The Anderson & Sheppard Expatriates Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by voxsartoria, Jun 6, 2008.

  1. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Goon member

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    Vox-

    I love the look of those soft shoulders by the way... Just had a quick question about the fabric of your tweed suit. What weight is it and which textile company? I know you may have mentioned this before but I seem to have missed it...


    Thank you, A. The fabric for the tweed suit is from the LBD/Harrisons from the Porter & Harding Glorious Twelfth book.

    - B
     


  2. academe

    academe Senior member

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    Thank you, A. The fabric for the tweed suit is from the LBD/Harrisons from the Porter & Harding Glorious Twelfth book.

    - B


    Thanks for the tip! Thinking of having a tweed jacket made up, and have been keenly observing the various fabrics other members have used for their tweed coats....
     


  3. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Goon member

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    Thanks for the tip! Thinking of having a tweed jacket made up, and have been keenly observing the various fabrics other members have used for their tweed coats....

    You're welcome. It can be argued pursuasively that the tweeds in the 330 gram book begin to lose some of the inherant goodness of heavier, well, tweedier, tweeds. But, the fabrics in this book make up well, if my sample is any indication, and can be worn further into warmer weather.

    I think that the P&H Glenroyal book, which is 430 grams, is actually more popular for odd jackets. One of the jackets whnay posts in his Rubinacci thread is a Glenroyal, and I think mafoofan is having a Glenroyal made up. You should look at that book, too...I have three Glenroyal swatches sitting in my desk at work, and one of them is bound to be made up as we get into the fall.

    - B
     


  4. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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    Thank you, A. The fabric for the tweed suit is from the LBD/Harrisons from the Porter & Harding Glorious Twelfth book.

    - B


    Do you really consider that tweed? I have always thought of it more as worsted designed to look like tweed, but wear much lighter, rather like Worsted Allsport (which I think this book was designed to compete against).
     


  5. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Goon member

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    Do you really consider that tweed? I have always thought of it more as worsted designed to look like tweed, but wear much lighter, rather like Worsted Allsport (which I think this book was designed to compete against).

    Yeah, you're right. But saying "tweed" is shorter thant saying "worsted designed to look like tweed," even if the former is a stretch and the latter more clinically accurate.

    That LL gun club is not going to give me any tweed street cred, either, because despite the weight, it's not a tweed. I'll make up for my sins at some point.

    Definitely with Glenroyal. Maybe with Breanish.

    - B
     


  6. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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    That LL gun club is not going to give me any tweed street cred, either, because despite the weight, it's not a tweed.

    It's not?
     


  7. academe

    academe Senior member

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    You're welcome. It can be argued pursuasively that the tweeds in the 330 gram book begin to lose some of the inherant goodness of heavier, well, tweedier, tweeds. But, the fabrics in this book make up well, if my sample is any indication, and can be worn further into warmer weather.

    I think that the P&H Glenroyal book, which is 430 grams, is actually more popular for odd jackets. One of the jackets whnay posts in his Rubinacci thread is a Glenroyal, and I think mafoofan is having a Glenroyal made up. You should look at that book, too...I have three Glenroyal swatches sitting in my desk at work, and one of them is bound to be made up as we get into the fall.

    - B


    I'll have to look at both books... I suspect that I may go for a lighter-weight material, such as the 330 g "worsted designed to look like tweed" [​IMG] as I am more likely to wear the jacket indoors. I tend to be a little warm-blooded, and I would be a bit worried about overheating... I'm likely to throw on an overcoat if it gets cool...
     


  8. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Goon member

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    It's not?

    I am going to take the position that if it is not handspun, or at least handwoven, it's not a tweed but something made up to look like tweed.

    [​IMG]

    - B
     


  9. Mildly Consumptive

    Mildly Consumptive Senior member

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    I'll have to look at both books... I suspect that I may go for a lighter-weight material, such as the 330 g "worsted designed to look like tweed" [​IMG] as I am more likely to wear the jacket indoors. I tend to be a little warm-blooded, and I would be a bit worried about overheating... I'm likely to throw on an overcoat if it gets cool...

    Have you looked at the Scabal Shetland book? It's full of fuzzy, authentically tweedy looking designs in 12 oz weight. I have one jacket made from the book, and am planning on at least one more.



    [​IMG]



    [​IMG]



    .
     


  10. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Goon member

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    W. Bill has (or at least, used to have) Donegals of that might be a tad less heavy than the fabrics in the Glenroyal book.

    - B
     


  11. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Goon member

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    Those Shetlands are quite nice, MC.

    - B
     


  12. Mildly Consumptive

    Mildly Consumptive Senior member

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    Those Shetlands are quite nice, MC.

    - B


    Yes. The first one I posted really speaks to me and I hope to have it hanging in my closet by Fall. This is the one I've already had made. I find I'm comfortable in it up to about 20 degrees Celsius (68 Fahrenheit).

    [​IMG]
     


  13. academe

    academe Senior member

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    The Scabals are all very nice, too. The second and third ones really appeal to me, as I'm looking for something with slightly bolder checks with a more plain background. Is the overcheck blue and red in the fabric shown below, or more of an orange and blue? Just wondering since computer colour reproduction isn't always spot on...
    Yes. The first one I posted really speaks to me and I hope to have it hanging in my closet by Fall. This is the one I've already had made. I find I'm comfortable in it up to about 20 degrees Celsius (68 Fahrenheit). [​IMG]
     


  14. Mildly Consumptive

    Mildly Consumptive Senior member

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    The Scabals are all very nice, too. The second and third ones really appeal to me, as I'm looking for something with slightly bolder checks with a more plain background. Is the overcheck blue and red in the fabric shown below, or more of an orange and blue? Just wondering since computer colour reproduction isn't always spot on...

    I have the jacket in front of me and it's hard to tell. The main part of the check is brown, and as far as I can tell, the thin outline is dark blue, or possibly black. Overall, it's pretty mottled.
     


  15. yachtie

    yachtie Senior member

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    Yeah, you're right. But saying "tweed" is shorter thant saying "worsted designed to look like tweed," even if the former is a stretch and the latter more clinically accurate.

    That LL gun club is not going to give me any tweed street cred, either, because despite the weight, it's not a tweed. I'll make up for my sins at some point.

    Definitely with Glenroyal. Maybe with Breanish.
    - B


    Harrison's Mooooooooooooonbeam. [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]

    I've found the perfect cloth for my blue DB sportcoat.
     


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