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The Anderson & Sheppard Expatriates Thread

dieworkwear

Mahatma Jawndi
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If 100 Steed garments were put in a room and a certain percentage were MTM and the remaining percentage bespoke, I wonder how many people here would accurately identify which were MTM and which were bespoke. While I intellectually know the differences between the two programs, I'm not confident that I would get a high percentage of these right.
 

krudsma

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@dieworkwear I was re-reading this piece because I've been considering the same cloth for my first Steed commission:


How much use have you gotten out of it? What do you find yourself wearing with it?
 

dieworkwear

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@dieworkwear I was re-reading this piece because I've been considering the same cloth for my first Steed commission:


How much use have you gotten out of it? What do you find yourself wearing with it?
I ended up not wearing that one very much. The color is a bit too yellow and I've found that, over time, I have much more conservative taste. That pattern has a soft spot in my heart because I closely associate it with George Frazier, a writer I admire. But I get so much more use out of other tweeds.

Unfortunately, it seems that Molloy & Sons no longer sells it, but I bought a length of dark brown Donegal cloth from them many years ago. I think that's my most versatile tweed. Donegal has flecks that add interest to an outfit, but at the same time, you don't have to coordinate pattern scales since it's not technically a patterned sport coat.
 

comrade

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If 100 Steed garments were put in a room and a certain percentage were MTM and the remaining percentage bespoke, I wonder how many people here would accurately identify which were MTM and which were bespoke. While I intellectually know the differences between the two programs, I'm not confident that I would get a high percentage of these right.
Based on the website photos, unless they've recently changed, the MTM jackets have
relatively squarish built-upshoulders compared with the Bespoke:



Of course, it is possible that one can specify a true natural shoulder in the MTM
might be doable within the limitations of MTM patterns.
 
Last edited:

MrFingers

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A little story about my first MTM project with Steed:

Upon arrival I was greeted by Edwin and Matthew, the younger son was at the back. From what I read, he’s learning the business and handling the marketing at the moment. He was quiet the whole time. Edwin and Matthew are both very humble and down to earth. Which was somewhat surprising as in my head, I had this idea that these people meet with high leaders all the time. But it wasn’t the case. In fact, while they talked to me about other clients such as Vox, some other bitcoin millionaires and what have you.. you could tell they didn’t care who they were or what they did, they cared about their craft. Both gentlemen were very gentle and helpful while explaining the process to me.

I had decided to go MTM (400 EUR) 2 weeks ago because that’s when I learned about their trunk shows and services. If I had known a few months prior. I probably would’ve saved up for their bespoke (1100+ EUR) service. But with understanding the limitations of what I wanted, I still went for it. MTM has multiple restrictions in comparison to bespoke. Such as it’s not cut by Steed or made by them. They simply measure you and send the info to a Polish factory. The factory has its own pattern already, so they just plug in the numbers. However, the key detail is that Edwin is measuring you. Finding a competent tailor to measure is a challenge on its own. So, to have Edwin do it was a huge relief. (Interjecting here quickly to say that I tried another MTM service with Collaro and it wasn’t good at all, probably my fault though).

Prior to this, I was very explicit with what I wanted. I emailed Steed and said, “This is Vox, give me Vox” and they explained the limitations to MTM and whatnot. So, I adjusted my expectations. It was at that time that I realized I didn’t care to have a fishtail back, or perfectly drawn in pleats. I wanted pants to fit me properly. I took multiple pictures of me and wrote on them what didn’t work for me and sent them to them. Matthew then replied saying if I brought those, we would have a good foundation to start with. So, I did. I actually wore a different looser pair while I had said pants in a bag, and they said the ones I was wearing fit better, so I kept those on while they measured me. Took about 40 measurements I believe, half of them made no sense to me, pure bespoke wizardly. This, among others, was the thing that made me fall in love with the process.

