The Anderson & Sheppard Expatriates Thread

[sugarbutch]

They wouldn't remake the coat to fix the lapels?

 

[Mark from Plano]

My experience with Steed is that they’ll make it right no matter what it takes.

 

[mrdXCIII]

I hope you are all well.

Please forgive me but I need some help with the following;

I would like to add a double-breasted vintage A&S style suit to my rotation; think Day-Lewis in Phantom Thread (see below).

My other suits have all been OTR or MTM, and I am not cultured in the world of bespoke as yet.

Following this thread and it is apparent that I have a lot to learn.

My budget is probably limited to MTM at this time and I am unsure as to whether the product at Steed or Redmayne would be able to produce what I am looking for.

It may be the case that I am better off delaying and going bespoke.

I appreciate that there are inherent limitations with using MTM as opposed to bespoke and I am willing to accept some compromises in terms of overall cut/fit/finishing, as long as the 'spirit' of the suit is there i.e. lots of drape and softness.

Please do let me know what you would recommend and if my expectation of Steed/Redmayne MTM would be unrealistic!

Best,
Raphael

 

[dieworkwear]

I hope you are all well.

Please forgive me but I need some help with the following;

I would like to add a double-breasted vintage A&S style suit to my rotation; think Day-Lewis in Phantom Thread (see below).

My other suits have all been OTR or MTM, and I am not cultured in the world of bespoke as yet.

Following this thread and it is apparent that I have a lot to learn.

My budget is probably limited to MTM at this time and I am unsure as to whether the product at Steed or Redmayne would be able to produce what I am looking for.

It may be the case that I am better off delaying and going bespoke.

I appreciate that there are inherent limitations with using MTM as opposed to bespoke and I am willing to accept some compromises in terms of overall cut/fit/finishing, as long as the 'spirit' of the suit is there i.e. lots of drape and softness.

Please do let me know what you would recommend and if my expectation of Steed/Redmayne MTM would be unrealistic!

View attachment 1678339

Best,
Raphael

If you're deadset on that look, I would save up for bespoke.

Steed's MTM isn't really a "lower priced version" of their bespoke product. It is cut and made differently, not just in terms of the number of fittings, but the overall process. Edwin, the cutter at Steed, found a Polish factory that has a pattern that he likes. He feels the pattern fits in well with his house style, so he partnered with them. As far as I know, this is not a pattern he drafted; it's the factory's pattern.

The advantage of going with Steed for MTM is that you're measured by a bespoke tailor. Any alterations necessary after delivery are then done in-house by Steed's own tailors. He can also advise you on what needs to be changed (not all MTM operations are run by people who can do this competently).

But it's otherwise a different product. Steed's drape cut is a result of the cutting and making. They put the chest piece on a bias to give the chest some fullness and "roundness." Of all the tailors I've used, no one has given me the same type of silhouette. What you're seeing in DDL's suit above is an extended shoulder line and a very full, rounded chest. That's a result of the cutting and making process, which I haven't seen from the Polish product. I don't think either is better or worse; they are just slightly different silhouettes.

I don't know if Mahon offers MTM. I know he does bespoke. As you prob know, he recently left English Cut and is now at Redmayne. He has a long history with the A&S cut. I personally think he approximates that older and more "authentic" A&S look better than modern-day A&S. But I don't know if him switching to Redmayne has changed his access to certain tailors, and whether this affects the final product.

@A Y is a client of Mahon and likes his work. When Mahon was at English Cut, I saw some of his work in person and thought it looked nice. I believe AY Is getting something from Mahon's bespoke service soon and can probably say whether the product is similar to Mahon's English Cut product.

If you're deadset on that DDL silhouette, I would save up for bespoke. Not because bespoke is inherently better or involves more fittings, but because I think the bespoke silhouette approximates that DDL look better. I don't think the cutting, construction, making, etc is the same in MTM.

 

[mrdXCIII]

If you're deadset on that look, I would save up for bespoke.

Steed's MTM isn't really a "lower priced version" of their bespoke product. It is cut and made differently, not just in terms of the number of fittings, but the overall process. Edwin, the cutter at Steed, found a Polish factory that has a pattern that he likes. He feels the pattern fits in well with his house style, so he partnered with them. As far as I know, this is not a pattern he drafted; it's the factory's pattern.

The advantage of going with Steed for MTM is that you're measured by a bespoke tailor. Any alterations necessary after delivery are then done in-house by Steed's own tailors. He can also advise you on what needs to be changed (not all MTM operations are run by people who can do this competently).

But it's otherwise a different product. Steed's drape cut is a result of the cutting and making. They put the chest piece on a bias to give the chest some fullness and "roundness." Of all the tailors I've used, no one has given me the same type of silhouette. What you're seeing in DDL's suit above is an extended shoulder line and a very full, rounded chest. That's a result of the cutting and making process, which I haven't seen from the Polish product. I don't think either is better or worse; they are just slightly different silhouettes.

