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The Anderson & Sheppard Expatriates Thread

dieworkwear

Mahatma Jawndi
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Yes, I do (the trim part of your question, not the boxy part). To start with, the fronts are all darted, which helps a lot. And as I said in my reply above, they further accentuate the shape by encouraging you to nip in the waist. Such an improvement over the formless suits I used to wear, when I was clueless about the way a suit should fit. Thanks to their cut and suggestions, I now look like I'm wearing an elegant suit and not a formless sack.
I've only ordered one sport coat, but the chest was surprisingly not very drapey. The coat was also a bit short, had some balance and sleeve pitch issues (which, I was disappointed to have to point out myself at the final fitting). And the shoulders were a little squared off. The coat didn't have that rounded, drapey silhouette I've seen in old A&S photos (and from my interactions with him, Colin seems to still wear in his suits).

I don't mind the nipped waist, but I was surprised by the clean chest and slightly squared off shoulders. Ended up getting my final fitting adjustments done elsewhere, so maybe the sleeve pitch and balance issues are unfair critiques, but I don't think the overall silhouette would have changed.
 

aristoi bcn

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I've only ordered one sport coat, but the chest was surprisingly not very drapey. The coat was also a bit short, had some balance and sleeve pitch issues (which, I was disappointed to have to point out myself at the final fitting). And the shoulders were a little squared off. The coat didn't have that rounded, drapey silhouette I've seen in old A&S photos (and from my interactions with him, Colin seems to still wear in his suits).

I don't mind the nipped waist, but I was surprised by the clean chest and slightly squared off shoulders. Ended up getting my final fitting adjustments done elsewhere, so maybe the sleeve pitch and balance issues are unfair critiques, but I don't think the overall silhouette would have changed.
This seems to have been a really bad experience.

Do you mind sharing pictures of the piece at some point?
 

jcmeyer

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No basted fitting...but curious how right they can get from just 1 meeting of measurement.
@IChen They got pretty close for me with just measurements. They did alterations on finished garments to adjust the things that needed changes and then incorporated those into the pattern that they have for me. I've seen them get very close for two others using just measurements.
Didn't know this thread existed but since the Steed MTM program was brought up, I figured I'd drop a few pieces for reference. The blue jacket was first and needed two rounds of revision, but they noted everything well and the brown jacket fit this way right out of the box. The flannel trousers in the picture with the blue jacket are also Steed MTM.



 

classicalthunde

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Didn't know this thread existed but since the Steed MTM program was brought up, I figured I'd drop a few pieces for reference. The blue jacket was first and needed two rounds of revision, but they noted everything well and the brown jacket fit this way right out of the box. The flannel trousers in the picture with the blue jacket are also Steed MTM.



Those look awesome! If you dont mind me asking: what size lapels did you go with on these jackets? Were these half or full canvas? At the low or high price point of steeds MTM program?
 

comrade

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Those look awesome! If you dont mind me asking: what size lapels did you go with on these jackets? Were these half or full canvas? At the low or high price point of steeds MTM program?
 
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comrade

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I like the cut of the shoulder-
very Ivy League. But the jackets,
IMHO could be longer with more
taper in the waist. Also, the thighs of
the trousers seem a bit full. How much
did the jacket(s) cost?
 

Concordia

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I like the cut of the shoulder-
very Ivy League. But the jackets,
IMHO could be longer with more
taper in the waist. Also, the thighs of
the trousers seem a bit full.
Perhaps one of the style differences between Steed and others. Ed is a very good tailor, but has probably never had to worry about concealing his own girth or trying to make himself look taller.

I don't know if that accounts for all the differences between his work and that of, say, the Hitchcock family, but I wouldn't be surprised if it has influenced his eye to some degree.
 

Butler

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Perhaps one of the style differences between Steed and others. Ed is a very good tailor, but has probably never had to worry about concealing his own girth or trying to make himself look taller.

I don't know if that accounts for all the differences between his work and that of, say, the Hitchcock family, but I wouldn't be surprised if it has influenced his eye to some degree.
Interesting observation
 

jcmeyer

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Those look awesome! If you dont mind me asking: what size lapels did you go with on these jackets? Were these half or full canvas? At the low or high price point of steeds MTM program?
I had to measure the lapels to see -- they're 3.5" -- but when Ed took measurements I just told him I wanted them to sit about halfway across to the shoulder.

The blue is full canvas, the brown is half. Those are the two choices and the full canvas was I think 950 pounds (~$1,250) and the brown was 750 pounds (~$1,000).

I like the cut of the shoulder-
very Ivy League. But the jackets,
IMHO could be longer with more
taper in the waist. Also, the thighs of
the trousers seem a bit full. How much
did the jacket(s) cost?
Agree on the length of the blue; I think Ed set the length based on my height rather than my build, which is always a bit of a trade-off for me, since doing it that way means it won't hit the trouser fork. Brown was adjusted to be longer, and I think it's good where it is.

Waists are comfortable and have a good shape, not sure if the pics are deceiving but I wouldn't want them in any further.

Trousers are definitely full in the thighs -- but so am I :embar: I think there's maybe a small allowance that could be brought in, but as others have mentioned Ed does seem to prefer fuller trousers in general. I'm hesitant on another pair of MTM trousers based on what may or many not be possible to do with MTM the pattern, but overall I think they're pretty good. They have better balance/shape than the pair I'm wearing with the brown jacket.

Anyway, the blue donegal being a bit short ended making it a more reasonable choice in casual/denim fits, so I'm cool with that.

Thanks for the feedback!

 

Andy57

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Perhaps one of the style differences between Steed and others. Ed is a very good tailor, but has probably never had to worry about concealing his own girth or trying to make himself look taller.

I don't know if that accounts for all the differences between his work and that of, say, the Hitchcock family, but I wouldn't be surprised if it has influenced his eye to some degree.
I agree with @Butler, that is an most interesting observation. For what it's worth, the trousers that Steven Hitchcock made me recently (I think actually made by Celia, but I'm not entirely sure) are the best trousers I've ever had, bar none.
 

jdp234

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Perhaps one of the style differences between Steed and others. Ed is a very good tailor, but has probably never had to worry about concealing his own girth or trying to make himself look taller.

I don't know if that accounts for all the differences between his work and that of, say, the Hitchcock family, but I wouldn't be surprised if it has influenced his eye to some degree.
Agree this is an interesting observation, though I'll note that there are plenty of pics on e.g. Steed's instagram showing what I perceive as quite flattering suits on larger guys. (Of course, there's a selection effect problem there.)

What do folks think of as the core differences between Steed and S. Hitchcock? I haven't seen S. Hitchcock's work in person. But I perceive several differences based on photos. Hitchcock jackets--at least so far as I can tell--have a cleaner, less drapey chest, squarer shoulders, and straighter lapels. (He also seems to strongly favor SB peak lapel configurations for his own suits, though I'm not sure if he advises clients in that direction). I could see all of that adding up to a more flattering look for a rounder or shorter person, I suppose. Would love to hear @Andy57 or others with experience with both companies chime in.

I agree with @Butler, that is an most interesting observation. For what it's worth, the trousers that Steven Hitchcock made me recently (I think actually made by Celia, but I'm not entirely sure) are the best trousers I've ever had, bar none.
Interested in any thoughts you have on why.
 

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