The Anderson & Sheppard Expatriates Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by voxsartoria, Jun 6, 2008.

  1. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Goon member

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    The quarters of that coat are too closed for Style Forum.

    Are you saying that I should fear deportation to Cutter & Tailor?

    [​IMG]


    - B
     


  2. Concordia

    Concordia Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    The quarters of that coat are too closed for Style Forum.

    Not all of us need uninterrupted access to the zipper. Several members are more patient than that.
     


  3. Ataturk

    Ataturk Senior member

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    [​IMG]

    The cuffs are resting on the shoes already...you can see the tiniest bit of break on the trouser line on the left.

    Contrived? I'm unsure what you mean. It would be contrived for you, but since my habits are largely rooted in the American collegiate/Ivy style background, full breaking trousers would be rather (and literally) alien. There's got to be a bit of boyishness.

    I'll trot this out again: this old G. Bruce Boyer quotation from Eminently Suitable summarizes what I like best:

    "The English writer Arnold Bennett used to say that his tailor advised him that trousers should 'shiver' on the shoe but not break."

    Exactly.

    I'm not wearing suspenders today, so I suspect some imperfection of length will yet creep in from time to time during the day...[​IMG]


    - B


    What about the width of the leg opening? If it's wider the inseam can be quite a bit longer and still have no break; if it's narrow the pants have to be much shorter, something I don't think the "classic" dressers contemplated when advocating no break. Or maybe they did, I don't know.
     


  4. A Y

    A Y Senior member

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    Can you stop doing ticket pockets? They're bugging the heck out of me.

    I think A&S expats seem to put on ticket pockets almost reflexively.

    --Andre
     


  5. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Goon member

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    Not all of us need uninterrupted access to the zipper. Several members are more patient than that.

    [​IMG]

    Not counting the guys who have their stuff done with open quarters (yes, I underlined that), I've concluded that the voyeur/groupthink acclaim of "open" quarters is a figment of the forvm pictorial style. Namely, the standing, square to the camera shot.

    Now, unless your interests lie in extensive, varied and detailed vanity photography, you are mostly going to do this shot and not much else, so it's pervasive.

    Here's one:

    [​IMG]

    Not an expat number; a Mystery Bespoke Tailor™ (MBT™) number. Open-ish quarters...not a bad look standing.

    Here I am in motion, however, in the same cut:

    [​IMG]

    Now, in a more natural mode, where you are not standing in front of a camera, I tend to think that what looks open standing looks a bit too open moving.

    Long and short: I have the [​IMG]-gasket-bursting aesthetic of liking both ways of cutting away the jacket from the buttoning point. But, I also think that it is a situation where liveliness and sobriety of form have their own respective advantages with neither the outright winner in all situations.

    I think that I have something that is an intermediate solution...I expect to like it a lot, but I expect all others to hate it. (Well, maybe except you, since you have good taste....[​IMG] )


    - B
     


  6. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Goon member

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    What about the width of the leg opening? If it's wider the inseam can be quite a bit longer and still have no break; if it's narrow the pants have to be much shorter, something I don't think the "classic" dressers contemplated when advocating no break. Or maybe they did, I don't know.

    Yes, I think that the size at the hem...and whether it has cuffs or not...certainly affects what works as an inseam.

    If cuffed, and if a narrow opening, you might be advised to look for no or minimal break.


    - B
     


  7. George

    George Senior member

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    [​IMG] [click photograph for larger size if you wish] Steed (Edwin DeBoise) SB 3 roll 2.5 bespoke suit in Lesser 9.5/10oz nailhead (for those of you who care, this is a model with the front cut) - B
    Some of your Deboise numbers seem to have more shape than other Deboises. You need to explain this.
     


  8. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Goon member

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    Some of your Deboise numbers seem to have more shape than other Deboises. You need to explain this.

    All of them have a fish cut/underarm dart.

    Then, about half have no front cut or dart, and the other half do. The ones that do are curvier around the torso; the ones that don't have a more cardigan-like, Brooks Brothers #1 sack feel (although they are still waisted compared to a sack.)

    The one today has both darts, as do all of my suits from the last three years or so. I'm sticking with that except for an odd jacket here and there.


    - B
     


  9. George

    George Senior member

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    All of them have a fish cut/underarm dart. Then, about half have no front cut or dart, and the other half do. The ones that do are curvier around the torso; the ones that don't have a more cardigan-like, Brooks Brothers #1 sack feel (although they are still waisted compared to a sack.) The one today has both darts, as do all of my suits from the last three years or so. I'm sticking with that except for an odd jacket here and there. - B
    I've noticed more shape in some than others, Initially I thought it may be a trick of the light, or an effect of pattern and/or colour, but after taking another look at some of your other stuff, I could see that there was definitely something going on with the cut. What caused you to move to a more 'shapely' cut?
     


  10. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Goon member

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    What caused you to move to a more 'shapely' cut?

    Edwin put in a front dark without discussion on one of my suits about four years ago, and I liked the way that it came out.

    - B
     


  11. George

    George Senior member

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    Edwin put in a front dark without discussion on one of my suits about four years ago, and I liked the way that it came out. - B
    I like it, it looks good on you. I personally like to have as much shape in my business suits as my body allows without it looking too feminine, which maybe a bit much for some American tastes. I'm a lot more relaxed about sports coats however, I even allow the tailor to put a little 'drape' (heaven forbid) in the front.
     


  12. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Goon member

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    I like it, it looks good on you.

    Thank you.

    I personally like to have as much shape in my business suits as my body allows without it looking too feminine, which maybe a bit much for some American tastes. I'm a lot more relaxed about sports coats however, I even allow the tailor to put a little 'drape' (heaven forbid) in the front.

    I think that the look of a structured jacket with a clean chest and lots of shape is a fantastic look, very English. I don't think it is me, but I like seeing others wearing it well.

    There are several people who post here who wear things this way, but photographs are few.


    - B
     


  13. George

    George Senior member

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    There are several people who post here who wear things this way, but photographs are few. - B
    Well, I'd consider posting some of my own, but certain members get excited and set about inflicting 'ink rash' all over the pictures. No thanks.
     


  14. RJE

    RJE Senior member

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  15. George

    George Senior member

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