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The Anderson & Sheppard Expatriates Thread

corpseposeur

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I will be getting my first bespoke jacket from Redmayne. I like my Redmayne MTM coats but they were always meant to be utilitarian. While they are soft and comfortable, they don't quite have the "romance" of the bespoke A&S style and I've been quite captured by that recently.

I think I've been very much inspired by Tom's own bespoke jackets as well as Daniel Day-Lewis' Anderson and Sheppard coats in The Phantom Thread.

I had a swatch of this Moonbeam fabric. Tom seems to feel that this is the one to go with.
Screen Shot 2021-06-25 at 12.30.10 AM.png

After looking for this fabric online I found this photo of a WW Chan jacket as a reference for how it makes up. I think it will be a very cozy versatile sweater like fabric.

wwchan-moonbeam.jpg


And styling wise it will likely look like this example from Stephen Hitchcock.Incidentally, the second fabric option I was weighing was a high-twist mesh which is what this jacket is made of.

s-hitchcock-mockleno.jpg
 
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classicalthunde

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I will be getting my first bespoke jacket from Redmayne. I like my Redmayne MTM coats but they were always meant to be utilitarian. While they are soft and comfortable, they don't quite have the "romance" of the bespoke A&S style and I've been quite captured by that recently.

I think I've been very much inspired by Tom's own bespoke jackets as well as Daniel Day-Lewis' Anderson and Sheppard coats in The Phantom Thread.
damn, now you got me over here thinking Moonbeam instead of Fox Bros hopsack for a non-blazer navy sport coat.

Seeing that you've done both Steed and Redmayne MTM and that you're in NYC with a lot of traveling tailor options (Hitchcock included), would you mind sharing your thought process in choosing Redmayne over the other available options?

I have this jacket in Moonbeam from Steed that has become one of my favorites.
Would you mind commenting on how Moonbeam wears compared to a standard wool hospack? I take it you're in Texas...is it something that you can wear throughout a good chunk of the year?
 

Mark from Plano

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Would you mind commenting on how Moonbeam wears compared to a standard wool hospack? I take it you're in Texas...is it something that you can wear throughout a good chunk of the year?
It’s definitely a spring/fall/winter fabric. I initially came in asking for tweed and Matthew guided me to this. I just love the fit and feel of it so much that sometimes I push the boundaries a bit.

I wore it yesterday, although to be honest I should put it away until September or so. For me it’s comfortable enough if temperatures are below 90F. YMMV.
 

corpseposeur

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damn, now you got me over here thinking Moonbeam instead of Fox Bros hopsack for a non-blazer navy sport coat.

Seeing that you've done both Steed and Redmayne MTM and that you're in NYC with a lot of traveling tailor options (Hitchcock included), would you mind sharing your thought process in choosing Redmayne over the other available options?
Good question. I was going back and forth between two similar but different tailors: Vestrucci which is based in NYC and Redmayne's. And yes Steed and Hitchcock are options when it comes to soft tailoring.

Vestrucci are really great and would be a lot easier since they're local to me in NY. Initially I was considering a summer linen coat which I think Italian tailors tend to do better than English tailor since they use less structure. But after some thought their silhouette is a bit more dramatic, especially the lapels and I wanted something a bit more understated.I may come back around at some point but after doing the math Redmayne's bespoke and Vestrucci's MTM are comparable in pricing.

As far as going with Tom over the other soft tailors. It's a matter of familiarity than anything else. He's gotten my MTM jackets done very well over the pandemic and he has enough of my measurements for a first fitting whenever travel to the US starts back up. I also like his particular bespoke style. I'm not sure what the technical aspects are, but his lapels flow very nicely, there's drape but it's a bit neater at the armholes. Also, I feel Tom already knows me and what I do and how I will use the garments so I think I'll really just let him do his thing without nitpicking, which is probably the best way for bespoke.

I like soft tailoring for jackets but I prefer a more structured look for suits so if I was having a suit made, Kent & Haste are always on the top of my list. Meyer and Mortimer and Whitcomb & Shaftesbury are also options I consider.

I enjoy his social media updates and Redmayne's been very good about service and answering questions. Some other tailors I've contacted have not been as communicative or as attentive.

That particular Moonbeam fabric has an open weave--almost like a knit than a hopsack. I like it because it's a bit more casual so I can wear it with open collar shirts and sweaters and pair with dress pants and cotton pants as well. I don't really like the t-shirt and jacket look myself, but it could do that as well.

I'm hoping it would be comfortable in warm weather but I've also come to the conclusion that in 80F+ heat and humidity, I'm just going to abstain from a jacket altogether.
 
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TexasDan

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I have a Moonbeam navy jacket from Steed and really love the fabric. As Mark mentioned, it is an ideal fabric for the drape. I have worn mine into early June but don’t have plans to wear again until temps get back to low 80s.
 

undertheskin

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I want to share with you my first commission from James Whitfield. Fabric is the LL navy blazer thus not purple :)
Most propably I won't get good fit pics anytime soon so I hope the IG pics give a good impression of his work for now.

24F8E96D-3883-49D3-B11D-9988F4D64838.jpeg

A7F206D4-6A9D-4BF3-9754-5058893FA3E5.jpeg
 

nmprisons

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Got an email yesterday from Steed with October travel dates:

Dallas, The Adolphus Hotel - Monday, 4th October 2021

Houston, The Granduca Hotel - Wednesday, 6th October

Los Angeles, The Beverly Wilshere Hotel - Friday, 8th October

San Francisco, The Mark Hopkins Hotel - Sunday, 10th October & Monday, 11th October

Chicago, Sonder Grant Park Apartment - Wednesday, 13th Oct

Washington DC, The Hay Adams Hotel - Friday, 15th October

New York City, The Kimberly Hotel - Monday, 18th Tuesday, 19th & Wednesday, 20th October

Boston, The Boston Hotel Commonwealth - Friday, 22nd October
 

dieworkwear

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Got an email yesterday from Steed with October travel dates:

Dallas, The Adolphus Hotel - Monday, 4th October 2021

Houston, The Granduca Hotel - Wednesday, 6th October

Los Angeles, The Beverly Wilshere Hotel - Friday, 8th October

San Francisco, The Mark Hopkins Hotel - Sunday, 10th October & Monday, 11th October

Chicago, Sonder Grant Park Apartment - Wednesday, 13th Oct

Washington DC, The Hay Adams Hotel - Friday, 15th October

New York City, The Kimberly Hotel - Monday, 18th Tuesday, 19th & Wednesday, 20th October

Boston, The Boston Hotel Commonwealth - Friday, 22nd October
I received that as well, along with an email from Edward Sexton about September/ October travel dates. But as far as I know, the borders are still closed to Europeans, no?

Perhaps they're banking on things changing by October?
 

sugarbutch

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The restrictions are on travel directly from Europe. If they're willing to invest the time in an extended layover in a non-restricted country, they can enter:

 

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