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The Anderson & Sheppard Expatriates Thread

dieworkwear

Mahatma Jawndi
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Hm, I just checked my Steed and A&S coats and they don't have that full undersleeve Tom is talking about in that video. My A&S coat was cut by Hall. Don't know if that makes a difference.

Does anyone here have that on an A&S or A&S expat coat?
 

aristoi bcn

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Hm, I just checked my Steed and A&S coats and they don't have that full undersleeve Tom is talking about in that video. My A&S coat was cut by Hall. Don't know if that makes a difference.

Does anyone here have that on an A&S or A&S expat coat?
I will check my thrifted A&S coat when at home. Does yours have straight closed quarters or it is cut in the newer style with more open/cut away quarters?
 

9thsymph

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Awesome videos!

Interesting to see the older A&S stuff handled and bunched up and such by Tom. It would seem the jackets in the vids are quite a bit softer than the stuff Steed has made for me over the years (granted I mainly have heavy-ish tweeds, so...). I'm not sure if what I have is Steed's default construction, or something Edwin has done to "build up" my boney square shoulders, etc. I have never specified, but my stuff is certainly more structured than the A&S/TM jackets in the videos...

I hope they [Steed] are able to return to the US in the not-too-distant future, as I would really like to order some jackets specified toward the softer, more sloping end of their spectrum...I love what they have made for me up to this point, but it would be fun to add even more variety...
 

nmprisons

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I hope they [Steed] are able to return to the US in the not-too-distant future, as I would really like to order some jackets specified toward the softer, more sloping end of their spectrum...I love what they have made for me up to this point, but it would be fun to add even more variety...
I couldn't wait any longer and had a successful zoom-based commission from Steed. You might give it a try.
 

dieworkwear

Mahatma Jawndi
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I think my range of movement is limited to reaching for Hot Cheetos and typing, so I'm comfortable in a drape cut with a clean sleeve. But I'm curious how that fuller undersleeve feels.
 

Texasmade

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Interesting videos on drape cuts and how it's made on the pattern. I always thought the drape cut came through the chest and not also through the under sleeve. When Mahon talks about modern tailoring and people preferring a cleaner look, I'm definitely in that camp. Not like I need a lot of arm movement in my tailored clothing since I just wear to the office mainly.
 

dieworkwear

Mahatma Jawndi
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Interesting videos on drape cuts and how it's made on the pattern. I always thought the drape cut came through the chest and not also through the under sleeve. When Mahon talks about modern tailoring and people preferring a cleaner look, I'm definitely in that camp. Not like I need a lot of arm movement in my tailored clothing since I just wear to the office mainly.
For me, the drape cut is more about the look. I do find my drape cut coats to be more comfortable. But aside from movement, I like how the excess cloth and bit of swelling at the chest give the coat a certain silhouette. Kind of moob-y, but maybe also athletic. Something very romantic about it. At least for me, as I love those old photos of A&S suits.
 

A Y

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I love those Mahon coats especially the earliest one he made for the client from 1994, and the DB blazer. I haven't check the undersleeves of the coats he made for me in the middle naughts yet, but I do know their silhouettes changed a bit from coat to coat. My first DB suit had the big drapey chest you can see in the peak lapel SB, but later ones became more relaxed and then kind of settled into an in-between shape. If I could commission a new coat from him today, I'd ask for the 90s A&S cut he was showing: I didn't realize until watching this video how much personality his coats have compared to some of the more staid houses.
 

moddey

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it was 2 in the morning when Derek asked about A&S and expat A&S undersleeves...being lately a terrible insomniac I got up and checked my coats from both (cut by Hitchcock and someone who was there much earlier)...but the armpits are all pretty clean :oops:
 

dieworkwear

Mahatma Jawndi
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Maybe A&S and A&S expats sized us all up and realized we don't move much.
 

Texasmade

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Maybe A&S and A&S expats sized us all up and realized we don't move much.
A&S/A&S expats- what do you plan to use this suit/jacket for?
everyone here- wear to work and post on Styleforum comparing undersleeve drape of our coats
 

Nobilis Animus

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My A&S does have a fair amount of sleeve fullness, also a good inch and a half drape in the back.

I wouldn't say it's the only way to achieve a similar comfort in movement, but it's definitely a lovely coat.
 

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