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Ten best jeans

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by LA Guy, Feb 23, 2005.

  1. imageWIS

    imageWIS Senior member

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    Huh. I don't know if Theory is that mid-tier. I have a long sleeve shirt in cotton that can be machine washed and dried and a pair of linen pants that as well can be machine washed and dried and I am extremely impressed with the quality for the price paid (on sale of course). As well Theory is always my arguing point regarding matched shirting patterns, if Theory shirts that are made in China can have matched patterns for the $195 charged; T&A can as well match patterns for the $295+ they charge.

    Jon.
     
  2. imageWIS

    imageWIS Senior member

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    Actually everything GAP this year has something left to be desired. WTF happened to all the clothes? It's like they have 20% of the quantity they used to stock mid-last-year.

    Jon.
     
  3. Baron

    Baron Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    What is this mysterious brand/model? Levi's 517 boot cut in 32x34. I have to wash them now because they smell like a Guitarwolf concert, so we'll see how they come through that. Unfortunately, though, they are made of the crappy Levi's fabric. My question is this: is there another model of jeans cut just like that, or maybe with a slimmer lower leg, only made out of good selvedge denim? Are the APC standards anything like this? I still haven't gotten around to ordering my pair of those.
    I would say that the Anglaise fit is closer to the 517 than the New (or old) Standard. Good luck, Fok.
    I strongly disagree with this. I am a big fan of this cut. I own two pair of vintage 517 jeans, and 6 pairs of 517 cords, all sized 34 x 32. I just bought a pair of APC Anglaise, sized 33. The fit is nothing like the 517. 517's are high waisted, fitted fairly close from the waist through the knee, and subtly flared below the knee. The APC Anglaise are low waisted, and very baggy throughout. I can't keep them up without a belt. The waist measures about 2 inches bigger than the marked size. They are actually too baggy for my taste. I really wish I had bought the Unisex or New Standard. j - if you want to find good 517's, you gotta look on ebay. Once you know your size, you can find nice vintage pairs, usually pretty cheap. I found a nearly deadstock pair there recently, dating from the 1970's, for $10. Alternately, Denime makes a 517 reproduction - the "517 type." See www.e-denime.com. Not available in the US, from what I can tell. Also, the Helmut Lang Classic Boot Cut is similar to the 517, but lower waisted and slightly narrower in the lower leg.
     
  4. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    I stand corrected. Thank you Baron for catching my mistake. I think that I had the 505 when I wrote my original post. They are two completely different cuts, and I always get the numbers mixed up for some reason. I would say that that Austin bootcut in the Levis Premium line, a cut which I believe is now no longer in production, is probably the closest affordable jean to what you are looking for, since it was actually inspired by the 517. If you can find the coveted wash (the first wash the Levi's premiums were made in) I would strongly advise you pick them up. i had a pair that I wore to tatters - they fit me grat too.

    BTW, Baron sorry about your bad experience with the Anglaise. I guess that I just like my jeans to fit loose around my hips, and I always wear a belt. The 'Unisex" is just the old Standard, btw, and fit a lot like the Helmut Lang Bootcut.
     
  5. Baron

    Baron Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I thought I might just sell the Anglaise on ebay at first, but I'm starting to warm to them. The low waist makes the bagginess easier to deal with, and the denim is very nice. The truth is, I'm very skinny below the waist, so slim cut jeans fit me like a regular cut, and loose cuts like the Anglaise make me look like MC Hammer. They kinda make me feel like I should cinch them at mid buttock over an oversized pair of boxers and accessorize with a gold chain and Raiders jersey. At 37, I may be too old to pull that off.

    I also always wear a belt, but it usually serves to keep my pants from sliding down to my lower hips, rather than from sliding to my ankles, as the Anglaise would do. Anyways, that's the danger of buying clothes online. It's an educated guess at best. I could have just exchanged them really, but I thought they might shrink (even though I knew they were sanfordized.) I'll just keep wearing them and get in touch with my inner OG.
     
