The Anderson & Sheppard Expatriates Thread

[lordsuperb]

Too much belly on those lapels.

Which A&S expat will you use or will you take your chances with the mothership?

 

[aristoi bcn]

Which A&S expat will you use or will you take your chances with the mothership?

Difficult to say. I’ve seen good examples from them all. Probably Redmayne as they visit my country.

 

[fatpauljackson]

As a side note, John Hitchcock at A&S had the royal warrant for many years and probably still does. But his son Steven is also making things for the King.

I literally saw the King's suit sitting there waiting for him (or rather, Steven showed me), while I was picking up my own commission at Steven Hitchcock. Pretty cool.

 

[Concordia]

I didn’t see the suit, but HM’s paper pattern was hanging on a hook in the changing room.

 

[jonathanS]

I literally saw the King's suit sitting there waiting for him (or rather, Steven showed me), while I was picking up my own commission at Steven Hitchcock. Pretty cool.

Did you ask if you can put on the jacket?

 

[fatpauljackson]

Did you ask if you can put on the jacket?

Ha! I would not presume... but now that you've put the thought in my mind, who knows for next time...

 

[jonathanS]

Ha! I would not presume... but now that you've put the thought in my mind, who knows for next time...

Oh I would’ve asked and gotten a photo 😂. Now that you mention it, if I’m in London, I’ll stop by Steven’s shop and have a chat. Back when I lived in Washington, I met Steven at a bar (he was holding his trunk show at the hotel). I was thinking about ordering from him, then his prices went up & out of my budget. Oh well! I say that only to say it wouldn’t be entirely random for me to swing by his shop and say hello. And if the kings jacket is there……

 

[fatpauljackson]

Oh I would’ve asked and gotten a photo 😂. Now that you mention it, if I’m in London, I’ll stop by Steven’s shop and have a chat. Back when I lived in Washington, I met Steven at a bar (he was holding his trunk show at the hotel). I was thinking about ordering from him, then his prices went up & out of my budget. Oh well! I say that only to say it wouldn’t be entirely random for me to swing by his shop and say hello. And if the kings jacket is there……

You should, he's a great guy. We chatted for awhile on some of the inner workings of the Row and how it's changed over time.

The King's commission was delivered some time ago now and I believe has been spotted out in the wild! Think I saw some pics of it on him.

 

[jonathanS]

You should, he's a great guy. We chatted for awhile on some of the inner workings of the Row and how it's changed over time.

The King's commission was delivered some time ago now and I believe has been spotted out in the wild! Think I saw some pics of it on him.

Well darn. That’s a shame. Also above, I only added the part about Steven because it wouldn’t be weird for me to randomly stop by if I was in town. I don’t want to encourage random people on styleforum to just randomly stop by his shop and not order.

He’s a very nice guy. Very personable. By all accounts more personable than his father.

 

[fatpauljackson]

Difficult to say. I’ve seen good examples from them all. Probably Redmayne as they visit my country.

My opinion is that Redmayne and Hitchcock are top notch (Hitchcock probably very slightly better but you pay a bit more). I had a bad experience with Steed, with some truly inexplicable basic errors. Though to their full credit, they refunded me without any issue - I do think it was bad enough that it was undeniable. I still think highly of them as people, but it did not work after many many fittings. Hopefully it was an isolated thing, and there are too many people on here happy with them for them to truly suck, but it just did not mesh with my body and their abilities I guess. Steed roulette is a real thing IMO.

I have not used A&S but have heard too many poor things about them (and the rest of the Row, to be fair, as most houses have effectively cashed out / sold out)... at the price point, there is no reason to gamble. Just have Tom Mahon or Steven Hitchcock be your cutter. Is some guy at A&S now really going to be better? I did try Henry Poole and was unimpressed - they cut off a block, unlike the two I mentioned, and the resulting shoulder fit was terrible.

