The Anderson & Sheppard Expatriates Thread

[lordsuperb]

It came out pretty nice. Hard to find barleycorn at that scale but not tweed. Escorial is really nice. Similar to Lamlana/Phoenix.


I gave it back Edwin to fix right sleeve so can’t say for sure. I suspect it’s just the angle.

It looks like you did normal pick stitching as well. Do you remember the swatch code? It would be nice to compare against the w bill Shetland sample I have.

 

[Mr. Six]

It looks like you did normal pick stitching as well. Do you remember the swatch code? It would be nice to compare against the w bill Shetland sample I have.

I didn’t ask for anything unusual in terms of stitching. I don’t have the number, but it’s in the Standeven San Lorenzo book. Matthew will know it. I can also send you the swatch I have if you want.

Beautiful coat. What was up with the sleeve?

Thanks!
It needed some rotation and maybe a little re-shaping. You can see a bit of a divot and wrinkling compares to the left sleeve.

 

[rjkabk]

I didn’t ask for anything unusual in terms of stitching. I don’t have the number, but it’s in the Standeven San Lorenzo book. Matthew will know it. I can also send you the swatch I have if you want.


Thanks!
It needed some rotation and maybe a little re-shaping. You can see a bit of a divot and wrinkling compares to the left sleeve.
View attachment 1807161

The jacket looks great of course. I really like the shirt. Do you mind me asking where you get your shirts made?

 

[bdavro23]

So good! View attachment 1806978

This jacket looks great and I love the cloth. This comment is more general in nature, but this is an example so It seemed fitting: Whats the point of the extra button/ button hole on this jacket? I really enjoy a 3/2, or rather a 3 roll 2.5, but am confused by jackets that appear to be straight forward 2 button numbers with an extra button hole.

Opinions being what they are, I guess I just dont get it and the extra button hole seems a bit off putting to me. I know a lot of people love this style, so I realize I may be in the minority, but I would always prefer a nice, springy roll to the lapel there.

In any event, shoulders and fit look great and that cloth is superb. Enjoy!

 

[sugarbutch]

This jacket looks great and I love the cloth. This comment is more general in nature, but this is an example so It seemed fitting: Whats the point of the extra button/ button hole on this jacket? I really enjoy a 3/2, or rather a 3 roll 2.5, but am confused by jackets that appear to be straight forward 2 button numbers with an extra button hole.

Opinions being what they are, I guess I just dont get it and the extra button hole seems a bit off putting to me. I know a lot of people love this style, so I realize I may be in the minority, but I would always prefer a nice, springy roll to the lapel there.

In any event, shoulders and fit look great and that cloth is superb. Enjoy!

Would you support my position that jackets should include only functional buttons/buttonholes?

 

[Mr. Six]

The jacket looks great of course. I really like the shirt. Do you mind me asking where you get your shirts made?

Thanks! Just about all of my shirts are from G Inglese via No Man Walks Alone. I have a MTM pattern based off of their standard one.

This jacket looks great and I love the cloth. This comment is more general in nature, but this is an example so It seemed fitting: Whats the point of the extra button/ button hole on this jacket? I really enjoy a 3/2, or rather a 3 roll 2.5, but am confused by jackets that appear to be straight forward 2 button numbers with an extra button hole.

Opinions being what they are, I guess I just dont get it and the extra button hole seems a bit off putting to me. I know a lot of people love this style, so I realize I may be in the minority, but I would always prefer a nice, springy roll to the lapel there.

In any event, shoulders and fit look great and that cloth is superb. Enjoy!

Thanks! Speaking generally, I think one thing to consider is that you're talking about one of the most 3D elements of a jacket based off of 2D photos. I honestly don't remember how visible the roll of that jacket is when it's buttoned, but I know that there's a ton of roll when it's unbuttoned because I kept admiring it on its hangar.

Doing a mental inventory of my jackets that are supposed to be 3r2, the amount of roll when a jacket is buttoned varies a lot. I find the roll to be much more regularly visible when a jacket is unbuttoned.

I personally like the top buttonhole, even if the lapel line is fairly flat when buttoned. I think it provides a little visual break so that the lapel line doesn't look too monotonous. I also like looking at a nice hand sewn buttonhole when I'm sitting in a long meeting or just thinking. I should get to enjoy my clothes a little.

