The Anderson & Sheppard Expatriates Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by voxsartoria, Jun 6, 2008.

  1. Eustace Tilley

    Eustace Tilley Senior member

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    Yes. The first one I posted really speaks to me and I hope to have it hanging in my closet by Fall. This is the one I've already had made. I find I'm comfortable in it up to about 20 degrees Celsius (68 Fahrenheit).

    [​IMG]


    Lovely cloth MC!

    yachtie - I'm not familiar with Harrison's Moonbeam - any pics?
     


  2. academe

    academe Senior member

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    I have the jacket in front of me and it's hard to tell. The main part of the check is brown, and as far as I can tell, the thin outline is dark blue, or possibly black. Overall, it's pretty mottled.

    Regardless of the specific colour, I like the organic feel of it....
     


  3. yachtie

    yachtie Senior member

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    Lovely cloth MC!

    yachtie - I'm not familiar with Harrison's Moonbeam - any pics?


    Sorry, Saw it at Chris's Saturday. Didn't bring a camera. IIRC, they're all 10/11 oz 80% lambswool/20% angora [​IMG] : soft handed and a little fuzzy but good gutsy cloths. (jacketing- too soft for trousers)

    Vox-Unless it's Harris, it needn't be handwoven to be a tweed.
     


  4. Eustace Tilley

    Eustace Tilley Senior member

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    Sorry, Saw it at Chris's Saturday. Didn't bring a camera. IIRC, they're all 10/11 oz 80% lambswool/20% angora [​IMG] : soft handed and a little fuzzy but good gutsy cloths. (jacketing- too soft for trousers)

    Vox-Unless it's Harris, it needn't be handwoven to be a tweed.


    So, what did you order? [​IMG]
     


  5. academe

    academe Senior member

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    Sorry, Saw it at Chris's Saturday. Didn't bring a camera. IIRC, they're all 10/11 oz 80% lambswool/20% angora [​IMG] : soft handed and a little fuzzy but good gutsy cloths. (jacketing- too soft for trousers)

    Vox-Unless it's Harris, it needn't be handwoven to be a tweed.


    If you get a chance, do post pics!!!
     


  6. yachtie

    yachtie Senior member

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    So, what did you order? [​IMG]

    Wool/silk/linen SBSC for later in the summer.Also finishing up a suit in H&S Dragonfly.
    I'll get the Harrison's for the fall-I'd roast in it now.
     


  7. Eustace Tilley

    Eustace Tilley Senior member

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    Wool/silk/linen SBSC for later in the summer.Also finishing up a suit in H&S Dragonfly.
    I'll get the Harrison's for the fall-I'd roast in it now.


    Very nice!
     


  8. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Goon member

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    Vox-Unless it's Harris, it needn't be handwoven to be a tweed.

    Rationally and generally, yes.

    For you, when does it stop becoming tweed and starting becoming faux tweed, then?

    - B
     


  9. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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    I am going to take the position that if it is not handspun, or at least handwoven, it's not a tweed but something made up to look like tweed.

    Vox-Unless it's Harris, it needn't be handwoven to be a tweed.

    Rationally and generally, yes.

    For you, when does it stop becoming tweed and starting becoming faux tweed, then?


    Tweed is cloth made of rough woolen yarns frmo Cheviot sheep. I think there is no other simple definition.
     


  10. M. Alden

    M. Alden Active Member

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    The LL tweeds, including the Alden gunclub, are tweeds and not worsteds made to look like tweeds. I suspect the confusion stems from the association of tweed with the hairy, woolly, loosely woven variants from Harris or Shetland. The other style of tweed, known as "border" or "sporting" is equally tweed, a woolen spun Cheviot with a high twist finish that gives it a less hairy look. Examples of these "estate" tweeds can be seen in many border weavers' works and in the once available tweeds from Hunters of Brora.

    Worsteds made to look like tweeds do exist. One of the well known examples is the excellent Glorious Twelfth book from Harrisons. This is a merino wool worsted spun cloth ie one in which the short staple length fibers have been combed out to give a flat and lustrous sheen.

    Sporting tweeds are normally machine woven and this picture from the londonlounge site attests to the fact.

    http://thelondonlounge.net/gl/forum/...hlight=gunclub

    Such machines are required to produce the twist sought for by gentlemen that require a solid, long wearing product. Harris tweed cloth is also made on machines but machines operated manually and are they are consequently more loosely woven. These tweeds make up in charm what they lack in staying power.

    An experienced bespoke customer is normally alert to the use of the word "handmade" and realizes that this appellation can have value if applied to such acts as stitching, sewing, pressing, or carving, engraving, sculpting etc. Using one's hands to run a sewing machine or a manual loom is another thing entirely.

    There are some good Shetland products on the market and the ones from Scabal pictured in this thread deserve particular merit. I too have had my eyes on the gunclub but for the time being I am expecting delivery on a brown herringbone from this book. At the clothclub, we have issued our first Shetland cloth and I had a chance to fit it this week.

    http://thelondonlounge.net/gl/forum/...pic.php?t=7902

    I think our members will be very pleased.

    M Alden
     


  11. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Goon member

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    Tweed is cloth made of rough woolen yarns frmo Cheviot sheep. I think there is no other simple definition.

    The LL tweeds, including the Alden gunclub, are tweeds and not worsteds made to look like tweeds.

    Worsteds made to look like tweeds do exist. One of the well known examples is the excellent Glorious Twelfth book from Harrisons. This is a merino wool worsted spun cloth ie one in which the short staple length fibers have been combed out to give a flat and lustrous sheen.


    M&M: thank you.

    - B
     


  12. yachtie

    yachtie Senior member

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    Rationally and generally, yes.

    For you, when does it stop becoming tweed and starting becoming faux tweed, then?

    - B


    Probably when the yarn size drops to the point where it really starts to feel like worsted suiting. The hand/feel of those is different.
     


  13. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Goon member

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    Pricing

    It's not gentlemanly to discuss pricing, is it?

    So let's do it.

    The three expats price their two piece suits currently as follows:

    DeBoise: £1800

    Mahon: £2000

    Hitchcock: £1895


    - B
     


  14. academe

    academe Senior member

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    Pricing

    It's not gentlemanly to discuss pricing, is it?

    So let's do it.

    The three expats price their two piece suits currently as follows:

    DeBoise: £1800

    Mahon: £2000

    Hitchcock: £1895


    - B


    Hi Vox-

    That's before VAT, correct?
     


  15. ThinkDerm

    ThinkDerm Senior member

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    A&S, and their expats, pride themselves on going straight to a forward fitting. This might be self serving, but it does place a premium on brilliance.

    Are they brilliant? Or are they taking shortcuts? Hard to say...one can only judge from the results.

    But here is one thing in their favor: in the case of all three A&S expats, the guy who talks with you, the guy who measures you, will also be the guy who cuts your cloth and then fits you later on. This is a pretty efficient committee, and can...if the conditions are right...result in straighforward and clear collaboration between maker and client to achieve the objectives on which both agree. That is, in the ideal case.

    Photographs of my most recent set of fittings. One is completely at forward, the other is partially at baste and forward.

    [​IMG][​IMG]

    [​IMG][​IMG]

    I, in fact, just received the finished garments today.

    - B

    Looking forward to seeing the finished garments!
     


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