Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by mdubs, Feb 28, 2014.
DJ, those MTO Eagle County's are amazing. Job well done!
Casual Leeds "in the wild"
OK, well Allison emailed me this week saying they couldn't do the Promontory Points in calf leather, as I'd requested, so she asked if I wanted them done in a casual leather. So I'm going to ask for them in Cognac Dublin. And, NWTeal, I'll try your idea of getting the suede tongue, since you say it's more comfortable. Thanks for the idea.
I need some help from everyone, though, regarding the stitching. On my original order, I asked for burnished brown calf with tone-on-tone stitching. (And I said everything else could be the same as the original PP design; this is my first MTO so I've been trying to keep it simple.) So I'm wondering if you think tone-on-tone stitching would look good with Cognac Dublin or if you think I should get contrast stitching (which looks very nice in the above pictures). The problem is that the original PPs have white stitching that I don't think looks particularly good. Any help would be appreciated.
I think contrasting stitching would be fine with a Dublin leather. I definitely wouldn't do white though. A tan stitch if you do a natural welt could be a nice touch.
Just like mine. You are gonna love those boots. I know I do mine. I get a lot of compliments on all my shoes, but I gotta say, on my first wearing of my Eagle County's I got more comments than any other shoe I own.
The more I think about this, the more I think this is genius.
There are really 2 ways you can go with MTO. You can make minor changes (i.e. color, calf to cordovan) and keep the original look of the shoe while making improvements. The alternative is to change the shoe from start to finish essentially making a new product. I think this is great and very creative. Something that could be used as a whole new product rather than a special edition Leeds. Hats off.
Agreed. All of the gorgeous Eagle Counties we're seeing is confirmation of this.
Rothsay MTO. Already posted pics on the regular thread but also adding them here.
1608 COGNAC DUBLIN LEATHER
TONE ON TONE UPPER STITCHING
CHILI SPLIT REVERSE WELT
INDEPENDENCE LINING AND INSOLE
RED DAINITE OUTSOLE
Awesome. Congrats on those bad boys.
Question: I've seen some orders with "wheeled and fudged edges." What is fudging? If I say "wheeled edges" is that the same thing? Is fudging something different from wheeled?
Does anyone know the reasoning behind the 'no discontinued styles' rule on MTO that was recently implemented? I can understand the 'no closeout pricing' as these are custom shoes, but if they still have the leather and the patterns it seems very odd that they would want to lost out on business. Case in point, I think many of us would pick up a pair of Eagle County boots after seeing these wonderful makeups that are so much better than what was originally conceived. In many ways what we do is free design advice for AE and if they took some of our models and made them web gems or regular offerings in later seasons I think they would have tremendous success.
Limiting our access to older models essentially diminishes our ability to help AE with creative concepts, and I think everyone loses at that point. And when I say older, I am still talking about this year.
My only guess would be that it is much easier to produce mtos of shoes/boots that are already in production.
In Goodyear-welted shoes with machine stitched welts, wheeling and fudging is the same thing. They are simply ridges that are "embossed" on the welt. They strictly serve a decorative purpose.
In hand-made bespoke shoes, it actually has a practical purpose of measuring out the placement of the stitches when the soles are sewn on, and it helps tighten them. The term fudging (the etymology of the word being based upon "cheating") is just that. It is a wheel that marks the welt the easy way. Using a stitch prick is the true old-world method, and it is completely done by free hand, the hard way. Hence "fudging" when you take the "easy" route.
Here is a photo of a hand-made shoe with a welt that has been done using a stitch prick in the old world method, made by DW Frommer:
Notice when you click to enlarge it, that the stitches fall perfectly into each indentation (obviously so, since it was done by hand to mark out the stitches).
Compare that to a modern Goodyear-welted machine stitched shoe, where the wheeling (or fudging) has simply been done to imitate the original. The stitches don't generally land perfectly in the indentations all the way around the shoe. Sometimes they are even extremely off.
Here's an example of an Alden, where the wheeling is done by machine (for show), and it doesn't necessarily line up perfectly:
That's a great explanation. Thanks MWS. I asked for wheeling on each of my MTO's, and when Allison mentioned "fudging" I didn't know what she meant.
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