  6. Brian SD

    Brian SD Senior member

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    nevermind, you answered it all [​IMG]
     
  7. modsquad

    modsquad Senior member

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    In the NY Times men's fashion supplement yesterday, there is a picture of the owner of a New York boutique called Atrium wearing a pair of resin-tinted jeans from the label Blue Blood. The pants look great,with a really arresting sheen, although the picture is small. I assume it's the resin tint that gives them the shine, but what is resin tinting?
     
  8. Luc-Emmanuel

    Luc-Emmanuel Senior member

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    [​IMG] Well, you could always buy a pair of tight jeans, coat it with a brush of liquid rubber, tar or some polymere material (resin). Then, use a soldering iron to burn holes in the fabric at various places (be creative.), et voila, a brand new pair of dior homme jeans ... luc
     
  9. j

    j Senior member Admin

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    (LA Guy @ Mar. 12 2005,18:12) Quote What is this mysterious brand/model? Levi's 517 boot cut in 32x34. I have to wash them now because they smell like a Guitarwolf concert, so we'll see how they come through that. Unfortunately, though, they are made of the crappy Levi's fabric. My question is this: is there another model of jeans cut just like that, or maybe with a slimmer lower leg, only made out of good selvedge denim? Are the APC standards anything like this? I still haven't gotten around to ordering my pair of those.
    I would say that the Anglaise fit is closer to the 517 than the New (or old) Standard. Â Good luck, Fok.
    I strongly disagree with this. I am a big fan of this cut. I own two pair of vintage 517 jeans, and 6 pairs of 517 cords, all sized 34 x 32. I just bought a pair of APC Anglaise, sized 33. The fit is nothing like the 517. 517's are high waisted, fitted fairly close from the waist through the knee, and subtly flared below the knee. The APC Anglaise are low waisted, and very baggy throughout. I can't keep them up without a belt. The waist measures about 2 inches bigger than the marked size. They are actually too baggy for my taste. I really wish I had bought the Unisex or New Standard. j - if you want to find good 517's, you gotta look on ebay. Once you know your size, you can find nice vintage pairs, usually pretty cheap. I found a nearly deadstock pair there recently, dating from the 1970's, for $10. Alternately, Denime makes a 517 reproduction - the "517 type." See www.e-denime.com. Not available in the US, from what I can tell. Also, the Helmut Lang Classic Boot Cut is similar to the 517, but lower waisted and slightly narrower in the lower leg.[/quote] Thanks for this info. I guess Denime is on my list for Japan. Anyone know which shop would be best to try? I might email them as well. Also, prices? If I'm reading it right, looks like 15540 Yen? (~$150) I'm checking ebay next.
     
  10. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    I have muscular legs, and the Standards fit pretty tight on the thighs for me. Besides, I have lots of slim cut jeans, and I like the bagginess of the Anglaise for a change - a little more casual. I actually *should* wear a 32 (maybe even a 31) in the Anglaise, but I like my jeans, and especially my baggier jeans, to fit just above the hipbone. Not necessarily just a hiphip style. More like a skater dude thing (although I nearly killed myself last time I got on a deck.)

    You were totally right about the 517's btw, Baron.

    I like Blue Blood, but in the same character, at the same pricepoint, much prefer Corpus. Atrium is a cool store, but the best store for the freshest jeans in NYC at the moment, in my opinion, in Nom de Guerre (the jeans subsidiary of ISA).

    Yes, the tinting is from the resin washing. BTW, nearly all jeans are treated with resin at some point in their processing to help them keep their color (this excludes raw denim, obviously.) The effect of a visible resin, like those on the Blue Bloods and the Paper Denim "Resin DarK" and Earnest Sewn "Black and beige) washes, is deliberate.
     
  11. VMan

    VMan Senior member

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    LA Guy,

    What do you know about a denim brand called Notify? An upscale denim shop near campus recently started carrying this line. They have a few different models, priced $230 to $250. The jeans were made in Italy, and had very lightweight denim. I'm no expert, but I would have guessed 6oz. Pretty cool, but a little too lightweight for me. They did have pretty nice detailing, and a decent cut. Though a little too narrow at the leg opening for my taste.
     