I don't know if Mahon offers MTM. I know he does bespoke. As you prob know, he recently left English Cut and is now at Redmayne. He has a long history with the A&S cut. I personally think he approximates that older and more "authentic" A&S look better than modern-day A&S. But I don't know if him switching to Redmayne has changed his access to certain tailors, and whether this affects the final product.

@A Y is a client of Mahon and likes his work. When Mahon was at English Cut, I saw some of his work in person and thought it looked nice. I believe AY Is getting something from Mahon's bespoke service soon and can probably say whether the product is similar to Mahon's English Cut product.

If you're deadset on that DDL silhouette, I would save up for bespoke. Not because bespoke is inherently better or involves more fittings, but because I think the bespoke silhouette approximates that DDL look better. I don't think the cutting, construction, making, etc is the same in MTM.

Thank you for your advice.

I'll speak with Steed to see if they are able to show me some DB examples of their MTM. It could be the case that the silhouette is still to my liking albeit not what I had in mind at first.

I have checked online and Redmayne are offering MTM using a pattern that Mahon drew up.

I had hoped I could show the aforementioned tailors the image of the DDL suit and discussed what adjustments could be made to develop the same character.

It looks like it will probably have to be bespoke!

P.S. Your blog is absolutely fantastic. I can't express my appreciation for your work enough!

 

[Crispyj]

I found a slight work around for Steed.
Bespoke jacket and MTM pants.Save £600.
What do you guys think?

 

[dieworkwear]

Thank you for your advice.

I'll speak with Steed to see if they are able to show me some DB examples of their MTM. It could be the case that the silhouette is still to my liking albeit not what I had in mind at first.

I have checked online and Redmayne are offering MTM using a pattern that Mahon drew up.

I had hoped I could show the aforementioned tailors the image of the DDL suit and discussed what adjustments could be made to develop the same character.

It looks like it will probably have to be bespoke!

P.S. Your blog is absolutely fantastic. I can't express my appreciation for your work enough!

FWIW, here are some examples of Steed's double-breasted made through their bespoke program. I think these photos give a good approximation of how their house DB style looks, assuming you have a similar build.

 

[classicalthunde]

I have checked online and Redmayne are offering MTM using a pattern that Mahon drew up.

Redmayne has a half step between classic MTM and full bespoke, which is basically MTM with and intermittent basted fitting and some hand finishing in the shop.

I did this with my Hemrajani suit and was pleased with the outcome. I feel like this approach helps with the vast majority of fit problems and acts as a hedge against an errant input…although it might not remedy the differences in silhouette/house style that some have pointed out.

Don’t have the budget for Steed/Redmayne bespoke at the moment, but would love to give it a whirl! Have a length of tweed set aside for it one of these days!!

 

[Mr. Six]

I found a slight work around for Steed.
Bespoke jacket and MTM pants.Save £600.
What do you guys think?

Because people love the cut of the jackets so much, I think Steed's bespoke trousers don't get enough attention. They're exceptional. But £600 is nothing to sneeze at.

One thing to talk with them about if you want to do this is the risk of variation in the fabric. I think the factory might buy separately from Steed itself, in which case the jacket and pants could be made with pieces from two different bolts. You should just check with Edwin and Matthew about it.

 

[Crispyj]

Because people love the cut of the jackets so much, I think Steed's bespoke trousers don't get enough attention. They're exceptional. But £600 is nothing to sneeze at.

One thing to talk with them about if you want to do this is the risk of variation in the fabric. I think the factory might buy separately from Steed itself, in which case the jacket and pants could be made with pieces from two different bolts. You should just check with Edwin and Matthew about it.

Yes, I will contact Edwin and Matthew about it. Might just get a bespoke jacket in the end though because jacket and trousers are what I wear most ?

 

[lordsuperb]

I found a slight work around for Steed.
Bespoke jacket and MTM pants.Save £600.
What do you guys think?

I believe Will from A Suitable Wardrobe took this approach when ordering separates. Bespoke jacket and mtm trousers from English cut. When ordering a suit he went full bespoke.

 

[Crispyj]

I believe Will from A Suitable Wardrobe took this approach when ordering separates. Bespoke jacket and mtm trousers from English cut. When ordering a suit he went full bespoke.

Guess I'll get a funny look if I say I want a suit and do bespoke jacket MTM pants ?

 

[Mark from Plano]

I don’t know why. I’m doing an MTM tuxedo with a bespoke waistcoat from the same cloth. Matthew didn’t bat an eye.

 

[dieworkwear]

A lot of the work that goes into a bespoke coat is at the front -- the pad stitching, the curvature on the lapels, etc. Get the front of your jacket made bespoke, and the back MTM.

 

[Texasmade]

Like a mullet. Business in the front and party in the back.