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The Anderson & Sheppard Expatriates Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by voxsartoria, Jun 6, 2008.

  1. Naive Jr.

    Naive Jr. Senior member

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    I requested that the Style Forum help me edit my offensively formulated sentence and delete its doppelgänger, but got no reply. My apology and I'm pleased to know the victim of my verbal abrasion enjoyed that all night party.
     
  2. bboysdontcryy

    bboysdontcryy Senior member

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    Last edited: Jun 9, 2013
    3 people like this.
  3. clemente21

    clemente21 Senior member

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    I have a conundrum that I could use some help with:

    I am interested in a particular cut: natural shoulder, lower button stance, nipped waist, side-tab trousers, etc. I have about $1.5K to spend on a suit. I am a young attorney, and need to get quite a lot of wear out of the thing, meaning that I need to choose a conservative and somewhat forgettable fabric.

    Obviously, this is the sort of cut that Steed is known for. However, with my budget I would only be able to get MTM, not bespoke. The only OTR suit I have found that is a similar cut is the Paul Stuart, stuart cut. It fits me well, but there is a small fold in the chest (I lift weights, and genetically my shoulders just get bigger than my chest). So while the fit on the PS is good, it's not perfect, and would require some tailoring.

    Essentially, MTM from Steed and OTR from PS will cost the same (right at the maximum of my budget). The construction of the PS suit I believe would be better - fully canvassed from Samuelson - than the construction on the MTM steed (at least partially fused). However, obviously the fit on the Steed would hopefully be better, and more amenable to my slightly off-kilter upper body. However, because I need to choose a conservative, forgettable fabric, I certainly won't be able to maximize the most from the MTM experience.

    I live in New York, so both options are easily accesible.

    Given the facts, which would you choose? I apologize for the long post - but obviously that are quite a few factors at play.
     
    Last edited: Jun 10, 2013
  4. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I'd choose the better fitted garment. Chances are you are going to get more suits in the future that are better I doubt the partially fused garment would show significant signs of that weak link in the amount of time you will be wearing it. My 2 cents.
     
  5. clemente21

    clemente21 Senior member

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    Thanks for the advice. Just for clarification: the tailor at PS thought that the chest fold could be easily fixed (though I'm not so sure of that myself). However, even were that the case, the cut still isn't exactly what I'm looking for (button stance still somewhat high, etc). So all in all, barring some odd disaster, the better fitted garment would almost certainly be the Steed MTM, right?

    One other point on the wear - I would probably be wearing the suit 3x/week for 12 months. Is that the sort of wear that would obviously show on a fused suit?
     
    Last edited: Jun 10, 2013
  6. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Honestly, I wouldn't recommend wearing the same suit that frequently. If I were you I would have my leg pulled to get at least 2, or at least save your pennies for another 6 months down the road, but back to your concern... I would definitely get the better fitting garment (Steed). Also, I am not sure what you mean by "chest roll" but in any case it doesn't sound good. Most chest issues I have found over the years can't really be altered to satisfaction. Waist issues are a different story.
     
    Last edited: Jun 10, 2013
  7. clemente21

    clemente21 Senior member

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    By "chest roll" I meant an extra fold of fabric in the upper corner of the chest towards the shoulder - as in a piece of fabric that is bigger than my chest because of the extra width necessary in the shoulders.

    I hear you on the frequency of wear issue. I can keep the suit posted in my signature, though the fit is iffy, and get some use out of that.

    Thanks again.
     
  8. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Well extra width in the chest is desirable to many, especially fans of Anderson & Sheppard, however if it is there just because the suit is too big I am sure it isn't attractive. I stand by my recommendation for Steed.
     
  9. Slewfoot

    Slewfoot Senior member

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    I think if you meet with Edwin and Matthew of Steed next time they are in NYC they can explain the whole MTM process very well and set your expectations accordingly. They will be in town next towards the end of July I believe.
     
  10. davesmith

    davesmith Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    "Are you asking me to make a Rolls-Royce with the front of a Mercedes, sir?"

    Love that line!
     
    1 person likes this.
  11. taxgenius

    taxgenius Senior member

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    +1
     
  12. clemente21

    clemente21 Senior member

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    Thanks.

    One more question on Steed - I know Derek has said that it is a good cut for those without, paraphrasing his words here, "Olympian figures." I'm not to that level, but I am relatively muscular. Is there any reason the Steed house style wouldn't also look good on someone with that figure?
     
    Last edited: Jun 11, 2013
  13. Slewfoot

    Slewfoot Senior member

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    Vox is pretty muscular (based on some "lifestyle" photos he's posted) so I think it should be fine.
     
  14. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I think Edwin can accommodate any figure like most good tailors can. The drape cut can definitely accentuate a strong chest though. If you look back in the thread look at Voxsartoria's photos. He is a very fit dude and you can see how it looks.
     
  15. Concordia

    Concordia Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I don't know how it works on the MTM with Steed, but Edwin will put more in the chest than any of the A&S-trained tailors I've worked with.
     
  16. Butler

    Butler Senior member

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    Steven Hitchcock SB, Harrison Saltire Cashmere windowpane . Turnbull &Asser shirt with detached collar from Budd. Rubinacci tie, John Lobb St James's nubuck :bigstar:





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    Last edited: Jul 19, 2013
    8 people like this.
  17. CrimsonSox

    CrimsonSox Senior member

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    What a great fit. The subtle curve for the waist suppression is excellent. Perfect fabric too -- perhaps a charcoal flannel? Did you work with a particular cutter at A&S?

     
    1 person likes this.
  18. Slewfoot

    Slewfoot Senior member

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    Steed fitting in NYC yesterday in LL Brown Houndstooth.

    [​IMG]
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    The inspiration for this coat was this from the Duke of Windsor's closet. The pockets will be a bit more tame and there will be a belt in the back. Mine will also be a two button front with the buttons just above and below where the middle button would normally be. I have enough "standard" sportcoats that I thought why not do something a bit different. Look forward to seeing the finished product this September.

    [​IMG]
     
    4 people like this.
  19. poorsod

    poorsod Senior member

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    Oh that see your houndstooth! I had a fitting for a 3 piece in the RAF Agnelli flannel and a set of tails. :slayer:
     
    1 person likes this.
  20. Slewfoot

    Slewfoot Senior member

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    Nice and glad they're working out for you!
     

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