 

[jonathanS]

My opinion is that Redmayne and Hitchcock are top notch (Hitchcock probably very slightly better but you pay a bit more). I had a bad experience with Steed, with some truly inexplicable basic errors. Though to their full credit, they refunded me without any issue - I do think it was bad enough that it was undeniable. I still think highly of them as people, but it did not work after many many fittings. Hopefully it was an isolated thing, and there are too many people on here happy with them for them to truly suck, but it just did not mesh with my body and their abilities I guess. Steed roulette is a real thing IMO.

I have not used A&S but have heard too many poor things about them (and the rest of the Row, to be fair, as most houses have effectively cashed out / sold out)... at the price point, there is no reason to gamble. Just have Tom Mahon or Steven Hitchcock be your cutter. Is some guy at A&S now really going to be better? I did try Henry Poole and was unimpressed - they cut off a block, unlike the two I mentioned, and the resulting shoulder fit was terrible.

I’d agree. Steed seems to get the most internet hype. But, I’d go for redmayne or Hitchcock from the photos I’ve seen. Actually I can’t seem to recall a miss from Steven. Whereas, I’ve seen several misses from steed. Lord super infamously took 11 orders until they got it right. That’s a cool 40-50k in clothing to get the pattern right.

Poole has a lot of misses from photos I’ve seen. I like chittleborough but that’s not an a&s style. Totally different.

 

[comrade]

I realize that this may be a case of "apples and oranges", but I am a
natural shoulder fanatic, so I also like the Neapolitans- I own one
Rubinacci bought from Sartoriale. So, if I decide to go actual bespoke,
who among the Neapolitans are consistent and reliable?

 

[aristoi bcn]

My opinion is that Redmayne and Hitchcock are top notch (Hitchcock probably very slightly better but you pay a bit more). I had a bad experience with Steed, with some truly inexplicable basic errors. Though to their full credit, they refunded me without any issue - I do think it was bad enough that it was undeniable. I still think highly of them as people, but it did not work after many many fittings. Hopefully it was an isolated thing, and there are too many people on here happy with them for them to truly suck, but it just did not mesh with my body and their abilities I guess. Steed roulette is a real thing IMO.

I have not used A&S but have heard too many poor things about them (and the rest of the Row, to be fair, as most houses have effectively cashed out / sold out)... at the price point, there is no reason to gamble. Just have Tom Mahon or Steven Hitchcock be your cutter. Is some guy at A&S now really going to be better? I did try Henry Poole and was unimpressed - they cut off a block, unlike the two I mentioned, and the resulting shoulder fit was terrible.

Thank you for sharing. I like some Steed examples I saw online but didn’t like some others which looked off, either stylistically (not a minor thing) or in terms of fit. A&S’ name is something I’m not inmune to and although they don’t post much of his work online I’ve seen examples I like. The reason why I think I’d try Mahon or Hitchcock is their focus, as it can be seen in their respective online presence, which seem to prove they are highly technical and know what they do. Examples of videos of them both explaining specific pattern tricks are a good example.

I’m however surprised of what you say about Henry Poole. I thought they were still reliable. Is this block pattern thing a tool to save time when cutting or rather intended to streamline a certain house style?

 

[aristoi bcn]

I realize that this may be a case of "apples and oranges", but I am a
natural shoulder fanatic, so I also like the Neapolitans- I own one
Rubinacci bought from Sartoriale. So, if I decide to go actual bespoke,
who among the Neapolitans are consistent and reliable?

Ciro Zizolfi. Based on what I’ve seen and been told. Fwiw, I use Iorio with successful results for me but every piece I get is different (and I have 2 dozen commissions from him). Mimmo Pirozzi and Solito senior are good too, but better if you speak italian.

 

[lordsuperb]

I’d agree. Steed seems to get the most internet hype. But, I’d go for redmayne or Hitchcock from the photos I’ve seen. Actually I can’t seem to recall a miss from Steven. Whereas, I’ve seen several misses from steed. Lord super infamously took 11 orders until they got it right. That’s a cool 40-50k in clothing to get the pattern right.

Poole has a lot of misses from photos I’ve seen. I like chittleborough but that’s not an a&s style. Totally different.

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