Here’s something really cool that I thought was really smart. I was wearing a OCBD and a RTW Sportcoat. They went ahead and measured everything. In case I wanted to try MTM shirt or sportcoat, I wouldn’t have to wait for them to come back in 4 months. I can just call them up and say “Hey, I want a shirt in this fabric please my coworkers are bullying me for not being Vox enough!” and in 4-5 weeks I would have it shipped to me. In fact, that same day I was going to go to suitsupply to have a pattern made because my neck is smaller than my chest and shoulders so I can’t fit properly into RTW shirts. Their price was I believe 160-180 EUR for the MTM shirt which basically cost the same as SS so I decided to just wait a bit and will likely order it with them soon. (The price includes the fabric).

The process goes like this: You go in, pick the fabric, get measured, make conversation and try to guess Vox’s identity with their hints, fail miserably, answer questions about what details you want, pay, and leave for brunch.

I actually was very overwhelmed by the huge selection of fabrics on the table, so I chose to get measured while I talked about my environment and asked for suggestions. I knew I wanted it to be fresco, but I wanted to hear what they had to say. They basically agreed upon my comment (though they showed me another new mill that felt smoother, I wanted to be safe, however). So, it ended up being a 3 ply 300g mid-gray fresco I believe. Details were high rise, buttons for braces, no back pockets, no break, double forward pleats. Pretty straightforward.

The process itself took maybe 30 minutes with them explaining the whole process. But the appointment lasted an hour, so naturally, we started to talk about fast food chains and ranked them. Turns out Matthew quite likes in-n-out, I personally told them shake shack was better, which Edwin seemed to agree with. The other fella said he liked FiveGuys as well, strong contender, he will run the business well. Spoke about where I’m from (classified), dancing, weather in Europe, interesting clients, and things they like to do when they travel for these trunk shows. Like I said before, very humble people that clearly, just enjoy the fact they get to experience life while they meet clients across the world. For me, this felt magical because my grandmother used to make clothes for a living back in the 70s. Because of this, I’ve always had a strong connection to clothing. And finding CM felt like a gold mine (that takes your money instead). So, the meeting felt very natural and at home. Because of this, I have nothing but respect for these guys.

*INTERJECTING AGAIN* Do you know how cool it is to watch the movie Kingsman in high school and then actually commission something from some of these guys (I know it’s Huntsman, not Steed) now that I’m working? It felt like a dream come true, pure euphoria.

With all this being said, I won’t receive the project for about a month. I will come back here and update this post with pictures and details. I will meet them again in June to either commission something else or have them see the product and make alterations to it. Hope you all enjoyed the read, please let me know if you have any questions, I tried to be as comprehensive as I could.

-R
 

9thsymph

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@dieworkwear I was re-reading this piece because I've been considering the same cloth for my first Steed commission:


How much use have you gotten out of it? What do you find yourself wearing with it?
Pardon my unsolicited reply, but I have a bespoke jacket from Steed in the same cloth and love it - wear it a lot. I get dieworkwear’s point about the “yellow” but I still find the jacket quite versatile...

3086133E-7EDD-4ECD-AAF5-B90AB679FE7C.jpeg
012EDD79-F5D1-418B-9F63-0F8534662679.jpeg
E68E605F-DF72-4487-81AC-874F19434560.jpeg
 

dieworkwear

Mahatma Jawndi
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Pardon my unsolicited reply, but I have a bespoke jacket from Steed in the same cloth and love it - wear it a lot. I get dieworkwear’s point about the “yellow” but I still find the jacket quite versatile...

View attachment 1738600 View attachment 1738601 View attachment 1738602
I've found that it goes ok with certain shades of dark brown pants. There's more harmony that way, as you get the echo between the tan in the jacket (however yellow it may be) and the brown in the pants.

Requires the right shade of dark brown. Not all my dark brown trousers work.
 

9thsymph

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I've found that it goes ok with certain shades of dark brown pants. There's more harmony that way, as you get the echo between the tan in the jacket (however yellow it may be) and the brown in the pants.

Requires the right shade of dark brown. Not all my dark brown trousers work.
Right...when I first ordered it, I figured I'd wear it with creams and light greys, but it didn't really work out. Instead, it works well with browns (as you point out), darker greys and even blues (works really well with jeans for me...). In other words, it's more of a northern-lights jacket than I had supposed, but works really well if you are able to pull off that look...
 

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