Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by voxsartoria, Jun 6, 2008.
Thanks for the insight.
As a fellow customer who had placed an order pre-administration, I called and was told largely the same things but in more general terms. I was actually surprised that Paul was the one who answered the phone given the "key staff" language. I was reassured by that, along with the fact that some A&S expats are being brought in.
I am a heavier, large chested guy...do you think the A&S/drape cut would accentuate that (I can be self conscious of it sometimes) or make the suit more comfortable to wear?
I am pretty set on getting a a MTM suit/tux for my upcoming wedding and flirting with the idea of a Steed MTM option. I love those slightly curved peak lapels and the soft shoulders...but dont know how the chest will work out and dont know if there are any other A&S/drape style suits in my area that i could try on to get an idea (I'd hate to waste a half hour of Matt or Edwins time on an appointment and then not get something...)
Depends on what your calendar is. Steven Hitchcock has, I think, started to come to Philly (or DC, anyway). No MTM, but otherwise very much worth a look. You'll notice from his website that he is not tall and stringy, and somehow he looks good in his suits.
One thing to be aware of-- just because a jacket has a little more room on the back and chest doesn't mean it will accentuate your size. There are a lot more details that will create the illusion of elegance when put in the correct context. If anything, it is a badly-executed clean front that will make it obvious how close you are to bursting out of your clothes.
Thanks! @Concordia ! Do you know if Steven Hitchcock does MTM? I'm pretty firmly within the $1,000-$1,400 price point...
What are the differences between Steed and Hitchcock in terms of cut? I know both are ex A&S cutters but somehow the jackets from Hitchcock look trimmer to me.
I have found that to be true, but for clients built like Ed, that may be a useless distinction. Steed jackets have most of the external quirks of A&S, although they feel very different to put on and wear. If a Steed DB makes me think that the two panels in front are enormous and that my decolletage might spill over the top out of carelessness, the A&S jackets make me wonder how I'm ever going to fit into this tiny sports bra in the first place. This in spite of having more or less identical measurements.
Steven Hitchcock is obviously drinking from the same well, but tends to chase a more conventional SR shape, with taper down to the waist. He sometimes does more roping around the armscyes, which can be quite tight. This makes the shoulders look a little squarer and built-out, even if they are quite soft.
Oddly enough, A&S makes the crispest DB shoulders of the three (for me, anyway).
Thanks for the exhaustive description, Concordia.
From the three, Steven cuts the most attractive jacket. Once my neapolitan fondness softens, I'll give him a try.
Have their suits always been made this way or do you think they are trying to adapt to clients who want closer fitting garments?
Ed has said A&S jackets are generally different from what he was trained to cut. Maybe it is a John Hitchcock quirk. The cutter's eye always matters. Also, I had my first pattern made at A&S 20 years ago and perhaps I am remembering the effect of changing weight over that time. Certainly my Steed pattern started when my weight was up, and my very first A&S blazer now feels a little more spacious than it has been at times in the interim.
Even so, I think there is some difference in some aspect of cutting or pressing that makes A&S jackets shaped differently, even when more or less the same size. A tailoring nerd would need to weigh in for a better analysis.
My A&S jacket feels pretty slim and was made recently. Would agree that Steed feels more "old school A&S" in that regard. Also more distinctive in terms of look.
Although I'm not a tailoring expert, and I still cannot fully understand the articles I'm gonna share below, I believe that Steven Hitchcock's explanation of 'fish cut' and 'side body cut' is quite aligned with what Concordia said above:
A&S' cut (fish cut) is seemingly suitable for heavy clothes as well as for people with huge difference between chest and waist size. I suppose that the fist cut would give more significant waist supression but produce less shape, especially the chest as from the picture in the article this cut tends to produce flatter chest.
The side body cut (the one that Steven and other SR houses use) is more suitable for lighter clothes and people with smaller drop. I believe it is because lighter fabrics do not drape and create shape as good as heavy clothes. Therefore, this technique is used to create more shape in the garment...
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