The "Actively Discovering 'New' Brands" Thread

[PipersSon]

Good thread.

 

[EliodA]

^ Looks like the same issue I had with the uneven folds...

+ 1, looks as poorly made as the other B&B ties we've seen here.

 

[Henry Carter]

What those blokes said, same maker. Same funny gap in the middle never seen that with any other makers.

 

[gettoasty]

I picked up one tie from B&B during their last sale and think it is beautiful albeit a simple pattern. No chance to wear it yet though but it fills a hole in my tie collection. The tie feels nice and it was packaged well.

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

I also recently posted my thoughts about DC pants I received; I am a fan.




About ties, Knottery NY is a favorite of mine. It just works for me. Not a fan of some of their more outlandish knits and patterns but when they have simple enough prints or basic weaves/grenadine they really deliver on the goods.

 

[TweedyProf]

I think B&B obviously have quality control issues with their ties, which would be in their interest to resolve. I'll drop them a line about mine since there is both a fabric and construction issue which might help them. Will report back on what they say.

Edit: I've sent an email with pics. I'll report back as to what they say.

 

[Claghorn]

Has anyone tried any of @SartodiNapoli 's ties? I think @emptym purchased some squares from him? Anyway, some of the new stuff looks pretty tasty at 75 euros.

 

[Coxsackie]

Just received my long-awaited second commission from Tianzi Shoes (Shanghai). I asked them to replicate these beauties from G&G as closely as possible, using one of their standard lasts and the measurements from my first commission:




...and here's the result:




Of course, they don't do the gorgeous narrow fiddleback waist which is such an elegant feature of G&G's footwear.






Heels are also fairly chunky, a little more like C&J than G&G.




Pretty damn good for under US$200 in my opinion. However, here's the weak point: the heel counter.





Yup, they got that bit badly wrong. Disappointing, but as this part of the shoe is rarely seen, I'm not too fussed (and it's not like it's terrible anyway, just not up to par with the rest of the work).

I also got Tianzi to make me a matching belt. They have a very limited range of buckles, all of which are chunky-ugly, so at some point I'll ask them to swap it out for a better one supplied by me.



Action shot:



I did a site visit to Tianzi's factory a couple of years back. It's a small outfit with about a dozen staff. Most work is done by hand; I'm too ignorant to recognise a Goodyear welting machine so I'm not really sure whether they have one or if they are doing it by hand. But AFAIK all their shoes are GY welted and they can also do a storm welt and maybe even a Norvegese.

It's a family business, the husband is the cordwainer and his wife Bonita runs the office and processes orders. They have an online video showing you how to take the measurements they need. They will happily copy any style of shoe, but using one of their existing lasts, so it's kind of half-bespoke, half-MTM.

They use Italian full-grain leathers of medium-high but not exceptional quality. Overall this is a great resource for shoe lovers who might be looking for a special commission which won't break the bank.

 

[TweedyProf]

Just got a response from Mathias Berg. I sent him photos of the fraying grenadine and the stitching on the back of blade. Here are the relevant parts:

"Thanks so much for sending me this, the feedback is greatly appreciated.

I agree that that particular grenadine has been more fragile than usual, and understand your frustration.

I also agree that the blades should line up, and we will of course discuss your feedback to our manufacturer.

Again, thanks for taking time to write this e-mail. In our work to create the best products we can, advice and feedback for customers are certainly helpful."

 

[TM79]

Pretty weak reply.

 

[TweedyProf]

Cox that's helpful and interesting. Nice replication for <$200 of a >$1000 shoe. Too bad about the heel though I doubt anyone would notice except here!

 

[TweedyProf]



Pretty weak reply.

That is my impression too. Admittedly I did not write a strongly worded letter. More British than American. But I did want to see how they would respond.

 

[venividivicibj]

Looks great for $200! Wow.

 

[venividivicibj]

Just got a response from Mathias Berg. I sent him photos of the fraying grenadine and the stitching on the back of blade. Here are the relevant parts:

"Thanks so much for sending me this, the feedback is greatly appreciated.

I agree that that particular grenadine has been more fragile than usual, and understand your frustration.

I also agree that the blades should line up, and we will of course discuss your feedback to our manufacturer.

Again, thanks for taking time to write this e-mail. In our work to create the best products we can, advice and feedback for customers are certainly helpful."

So he didn't say anything about fixing it, and did't even apologize to you haha.

 

[TweedyProf]

A bit boilerplate from a small batch maker. They should have done more to deal with a defective product.

Anyway suffice it to say I shall not be purchasing ties from them again, nor can I recommend them due to QC issues and in the end, poor response. Too bad as they often make nice fabric choices. But at around the $100 price point there are many other good options.

 

[Claghorn]

Yup. But whoever picks their fabrics has a good eye. Plenty of misses, but lots of great looking ties nonetheless.