The $1200 and under category...

[The_Foxx]

obviously, Kiton, Brioni, Oxxford, and Isaia have clear hand-stitching all over the suit, inside and out. however, i'm looking for the lowdown on the 1200 dollar and under category of suits. Where do suits by Canali (Milano and Proposta....what is the difference between the two?), Corneliani, Armani (who can decipher this maze of Collectione, Classico, etc. etc?.?.?), Hickey Freeman, Hugo Boss, and Joseph Abboud?

any help on this tangled web appreciated (my sneaky suspicion is that, with the exception of Canali and Corneliani, they are all machine-made fused terrors.)

 

[davei]

I'd like the low-down myself, but it's not as simple as fused/non-fused. Check out this article: http://www.ravistailor.com/customtailor/newsletter7.htm It's written by a tailoring shop, but it's still respectfully neutral. Lots of good info.

 

[bengal-stripe]

I hope it is clear to everybody, this article is lifted in it's entirety from Alan Flusser's "Style and the Man". Please, no more Flusser bashing on these pages.

 

[Mike C.]

Are you asking where you can buy a completely stitched suit for under $1200? If so, your best bet would be to go to your tailor and have him custom make one. I find this is the best option because you can pick out the type of material and fit you want.

When you buy a custom suit you don't have to pay for the advertising, import/export taxes, corporate bs that major manufacturers need to add on to the price. What your getting is actually a better product for the same/cheaper price. A few months ago I had my tailor custom make a suit using Holland & Sherry material; the same material Brioni uses. It only cost about $1100, and the fit is truely amazing.

 

[LA Guy]

Oh dear, the great Alan Flusser debate - again. When I wrote my original post, I was concerned primarily with his pretentiousness, and with the rather preposterous idea that his opinions are akin to edicts from heaven.

I did not mean to suggest that Alan Flusser is not highly knowledgeable about men's clothing, which he obviously is, nor that there is not a lot to be said for his particular style.

 

[davei]

bengal-stripe: ha. The plagiarism police should go after them - least RT could have done was to include a credit... Just goes to show Flusser is tolerable out of context and in small doses

<----tongue BURIED in cheek, with j/k in large capitals. But seriously, can anyone else provide some insight into the original question?

 

[davei]

Another link I found useful: http://www.8savilerow.com/style.html - see tailoring terms at end.

 

[The_Foxx]

no, no no.....i just want the lowdown on the suits i listed. Alan flusser's breakdown of categories is good, but outdated (look at all the names avail these days.).

what i need is info on canali milano and proposta (what is the difference?), armani (is classico better than colezione), is Boss a fused suit? stuff like that, please.

also, i've seen canali suits new for 995.....i need to buy a nice interview suit for new job within the next several months....recommendations in the $900 area (please be specific, and i am stylistically allergic to fused front suits)

thanks.

 

[LA Guy]

Briefly, Classico is much better than Collezioni. Classico is the elite of the Giorgio Armani mainline, whereas Collezioni is a diffusion line (20% less expensive.)

Canali Proposta is their younger, more stylistically advanced line. Canali Milano is the mainline.

Hugo Boss suits, except for the Baldessarini line, are fused front and largely machine made. By and large, so are all the suits you are looking at except for some of the Classico line, so it's time to reconcile yourself to the idea, unless you have the cash to get a handmade suit from the likes of Brioni or Kiton, which very few people do, and look fine regardless.

The Armani suits are made Vestimenta S.P.A., which sells suits under that label in North America, and under the Hilton label in Europe. Hugo Boss contract suits from a variety of factories. The difference between a well or ill-fitting suit, as Flusser writes (and you all know I'm not a big fan), lies principally in the design and fit rather than the construction, which is invisible except to exceptionally discerning eyes. I would advise that you put away your prejudices go down to a good mens store or to a specialty department store like Barneys or Saks, and try on suits until you find the one that fits you and you can afford.

I would advise anyone against buying suits on Ebay. My experience is that you should always buy suits only after trying them on.

 

[Manton]

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[Manton]

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