The Anderson & Sheppard Expatriates Thread

[Mark from Plano]

Anyone can share their experience with Steed semi-bespoke? I signed up for an appointment in November. Excited for my first British tailoring.

I’ve done both. I did a couple of pieces in full bespoke first. As @lordsuperb says, they are something special. My last commission was a 3 piece MTM. I’m very happy with the way it turned out. Edwin works in the measurements from the bespoke pattern into the MTM/semi-bespoke.

I recently commissioned a new tuxedo with them and went for the MTM option.

I will say that your choices of detail are more limited on MTM. Linings, for example, are more limited. On bespoke pieces, your styling choices are only limited by your imagination. On MTM you have a menu of choices.

For my tuxedo I wanted to order their “Astaire” model waistcoat. That isn’t available except in bespoke, so I had Matthew order an extra length of fabric so that I can bespeak the waistcoat I want to go with the MTM tuxedo.

They are also working to increase options in the MTM line. Before, you could only get straight lapels, for example. This time I was able to order a bit of belly. Matthew said he really likes how they come out, and I trust him.

I like the value proposition of their MTM but I think it makes sense to get your pattern down first through bespoke.

JMHO.

 

[Crispyj]

I’ve done both. I did a couple of pieces in full bespoke first. As @lordsuperb says, they are something special. My last commission was a 3 piece MTM. I’m very happy with the way it turned out. Edwin works in the measurements from the bespoke pattern into the MTM/semi-bespoke.

I recently commissioned a new tuxedo with them and went for the MTM option.

I will say that your choices of detail are more limited on MTM. Linings, for example, are more limited. On bespoke pieces, your styling choices are only limited by your imagination. On MTM you have a menu of choices.

For my tuxedo I wanted to order their “Astaire” model waistcoat. That isn’t available except in bespoke, so I had Matthew order an extra length of fabric so that I can bespeak the waistcoat I want to go with the MTM tuxedo.

I like the value proposition of their MTM but I think it makes sense to get your pattern down first through bespoke.

JMHO.

I'm not looking to go crazy with the details for my first British tailoring, also I am quite an easy fit. Seems to me there are enough options (wider lapels, softer shoulders) that are available for the current MTM. So keeping budget in mind, will try MTM to get a taste first.

Thanks for everyone's input!

 

[Mark from Plano]

I'm not looking to go crazy with the details for my first British tailoring, also I am quite an easy fit. Seems to me there are enough options (wider lapels, softer shoulders) that are available for the current MTM. So keeping budget in mind, will try MTM to get a taste first.

Thanks for everyone's input!

Definitely pay the £150 surcharge for the floating canvas.

 

[TheShetlandSweater]

Chicago is in the Midwest. It's a much less flashy place than other places where you'll commonly see trunk show. Texas, NY, Miami, LA, SF, and even DC--these are places where it's more acceptable to care about clothes and, with the exception of DC, to stand out.

 

[Mr. Six]

So MTM is not worth considering?

There’s enough stylistic difference that you could choose on that basis. Take a look at samples while you’re there.

Having now done both, if full bespoke works for your budget, I think the lordsuperb is correct. I like my semi-bespoke stuff a lot. Their full bespoke is just more enjoyable.

That said, the MTM has a distinctive look and is a good way to build up some pieces. It's a pretty flexible program, and I think it's produced good results for the other people I've seen use it.

 

[A Y]

Chicago is in the Midwest. It's a much less flashy place than other places where you'll commonly see trunk show. Texas, NY, Miami, LA, SF, and even DC--these are places where it's more acceptable to care about clothes and, with the exception of DC, to stand out.

I don't think this is true. I was running around Chicago in a bespoke 3-piece in Minnis 0656 that Tom Mahon made for me, and a bright orange Begg scarf, and didn't really feel out of place or that I stood out more. I have sometimes felt more self-conscious in LA and SF because it is more casual in both places.

 

[bourbonbasted]

MTM is never as good as proper bespoke and Steed is no exception.

In my experience, their MTM construction is much lighter (particularly through the shoulders) and "flatter" (way less life and dimension to the garments). It doesn't feel cheap, obviously, but it also doesn't "hug" the wearer like a typical A&S drape cut does/should. The fit is also obviously less spot-on than you'd get with a custom cut pattern and fitting, but I'm less of a stickler on CMs and MMs.

Steed MTM is a great option if you're on a budget (IIRC, their MTM prices are about 1/3 of their full-pull bespoke) or want an introduction to how the guys do business. If you're a regular bespoke customer (either with them or another tailor) I'd advise against it.