Would you support my position that jackets should include only functional buttons/buttonholes?

So only one button jackets, no buttons on the sleeves, and no lapel buttonhole?

 

[sugarbutch]

So only one button jackets, no buttons on the sleeves, and no lapel buttonhole?

I would go for a single, functional sleeve button. I would also be willing to consider the boutonniere a function for the lapel buttonhole, but could also go for eliminating it.

 

[bdavro23]

Would you support my position that jackets should include only functional buttons/buttonholes?

Umm, no. But I could get close. I could go for one button jackets, but the MTM system I use wont give me the same lapel shape that I want if I do that. I also like two sleeve buttons with a little space between. I could definitely do one button for suits, but I am making a lot fewer of those these days.

On the other hand, I am a modern man and I support the position that you can hold whatever position you want

 

[lordsuperb]

This jacket looks great and I love the cloth. This comment is more general in nature, but this is an example so It seemed fitting: Whats the point of the extra button/ button hole on this jacket? I really enjoy a 3/2, or rather a 3 roll 2.5, but am confused by jackets that appear to be straight forward 2 button numbers with an extra button hole.

Opinions being what they are, I guess I just dont get it and the extra button hole seems a bit off putting to me. I know a lot of people love this style, so I realize I may be in the minority, but I would always prefer a nice, springy roll to the lapel there.

In any event, shoulders and fit look great and that cloth is superb. Enjoy!

Thanks! Just about all of my shirts are from G Inglese via No Man Walks Alone. I have a MTM pattern based off of their standard one.


Thanks! Speaking generally, I think one thing to consider is that you're talking about one of the most 3D elements of a jacket based off of 2D photos. I honestly don't remember how visible the roll of that jacket is when it's buttoned, but I know that there's a ton of roll when it's unbuttoned because I kept admiring it on its hangar.

Doing a mental inventory of my jackets that are supposed to be 3r2, the amount of roll when a jacket is buttoned varies a lot. I find the roll to be much more regularly visible when a jacket is unbuttoned.

I personally like the top buttonhole, even if the lapel line is fairly flat when buttoned. I think it provides a little visual break so that the lapel line doesn't look too monotonous. I also like looking at a nice hand sewn buttonhole when I'm sitting in a long meeting or just thinking. I should get to enjoy my clothes a little.


So only one button jackets, no buttons on the sleeves, and no lapel buttonhole?

I actually prefer the look of the hard 2 buttoning point with an added button hole on the lapel. It gives the coat an old school type of vibe. I would ask for every sport coat to look like the Escorial jacket moving forward!

 

[Crispyj]

I think I am getting the normal 2 button holes in the front. Don't recall what was decided for the number of sleeve button holes.

 

[classicalthunde]

I actually prefer the look of the hard 2 buttoning point with an added button hole on the lapel. It gives the coat an old school type of vibe. I would ask for every sport coat to look like the Escorial jacket moving forward!

Exactly, it reminds me of old school American trad detail on a shaped English drape jacket. Same goes for the 2-button cuff spaced 1-inch apart.

Other than the American style details, I do think the top button hole on the 3r2 offers a nice counter balance to the unbuttoned bottom hole

 

[kylepw]

@Mr. Six 's jacket looks great. But as mentioned about the roll looking flat when buttoned, I personally prefer a simple two button on Steed jackets. Can't go wrong with almost any option (within reason) though.

 

[9thsymph]

re functional buttons:

As a Chicagoan - no matter where the lapel rolls on a three-button jacket, in bad weather, with the collar flipped up, ALL buttons are functional regardless of how the lapels are cut. And that’s how I deal with all my 3-roll 2s. Even the ones where the 3rd button is well above the roll - bad weather: flip and button. No such thing as non-functional.

 

[lordsuperb]

I think I am getting the normal 2 button holes in the front. Don't recall what was decided for the number of sleeve button holes.

3 open patch pockets jackets = 1 or 2 button sleeves

everything else = 3 or 4 button sleeves

 

[Crispyj]

3 open patch pockets jackets = 1 or 2 button sleeves

everything else = 3 or 4 button sleeves

I confirmed with Matthew it's 4, very British traditional I'd say, with flap pockets.