- Jul 22, 2010
- Reaction score
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A few notes on the suit, for whatever they're worth. I asked for the classic house cut and I think that's precisely what I got: extended shoulders; good drape and swelling through the chest; a reasonable amount of waist suppression; strong, bellied lapels (something like 3.75").
I similarly asked for a "classic," fuller cut trouser; we discussed something in the 18.5-19" circumference at the ankle if I recall correctly though I haven't actually measured. Trousers have double forward pleats and are cut for suspenders (w/ side tabs). Fairly high rise.
The coat is quite roomy and comfortable even though it still strikes what I at least hope is a pretty flattering silhouette. The back of the coat needs a bit of cleanup below the collar (very square shoulders) and the left sleeve is very, very slightly twisted when I hang my arms at my sides as you can see if you look closely in the above pictures. The trousers drape very nicely though I think I will have them lengthened a touch; I think at the fitting they weren't cranked quite as high on my waist as I generally wear them.
The cloth is a sturdy hopsack, and I think it has great versatility in terms of color and texture. My only complaint about it so far is that, like Minnis Fresco, it has an extraordinary tendency to pick up bits of lint, crumbs, and so on. Will give the coat a try as a separate 'blazer' substitute; I think it might just work.
Edit to note a technical point much discussed in the earlier days of this thread: the coat’s side seam stops short of the armhole, so I guess it doesn’t technically have a side body? Not entirely sure of the precise terminology. It also has a dart under the lapel on each side, which I think has to do with helping the front drape cleanly over my chest, which is a problem area on lots of otr stuff for me.
Oo, good question. Assuming you're talking about the hip pockets on the trousers -- on seam vs. slanted? I honestly don't recall either way and I'm on the road so can't check right now. I *think* I just said "whatever you'd usually do" (as I did with many of the minor style details) but will try to remember to check when I have a chance! I don't think there was any of the funky A&S slanted seam business or anything but I'm not sure either way.Just came across your post. A beautiful suit indeed. As to the trousers, what kind of pockets did you get in combination with the double forward pleats?
Patch pockets and will it be ready for summer?