 

[Crispyj]

MTM is never as good as proper bespoke and Steed is no exception.

In my experience, their MTM construction is much lighter (particularly through the shoulders) and "flatter" (way less life and dimension to the garments). It doesn't feel cheap, obviously, but it also doesn't "hug" the wearer like a typical A&S drape cut does/should. The fit is also obviously less spot-on than you'd get with a custom cut pattern and fitting, but I'm less of a stickler on CMs and MMs.

Steed MTM is a great option if you're on a budget (IIRC, their MTM prices are about 1/3 of their full-pull bespoke) or want an introduction to how the guys do business. If you're a regular bespoke customer (either with them or another tailor) I'd advise against it.

Yes I am just looking to get into British tailoring so I thought MTM Steed would be a great value since fabric is included (1400gbp vs 3700gbp). Deciding fabric from Draper's Three Kings bunch or maybe just good ol' Ascot 4ply.

 

[bourbonbasted]

Yes I am just looking to get into British tailoring so I thought MTM Steed would be a great value since fabric is included (1400gbp vs 3700gbp). Deciding fabric from Draper's Three Kings bunch or maybe just good ol' Ascot 4ply.

My MTM suit from Steed is an inky blue deadstock 50/50 linen/wool by Zegna that I bought from Ed (Quality Seller!). They did right by a more exotic, lightweight cloth so I presume either of those options would come out great.

 

[FlyingHorker]

MTM is never as good as proper bespoke and Steed is no exception.

In my experience, their MTM construction is much lighter (particularly through the shoulders) and "flatter" (way less life and dimension to the garments). It doesn't feel cheap, obviously, but it also doesn't "hug" the wearer like a typical A&S drape cut does/should. The fit is also obviously less spot-on than you'd get with a custom cut pattern and fitting, but I'm less of a stickler on CMs and MMs.

Steed MTM is a great option if you're on a budget (IIRC, their MTM prices are about 1/3 of their full-pull bespoke) or want an introduction to how the guys do business. If you're a regular bespoke customer (either with them or another tailor) I'd advise against it.

I was reading the opposite, no?

MTM is more structured in the shoulders, and Steed's cut feel like you're "floating" in the suit? Bespoke is softer overall?

 

[TheShetlandSweater]

I don't think this is true. I was running around Chicago in a bespoke 3-piece in Minnis 0656 that Tom Mahon made for me, and a bright orange Begg scarf, and didn't really feel out of place or that I stood out more. I have sometimes felt more self-conscious in LA and SF because it is more casual in both places.

I can't speak to how you feel. Though I would agree that Chicago is more formal than LA or SF, I also think it is more aesthetically modest on average. Why else, in your view, might there be such a dearth of menswear options in America's third largest city?

 

[bourbonbasted]

I was reading the opposite, no?

MTM is more structured in the shoulders, and Steed's cut feel like you're "floating" in the suit? Bespoke is softer overall?

I went with an unpadded shoulder and their lightest construction. In honesty, it doesn't really look much like their house cut at all, so perhaps that's the difference. That said, their bespoke jackets feel exactly as you describe, so I'll follow your impressions. Suffice it to say, bespoke feels (and looks) much, much better.

 

[FlyingHorker]

I went with an unpadded shoulder and their lightest construction. In honesty, it doesn't really look much like their house cut at all, so perhaps that's the difference. That said, their bespoke jackets feel exactly as you describe, so I'll follow your impressions. Suffice it to say, bespoke feels (and looks) much, much better.

In terms of personal impressions, I have no idea man. I'm going off of posts I read here and pictures. Bespoke Steed has a unique "floating on top" feel from some posts I read.

This is good to know for the future though.

 

[Mark from Plano]

It really should go without saying that MTM is not bespoke. My bespoke pieces from them are show stoppers. But not everyone has an unlimited budget and I’ve found the Steed MTM product very acceptable and a good value for the price.

I do agree with the comments that the MTM is not entirely reflective of their house style. No real drape to speak of. So it does worry me a bit that the OP keeps referring to this as his “introduction to English tailoring”. I’m not sure it’s that. Maybe it is. Depends on what you mean, I suppose.

But I am fond of my Steed MTM suit and chose it for my new tuxedo…budget and my prior good experience certainly being considerations.

 

[A Y]

I can't speak to how you feel. Though I would agree that Chicago is more formal than LA or SF, I also think it is more aesthetically modest on average. Why else, in your view, might there be such a dearth of menswear options in America's third largest city?

I don't know, but there are probably a lot of things affecting the lack of menswear shopping in Chicago.