I have a pair of Jalan's and love them. They're a couple of years old though, and their designs these days are less appealing. Probably a bit above AE level in terms of finishing and QC. No idea on construction. I understand from someone at Unipair (it may have been @unipair guy) that the guy who designed the production methods trained as a cordwainer in England. But that's pretty meaningless (can't we say the same about Daniel Day-Lewis?) I think @EliodA has plans to stop by their factory at some point. On a different note, anyone has experience with Breuer ties? Turns out I own one. Makes an excellent knot, but the silk didn't impress me.