Ten C : The Emperor's New Clothes

[Peter1]

The discussion on this thread always circles back to perceived vs. actual value of TenC. All I would say is that Ten C is fashion and Timberland is commodity.

You can mix and match high and low and it's all good. But it's not an apples to apples comparison. Almost any mass-produced garment will have better "quality" than a small, artisanal maker, of course, but to me fashion is about how a garment makes me feel as much as it is about the intrinsic "worth" of that garment. In other words, I expect my clothing to do double duty -- make me look good and make me feel good at the same time.

I would be happier wearing that Ten C than I would wearing that Timberland coat. Every day. So, for me, the question often comes down to: How much is my happiness worth? 600 euros over the life of a coat? Perhaps, perhaps not.

 

[ceoceo]



This thread is for discussing Ten C.

From their website:

Ten C is designed by Alessandro Pungetti and Paul Harvey and is made exclusively in Italy. One fabric. Four colours. Seven jackets. Forever.

I understand that the designers have put time in at C.P. Company and Stone Island.

I just picked up their field jacket and it's a serious piece of outerwear. This is not a fashion jacket. It's functional and utilitarian and the aesthetic is straight-up army surplus. The cut is a bit on the boxy side and the construction and hardware are solid. Every review I've read emphasizes the fabric and I can definitely understand why. The first word that comes to mind is "industrial". The jacket practically stands up on its own. It's soft to the touch but also very rigid and is apparently both breathable and waterproof, though I haven't tested it yet.

They also make removable liners that work in all of their jackets, which seems pretty practical.

The discussion on this thread always circles back to perceived vs. actual value of TenC. All I would say is that Ten C is fashion and Timberland is commodity.

You can mix and match high and low and it's all good. But it's not an apples to apples comparison. Almost any mass-produced garment will have better "quality" than a small, artisanal maker, of course, but to me fashion is about how a garment makes me feel as much as it is about the intrinsic "worth" of that garment. In other words, I expect my clothing to do double duty -- make me look good and make me feel good at the same time.

I would be happier wearing that Ten C than I would wearing that Timberland coat. Every day. So, for me, the question often comes down to: How much is my happiness worth? 600 euros over the life of a coat? Perhaps, perhaps not.

Yeah I guess we did come a full circle
At this time I'm just happy that there is another garment that uses an interesting fabric, fit is pretty spot on and is very well constructed.

 

[dieworkwear]

It's not that surprising that a mass-market line would copy a boutique line. That's how fashion works. When I talked to Paul Harvey last year about Ten C, he was really open about the fabric. It's from Japan and they had exclusive rights for about a year or two. After that, the mill could sell to anyone. The M-65 is probably the most standard and basic design in their range, so it's the one that's most likely to get copied. I agree with Peter1, I personally would prefer the Ten C version just because it's a niche fashion line (anyone who thought Ten C wasn't a fashion line is fooling themselves), but I'm glad there are more affordable options out there.

I also don't think the M-65 is representative of what makes Ten C great though. Nor is it about the fabric. The other pieces are much better at showing Pungetti and Harvey's design talents. And things like the deck parka and M-51 are less likely to be copied by someone like Timberland simply because they have less broad appeal. They're "weirder" in other words.

But sure, eventually someone will copy design elements from those pieces, and the fashion cycle moves on.

Anyway, the original idea -- a never changing capsule collection -- was nice, but proved unsustainable since stores constantly need new product. The company is moving into all sorts of areas right now, including knitwear. I think it's kind of nice, as a guy who admittedly likes to see new collections.

The two Ten C pieces I own continue to be some of my favorite outerwear. That some high-street brand has knocked something off doesn't really bother me.

 

[London]

To Peter1, I don't necessarily believe that "almost any mass-produced garment will have better "quality" than a small, artisanal maker." I think the inverse is true. Once you become mass and scale, you're more likely cheap out on materials to squeeze additional margin because more than likely you have been acquired or taken on significant private equity and the people who put the money in your pocket are not doing it for charity.

 

[AdRock]

@ceoceo what color is that M65 from Timberland?

I have a Olive Parka from Ten C and I really enjoy it but I would consider this Timberland M65 at its current price right now as a stop-gap until I can afford the real thing.

Also, I have the new Shearling liner for my parka and wanted to grab a hood liner as well. Does anyone have any experience or opinion on the difference between the Shearling liner and hood liner as separates vs. the one piece shearling liner+hood?

 

[baptiste]

@ceoceo, have you tried to remove the timberland logo?

 

[Deva]

I have the hooded shearling liner and I wouldn't really recommend it, the hood kind of bulks up, and I rarely find myself in situations where its useful.

 

[ceoceo]



@ceoceo, have you tried to remove the timberland logo?

I didn't dare. Unfortunately the stitching is pretty sturdy and would leave some nasty scar on the fabric if I tried cutting thread by thread. That's what I get for being a cheap ass huh? Nice jacket still.

@AdRock: Its a taupe tone, same as the taupe TEN C offers- Im guessing its because the same mill that provides fabric for TEN C provides Timbs.

-------
ps. I initially liked the articuated elbows on the Timbs field jacket since it would prevent ballooning in the elbows, but I found out that such detail is also responsible for uneven stacks. 一長一短, I guess, but for a denim-like garment that is supposed to mold to your body one detail is more important than the other.
I now agree, the amount of thought put into TEN C is incomparable to that of Timberlands jacket.

 

[AdRock]

I have the hooded shearling liner and I wouldn't really recommend it, the hood kind of bulks up, and I rarely find myself in situations where its useful.

Awesome, thanks for the feedback.

 

[artronaut]

I just received my black parka today. I must say the color play and velvet like smoothness is absolutely stunning. However I'm really surprised about the stiffness of the fabric, not to mention the sound of it. It feels like wearing a big piece of cardboard

How long does it take to loose this stiffness and become super soft? Weeks, months?

Also how tough is the fabric, is it easily scratched and stained?

Thanks

@ Kazper,

is your parka still as loud and stiff? Today I have received my car coat and am wondering about It's sound and stiffness. I'm still thinking about returning it as I had expected something smoother ...

 

[akatsuki]

It will soften up over time... My old fishtail is pretty soft at this point.

 

[Mon Dieu]

FWIW Jus returned a Fishtail Parka Sized L tagged 52 to Barneys Warehouse.
Sent Friday good deal at 450.00
END has them at $750 anyone know why ?
Just curious as I need a 50
GL

 

[readeatsleep]

e a new, tags on, size 48 green TEN-C parka for sale -- $750 plus shipping. It is brand new, unworn, I just don't need it.

 

[winston86dit]

Anyone familiar with the m65 jacket and can help with sizing? I’m normally a pretty true medium but in all Ten C’s knitwear I am a Large. Should I take a large in the jackets as well? I’d like to get one of the down liners at some point and stick it in there but it definitely would not be in there all the time.
I’m so torn as the measurements seem to be so close between medium and large.

 

[GheeButtersnaps]

Anyone familiar with the m65 jacket and can help with sizing? I’m normally a pretty true medium but in all Ten C’s knitwear I am a Large. Should I take a large in the jackets as well? I’d like to get one of the down liners at some point and stick it in there but it definitely would not be in there all the time.
I’m so torn as the measurements seem to be so close between medium and large.

While I don't have experience with the M65 Jacket, I had a similar question regarding this season's anorak as I was debating between a M and L and wear M in almost all clothes. The SA recommended that I go TTS on the jacket and not size down, especially because I planned to get a liner and because the arms run slim.

So, extrapolating for you, I would think you should get an L, especially if you go with L in other jackets. I know my experience isn't directly applicable, but it might help.