The Anderson & Sheppard Expatriates Thread

[ericgereghty]

A few Steed examples off of IG. I really don't get how the first one is even allowed to go out, much less featured as an example of work to highlight. The second suffers from the same problem, which is that at the end of the day they seem to have a lot of difficulty in constructing their shoulders to 1) actually fit right, and 2) have a proper shape / silhouette that is actually flattering. The divot on the first picture is totally ridiculous, and the second picture clearly shows a massive difference between the two shoulders... and not in a good way because its bespoke, but in a bad way as in the left shoulder looks longer and drops further and is almost constructed different. I ran into the the same issue on my own commission, among other things. I will say on the positive side, their trouser cuts are really nice. I had an issue with the trouser that they acknowledged was totally wrong on their side, but it wasn't the cut which was beautiful and draped really nicely. But overall, I just think Tom and Steven are - as you say it seems - just technically better than Steed. At the very least, probably more consistent.

View attachment 2228735

View attachment 2228737

As for Henry Poole, others with much more knowledge can chime in on block patterns vs. not, but my understanding is that they are using basically a stock pattern and then adjusting it to your body. In my eyes that's not "true" bespoke as it's not a real custom pattern cut purely for your own body. They are doing this to same time, cost, effort. Perhaps its semantics, but I suspect not... I had a pretty poor fit. It was way too boxy for my build which is much more athletic and v-shaped (I think the block may have been defaulted for older gentlemen perhaps gaining a bit more weight - e.g., meant to accommadate more of a fits-all type), and the shoulders were too wide and had the same weird Simon Crompton fit / divot problem (I don't get why Simon insists it fits well; several knowledgable posters rightly called out the poor fit in the comments):

View attachment 2228739

I did take it back into HP and get them to make a bunch of alterations on it, and the end product ended up being perhaps semi-wearable... but that's not what we are doing here. The shoulders never got as close to being as good as Tom / Steven's. At $5.5K GBP, we need perfection so off to the sale bin it went.

I know I've gone back and forth with Derek about this stuff and what's "acceptable" as a customer when it comes to dealing with tailors, but for the life of me I can't fathom why, one, a tailor would let something like example 1 leave the shop, and, two, why a customer would be in the wrong asking for a redo or refund.

That looks like meh RTW, in my opinion

 

[jonathanS]

Re: redmayne. I really enjoyed this video

 

[fatpauljackson]

Well, this was harsher than I would’ve been. But I can’t exactly argue with you.



It’s very different from the Anderson look.

Looking back, I do think that I was being too harsh. Certainly in the way that I conveyed things. Steed is absolutely capable of producing incredible garments (the below picture is why I wanted to go with them in the first place - it's amazing). And frankly they are great people and have completely treated me right.

Perhaps I should just leave it as they can be very inconsistent. It was frustrating for me, when I know they can produce this:

 

[kylepw]

Looking back, I do think that I was being too harsh. Certainly in the way that I conveyed things. Steed is absolutely capable of producing incredible garments (the below picture is why I wanted to go with them in the first place - it's amazing). And frankly they are great people and have completely treated me right.

Perhaps I should just leave it as they can very inconsistent. It was frustrating for me, when I know they can produce this:

View attachment 2229609

You should certainly contact them about it. They will make it right.

 

[Concordia]

It’s very different from the Anderson look.

Polar opposite, actually. Although Ed DeBoise from Steed spent some time training at Sexton.

 

[jonathanS]

Polar opposite, actually. Although Ed DeBoise from Steed spent some time training at Sexton.

Chittleborough is the same as Anderson & Sheppard? I gotta get my eyes checked.

 

[Concordia]

Chittleborough is the same as Anderson & Sheppard? I gotta get my eyes checked.

Opposite to Anderson.

 

[jonathanS]

Opposite to Anderson.

Oh I misread. We are saying the same thing. I was very confused.

 

[lordsuperb]

 

[kylepw]

Casa Loma?

 

[comrade]

Looking back, I do think that I was being too harsh. Certainly in the way that I conveyed things. Steed is absolutely capable of producing incredible garments (the below picture is why I wanted to go with them in the first place - it's amazing). And frankly they are great people and have completely treated me right.

Perhaps I should just leave it as they can be very inconsistent. It was frustrating for me, when I know they can produce this:

View attachment 2229609

Love the tie. It looks like one of my Sulkas. Is it? If not, where can one get one?

 

[fatpauljackson]

Love the tie. It looks like one of my Sulkas. Is it? If not, where can one get one?

I have no idea, that's not me in the picture. I saw that Steed could do this, and wanted something in the same vein. If my commission had turned out like that, I would have been ecstatic. It did... not.

 

[lordsuperb]

 

[TomHopke]

View attachment 2252475 View attachment 2252477

Nice DB! Who cut this one?

 

[lordsuperb]

Nice DB! Who cut this one?

Steed