The Anderson & Sheppard Expatriates Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by voxsartoria, Jun 6, 2008.

  1. zjpj83

    zjpj83 Senior member

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    Thanks for the explanation, which makes a lot of sense.
     


  2. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Goon member

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    [​IMG]

    My new favorite suit! Steed (Edwin DeBoise) DB bespoke suit in Smith & Co. 11oz flannel (for those of you who care, this is a model with the front cut)

    Closeup of the jacket, shirt, tie and square:

    [​IMG]


    - B
     


  3. Winot

    Winot Senior member

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    ...
     
    Last edited: Nov 14, 2011


  4. Standard Toaster

    Standard Toaster Senior member

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    - B

    This is best looking suit I've seen on SF.
     


  5. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Wow, I love it. That's really up there in the pantheon of SF bespoke suits, if you ask me--particularly exceptional if it's your first suit from the tailor! The drape is beautifully executed.

    Very different from what I have and I'm more than a little jealous.
     


  6. texas_jack

    texas_jack Senior member

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    OK so here is my Stephen Hitchcock DB Minnis 16oz flannel. Apologies for the crappy photos:




    I'd appreciate feedback from those more knowledgable than I for any alterations I should consider (I picked it up at the end of last year and have probably orn it half a dozen times).

    It's much looser (and therefore more comfortable) than any suit I've had before, but Stephen seems to have worked enough shape to balance that looseness. I've got a fairly bad dropped right shoulder as you can see and also a rounded back. I'd probably go for a lower break if I repeated the exercise.


    Post bigger photos. Much bigger[/I]
     


  7. TRINI

    TRINI Senior member

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    this is a model with the front cut)

    What do you mean by 'front cut'?
     


  8. pejsek

    pejsek Senior member

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    My new favorite suit! Steed (Edwin DeBoise) DB bespoke suit in Smith & Co. 11oz flannel (for those of you who care, this is a model with the front cut)



    - B


    I really like this. Grey flannel is under-rated. This strikes just the right tone--modern but not aggressively so; old-fashioned but not insistent on remaining an anachronism.
     


  9. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Goon member

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    What do you mean by 'front cut'?

    Same thing as front dart.

    The two typical shaping cuts for the side to front of most jackets are sidebodies that go up into the armscye and then a darted front. The sidebody is a separate piece of cloth joining back to front and going up into the arm. The front dart is what you see typically going from the chest down into the hip out pockets...95% of jackets have this.

    An Amercan BB#1 style "sack" jacket has sidebodies, but no front dart or cut.

    In contrast, a historically typical A&S style jacket will not have sidebodies. None of my stuff from Steed does, for example. Instead, it would be common for there to be an underarm cut instead...there is no separate piece for the side, but there a dart that almost, but not quite, goes into the armscye. This dart is not visible when one's arms are at one's side. Part of this aesthetic is a desire to minimize the number of seams in a jacket. Fewer seams mean that it is more difficult to shape the jacket since a lot then depends on manipulating the fabric.

    Examples:

    1. Here is one of my Deboises (let's call this model 1): no sidebodies, underarm cut, and no front cut or dart:

    [​IMG]

    You can see that despite the paucity of seams, the jacket is still relatively highly waisted and shaped...probably as much as can be done without putting a dart in.

    2. Here is another (let's call this model 2): no sidebodies, underarm cut, but with a front cut or dart:

    [​IMG]

    This one is cinched in ever so slightly more, made easier by having a front dart.

    Does that make sense?

    Why not have a front dart? It looks cool, like a BB sack, but in the case of the British bespoke stuff, still shapely.


    - B
     


  10. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Goon member

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    OK so here is my Stephen Hitchcock DB Minnis 16oz flannel. Apologies for the crappy photos:

    Nice, Winot...if you do have bigger photos, please do post them. I confess to having some reservations about the back near the arms...can't tell exactly from the small photos.


    - B
     


  11. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Goon member

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    This is best looking suit I've seen on SF.

    I really like this. Grey flannel is under-rated. This strikes just the right tone--modern but not aggressively so; old-fashioned but not insistent on remaining an anachronism.

    Thank you. I like this suit a lot.


    - B
     


  12. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    Nice, Winot...if you do have bigger photos, please do post them. I confess to having some reservations about the back near the arms...can't tell exactly from the small photos.

    You have reservations about the Drape? First, you deceive me into not wearing my double-breasted suit today, then you reveal that your suit trousers are flat front, and now this.

    A disheartening day.
     


  13. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Goon member

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    You have reservations about the Drape?

    What I think that I see does not have anything to do with teh drap, but it is difficult to tell without a larger photograph.

    First, you deceive me into not wearing my double-breasted suit today, then you reveal that your suit trousers are flat front, and now this.

    A disheartening day.


    Does this mean that you are going back to Oxxford?


    - B
     


  14. TRINI

    TRINI Senior member

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    Same thing as front dart. Does that make sense?
    Yessir - thanks for the explanation.
     


  15. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    What I think that I see does not have anything to do with teh drap, but it is difficult to tell without a larger photograph.

    Maybe I'm just blinded by the general micro-awesomeness of Winot's suit.

    Does this mean that you are going back to Oxxford?

    Maybe I already have and they are my MMTMM.
     


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