape to the lapels. Otherwise, it's very nice.
     
  3. Sterling Gillette

    Sterling Gillette Senior member

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    Vox, the amount of shaping in your SB Steed numbers is breathtaking. In a positive way.
     
  4. Montesquieu

    Montesquieu Senior member

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    [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]

    Suit: Steed by Edwin DeBoise in London Lounge Brisa
    Tie: E.G. Cappelli
    Square: Attolini
    Shirt: Finamore
    Belt: Vass
    Shoes: Vass
     
  5. ramuman

    ramuman Senior member

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    [​IMG] Suit: Steed by Edwin DeBoise in London Lounge Brisa Tie: E.G. Cappelli Square: Attolini Shirt: Finamore Belt: Vass Shoes: Vass
    The waist seems more "cinched" here than in Vox's number before. Is that by design?
     
  6. Slewfoot

    Slewfoot Senior member

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    Suit: Steed by Edwin DeBoise in London Lounge Brisa
    Tie: E.G. Cappelli
    Square: Attolini
    Shirt: Finamore
    Belt: Vass
    Shoes: Vass


    Bam! This is awesome. One of my favorites of yours. How do you find the Brisa wears in terms of coolness and drape? I'm considering the Minnis Fresco 0500 light-medium gray 9oz Fresco since the LL gray Brisa is gone. If you have any idea how they compare I'd love to hear.

    Thanks and keep it up!
     
  7. Concordia

    Concordia Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Brisa is nothing like the lightweight or midweight Minnis. If it has an analogue, it would be the Smith Finmeresco, which is somewhat lighter and suppler than Brisa but still drapes pretty well.
     
  8. Slewfoot

    Slewfoot Senior member

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    Brisa is nothing like the lightweight or midweight Minnis. If it has an analogue, it would be the Smith Finmeresco, which is somewhat lighter and suppler than Brisa but still drapes pretty well.

    Thanks Concordia! The lightweight Minnis Fresco feels like it should work well in the humid/no breeze NYC Summers. It sounds like you think the Fimmeresco could work as well. When I flipped through the book I thought I recalled it feeling a bit heavier like the 10-11oz Minnis Fresco. I'll have to give it another look and see if some are more lightweight than others.
     
  9. Concordia

    Concordia Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    It sounds like you think the Finmeresco could work as well. When I flipped through the book I thought I recalled it feeling a bit heavier like the 10-11oz Minnis Fresco.

    It is a bit heavier (12oz) than the Minnis mid-weight, and much heavier than their light weight. It is therefore not necessarily going to work for NYC summers. Brisa is heavier yet.

    I am especially unoptimistic for my own use of it past May and June, but I tend to run hot.

    Preferable would be the lightest Minnis, as well as Irish linen, some mohair blends, etc.
     
  10. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Goon member

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    Suit: Steed by Edwin DeBoise in London Lounge Brisa
    Tie: E.G. Cappelli
    Square: Attolini
    Shirt: Finamore
    Belt: Vass
    Shoes: Vass


    I dig it, Monty...those Cappellis are beyotches to pull through with a dimple. Vests always look better with pleated pants (although I ignore that for myself.)

    That's my favorite Brisa color...I didn't get it because I'm kinda set with with plain weaves.


    - B
     
  11. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Goon member

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    It is a bit heavier (12oz) than the Minnis mid-weight, and much heavier than their light weight. It is therefore not necessarily going to work for NYC summers. Brisa is heavier yet.

    I am especially unoptimistic for my own use of it past May and June, but I tend to run hot.

    Preferable would be the lightest Minnis, as well as Irish linen, some mohair blends, etc.


    I can do the the 14oz H&S fresco in Boston during the summer. It's a very breezy weave.


    - B
     
  12. A Y

    A Y Senior member

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    Brisa drapes nicely --- it is a pretty heavy weave (15 or 16 ounce IIRC), but doesn't wear heavy at all.

    Nice suit Montesquieu. It looks quintessentially A&S. FWIW, the width of the pants seem more in balance here than in Vox's still very nice GB suit, but it's probably a matter of lighting and perhaps individual fit.

    --Andre
     
  13. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Goon member

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    FWIW, the width of the pants seem more in balance here than in Vox's still very nice GB suit, but it's probably a matter of lighting and perhaps individual fit.

    --Andre


    So cagey. [​IMG]


    - B
     
  14. Slewfoot

    Slewfoot Senior member

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    Concordia - thanks for the information. I didn't realize the Brisa was that heavy. Sounds like the Minnis lightweight gray Fresco is still number one in the running for a solid gray Summer suit. The Scabal business class is another possibility as well, but Patrick at Chan mentioned the Minnis was more comfortable plus it's much cheaper than the Scabal.

    If anyone has any other suggestions on quality hot weather gray suiting material that drapes well and works in hot and muggy environments I'm all ears.
     
  15. Montesquieu

    Montesquieu Senior member

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    The temperature maxed at 70 degree today, my first wearing the mistral. It felt great and seems ideally suited to spring and fall weather. It would be too warm for mid-day summer heat in many places. It could also be worn during the Bay Area winter.
     

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