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savvysartorial

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Gorgeous. Truffle was a special run a while back, wasn't it? My #8 Cambridges are some of my favorite examples of the cherry red that burgundy shell can be, and yours remind me of that.

Can't bring yourself to wear the blue shell? I've seen multiple pairs of blue shell now, and I want a pair badly but I guess since MTO is gone I will be waiting a while :violin:
 

aero25

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Gorgeous. Truffle was a special run a while back, wasn't it? My #8 Cambridges are some of my favorite examples of the cherry red that burgundy shell can be, and yours remind me of that.

Can't bring yourself to wear the blue shell? I've seen multiple pairs of blue shell now, and I want a pair badly but I guess since MTO is gone I will be waiting a while :violin:
There are other shoemaker out there that will take your money for a superb navy shell, if so inclined. @peppercorn78 listed several on the previous page that are top notch
 

mreams99

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I’m sharing these as a small symbol that perhaps AE is making changes that will allow successful MTO again.

These arrived this weekend, after being held up during production while new systems were implemented.

I’m not sure that they’d be considered MTO in this group. The changes were minor, and the order slipped in at the 11th hour — just before any sort of changes were disallowed last summer. I went with a lug sole instead of Dainite, and contrast welt stitching.
C2A4F58D-5C99-461C-A163-3ABBBDEFA98E.jpeg
 

savvysartorial

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I've seen some of the manufacturers but I prefer GYW over Blake and I just can't seem to find a style that I like. For whatever reason I'm stuck in the Alden/Allen Edmonds styles; I just love 'em. Maybe it's just the way Americans make shoes, some of the European ones just don't feel like they'd fit my style, if that makes sense :embar:
 

peppercorn78

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I've seen some of the manufacturers but I prefer GYW over Blake and I just can't seem to find a style that I like. For whatever reason I'm stuck in the Alden/Allen Edmonds styles; I just love 'em. Maybe it's just the way Americans make shoes, some of the European ones just don't feel like they'd fit my style, if that makes sense :embar:

Taste is taste! But just so you have complete info, of the makers I listed above, Carmina is GYW, and Bonafe and Vass both use handwelting, which is superior to GYW and Blake Rapid in every way.
 

savvysartorial

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@peppercorn78, Ah maybe I don't have the full picture then! The photos I've seen of Carmina don't seem to show channel stitching on the soles.
 

madhat

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@peppercorn78, Ah maybe I don't have the full picture then! The photos I've seen of Carmina don't seem to show channel stitching on the soles.
Closed channel stitching. The leather is reglued in place to hide the stitches. It's a higher end technique due to the time involvement. I have a pair of vintage Johnston and Murphy gator oxfords and J Fitzpatrick button boots that have closed channel stitching. It's a nice bit of finishing, even if it doesn't change the function of the shoe.
A quick reader for you:
http://www.theshoesnobblog.com/2014/10/closed-vs-open-channel-sole-stitching.html
 

peppercorn78

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@peppercorn78, Ah maybe I don't have the full picture then! The photos I've seen of Carmina don't seem to show channel stitching on the soles.

Yes, this is a Higher end technique used by makers like John Lobb and Edward Green. It makes the shoe look much nicer and protects the stitch for greater durability. It also drives labor cost way up.

Vass and Bonafe also do this
on leather soles. It’s actually default practice in shoemaking. Stitching “aloft” as Loake and Alden do was an invention of practicality and efficiency. For a factory operating at efficiencies to keep cost down, the greater sole life is not worth (to them literally, as it increases longevity of soles) the increase in time and effort for each pair.

These days the prime benefit is visual attractiveness, as actual impact on durability will vary from pair to pair and person to person.
 

savvysartorial

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Closed channel stitching. The leather is reglued in place to hide the stitches. It's a higher end technique due to the time involvement. I have a pair of vintage Johnston and Murphy gator oxfords and J Fitzpatrick button boots that have closed channel stitching. It's a nice bit of finishing, even if it doesn't change the function of the shoe.
A quick reader for you:
http://www.theshoesnobblog.com/2014/10/closed-vs-open-channel-sole-stitching.html

Very good read, thank you. Clears a few things up in my mind!


Yes, this is a Higher end technique used by makers like John Lobb and Edward Green. It makes the shoe look much nicer and protects the stitch for greater durability. It also drives labor cost way up.

Vass and Bonafe also do this
on leather soles. It’s actually default practice in shoemaking. Stitching “aloft” as Loake and Alden do was an invention of practicality and efficiency. For a factory operating at efficiencies to keep cost down, the greater sole life is not worth (to them literally, as it increases longevity of soles) the increase in time and effort for each pair.

These days the prime benefit is visual attractiveness, as actual impact on durability will vary from pair to pair and person to person.

Thanks for the explanation. Always learning from this group :cheers:
 

savvysartorial

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