The Anderson & Sheppard Expatriates Thread

[classicalthunde]

@Mark from Plano i know it’s always hard to tell from photos, but did you ask for a cleaner chest/less drape? Or did you pretty much go with the house style?

 

[Mark from Plano]

No. I tend to leave that sort of thing to the tailor’s discretion. My input was limited to picking the cloth, lining and buttons and the fact that I wanted 3 patch pockets. Beyond that I let Edwin do his thing.

At this fitting, I pointed out one tiny issue below the right arm which he will address by dropping the arm hole very slightly.

There’s probably more drape than is apparent in this photo. I’m no expert, but the chest is pretty full to my eye.

 

[lordsuperb]

@Mark from Plano i know it’s always hard to tell from photos, but did you ask for a cleaner chest/less drape? Or did you pretty much go with the house style?

No. I tend to leave that sort of thing to the tailor’s discretion. My input was limited to picking the cloth, lining and buttons and the fact that I wanted 3 patch pockets. Beyond that I let Edwin do his thing.

At this fitting, I pointed out one tiny issue below the right arm which he will address by dropping the arm hole very slightly.

There’s probably more drape than is apparent in this photo. I’m no expert, but the chest is pretty full to my eye.

They've toned things down over the years. When I first started viewing this thread back in 2009 the nipping in the waist and skirt flare for the jackets were overly exaggerated. Even my first suit had the skirt flare and the overly nipped waist. I've worked with them over the years to bring things in on the chest, waist, and skirt flare for my jackets. I wonder if other customers asked them to do this as well?

 

[classicalthunde]

I will be getting my first bespoke jacket from Redmayne. I like my Redmayne MTM coats but they were always meant to be utilitarian. While they are soft and comfortable, they don't quite have the "romance" of the bespoke A&S style and I've been quite captured by that recently.

I think I've been very much inspired by Tom's own bespoke jackets as well as Daniel Day-Lewis' Anderson and Sheppard coats in The Phantom Thread.

I had a swatch of this Moonbeam fabric. Tom seems to feel that this is the one to go with. View attachment 1632567
After looking for this fabric online I found this photo of a WW Chan jacket as a reference for how it makes up. I think it will be a very cozy versatile sweater like fabric.

View attachment 1632568

And styling wise it will likely look like this example from Stephen Hitchcock.Incidentally, the second fabric option I was weighing was a high-twist mesh which is what this jacket is made of.

View attachment 1632569

Just to follow up on this @corpseposeur have you received your bespoke Redmayne yet? if so, how does it compare to Redmayne's MTM offering?

 

[Krish the Fish]

I’ve got my second fitting for my first 4 bespoke pieces by Steven Hitchcock this weekend. Very excited. I don’t really have any experience on what to expect, so I am going to leave myself in his capable hands. I like his soft British style, and think it works well with my 6’1” frame so I think we’ll have something great coming together!

 

[nmprisons]

@Krish the Fish jumped right in with 4 orders? Steven must love you!

 

[Krish the Fish]

@Krish the Fish jumped right in with 4 orders? Steven must love you!

It was initially 2 suits and a sport coat, but added on a tuxedo because the timeline worked out. I can’t imagine he’s upset with me though

 

[lordsuperb]

It was initially 2 suits and a sport coat, but added on a tuxedo because the timeline worked out. I can’t imagine he’s upset with me though

Post some pictures when you get a chance.

 

[Krish the Fish]

Post some pictures when you get a chance.

I’ll try. 4 pieces getting fit in an hour might be a quick squeeze though so no promises. But as of now my wife was planning to go with me to the fitting so I at least will have a second set of hands (and eyes) for photos

 

[corpseposeur]

Just to follow up on this @corpseposeur have you received your bespoke Redmayne yet? if so, how does it compare to Redmayne's MTM offering?

I did have a basted fitting last November with Tom and Claire visited New York. He had a good idea of my measurements from the MTM he's made me.

I will say that Redmayne's MTM jacket is close to their bespoke in that it has a comparably softer make than other factory made jackets. The fit is quite superlative and better than some of the bespoke jackets I have.

The bespoke is on another level as far as the construction goes. Likely because of the handmade nature, it is super soft and feels like a sweater. I also think details like the lapel shape and smaller armhole are tighter and more graceful because of the bespoke make. There's a "roundness" to it if that makes any sense.

Some Italian makers like the Liverano overcoat that have similar soft quality for their RTW...but I think that's likely because it is handmade as well.

I'm hoping to receive my bespoke jacket soon and I'll share some thoughts then.

 

[willyto]

I think this video from Kirby is a must see. I enjoyed it very much:

 

[classicalthunde]

I did have a basted fitting last November with Tom and Claire visited New York. He had a good idea of my measurements from the MTM he's made me.

I will say that Redmayne's MTM jacket is close to their bespoke in that it has a comparably softer make than other factory made jackets. The fit is quite superlative and better than some of the bespoke jackets I have.

The bespoke is on another level as far as the construction goes. Likely because of the handmade nature, it is super soft and feels like a sweater. I also think details like the lapel shape and smaller armhole are tighter and more graceful because of the bespoke make. There's a "roundness" to it if that makes any sense.

Some Italian makers like the Liverano overcoat that have similar soft quality for their RTW...but I think that's likely because it is handmade as well.

I'm hoping to receive my bespoke jacket soon and I'll share some thoughts then.

thanks for the update!

 

[jimney]

Had a fitting with Steed today on a jacket / pants combo. Cloth is from the London Lounge back and they happened to have a length of it around.

 

[lordsuperb]

Had a fitting with Steed today on a jacket / pants combo. Cloth is from the London Lounge back and they happened to have a length of it around.

View attachment 1744191

Style details on the jacket?

 

[jimney]

Style details on the jacket?

Pretty middle of the road details - two button, dual vent, notched lapels a bit on the wider side with some belly. Slanted side pockets. I'm doing the single-piece back that Steed does. I'd actually be curious if there's any reason most tailors don't do single piece backs.