  12. retronotmetro

    retronotmetro Senior member

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    (benchan @ Mar. 13 2005,10:43) I think the GAP 1969 series jeans are worth mentioning as well. Those the new washes this yr leave something to be desired.
    Actually everything GAP this year has something left to be desired. WTF happened to all the clothes? It's like they have 20% of the quantity they used to stock mid-last-year. Jon.
    I have a pair of Gap 1969 jeans from last year that I really like--fairly dark wash boot cuts with a very slight amount of whiskering on the front, and a little grinding on the pocket edges. It seems like they tried the "1969 Collection" out as a premium clothing line with limited availability, then ended the experiment when it failed to attract much interest. I'm not sure it even exists as a separate line any more. If you don't like what you are seeing from Gap lately, I suppose you can blame Paul Pressler, their CEO for the past couple of years. But you'll have to get in line behind the Disneyana geeks who want to string him up for what he did to the Disney theme parks division.
     
  13. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    I dislike the brand. They models I've seen had a little too much detailing and the cuts were a little too extreme, trying a little too hard, sort of like True Religion. I especially dislike the stitched "Notify" branding on the waistband. Yes, they are difficult to find in the U.S., but exclusivity, in my mind, can be highly overrated. Also, the price is just ridiculous for what you are getting. May as well save up and get some 45RPMs.
     
  14. Brian SD

    Brian SD Senior member

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    Denime is great. You said you like standard 501s right? Because you'll find plenty of that, but with the most painstakingly perfect details of vintage jenas, and quite possibly the best quality denim in the world. Not sure on shops, I'll save that for MY trip to Japan [​IMG] For the record, I do not really like Blue Bloods. A little too hip-hop for me. The washes are interesting but impractical, I prefer the more traditional / authentic look. Not to mention they are extremely expensive. The quality and construction and general feel of them is very cool though - again, just not my style. Not sure how long they last as I don't know anyone whose had them for a prolonged period of time.
     
  15. shoreman1782

    shoreman1782 Senior member

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    LA Guy:
    Brian SD:
    These both speak to my problems with what's becoming most upscale jeans... I mentioned awhile back that the Da'mage wash/treatment turned me off as being artificial. While I used to decry to absurdity of making "new" vintage jeans, the recent trend towards acceptable artifice in jeans crosses some line for me. I feel like some of these jeans (with super-pronounced whiskering/pockets with no utilitarian value/unrealistic artificial "wear" all over) are really approaching 80s designer jean decadence. I think it's odd that a lot of people can reconcile these companies dedication to "authentic" "quality" denim and their decisions to make these jeans look really dumb. Man, I feel like a fashion-backward, crotchety old man now.
     
  16. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    Notice that in my top 10 jeans, nearly all are classic cuts and with little or no washes. I agree that the distressing thing has gone a bit too far, especially when paired with an extreme cut, like those of Notify or True Religion. On the other hand, I really do like the pocket detailing on the Da'mage Ice. The abrasions are obviously hand done, probably with a pumice stone, and quite distinctive, on a pair of otherwise classic cut pair of medium dark (but not tinted)jeans.
     
  17. Brian SD

    Brian SD Senior member

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    It seems that we disagree on what looks dumb or what doesn't. Most upscale jeans have distressing that is modeled after actual distressing from extensive and intensive wear. Most of the jeans LA Guy put in his top 10, and most of the jeans that would be in my top 10 do not have weird or absurd washes. I don't like the D'amage Ice jeans so much either, because the color is just kind of weird and the streaks crossing into the realm of "rediculous."

    As for the idea of faux-vintage, they can look nice, but it is always preferred that you do it yourself (there is a noticeable difference, and homemade always looks better). I see nothing wrong with buying pre-washed jeans with whiskering and fading, because there's just not enough sand in the hourglass to personally wear-in all the different types of jeans I want to have.
     
  18. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    I like the Ice. I think that you are probably talking about the City, which is a really streaky jean.
     
  19. moosy

    moosy Senior member

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    What about Replay Jeans?
    I have rarely seen them in the US but they seem to be great quality.
     
  20. amirrorcrackd

    amirrorcrackd Senior member

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    They have a boutique in Soho (it's huge too) and I've checked out their jeans. The quality/construction seems to be on par with Diesel (so very very good), but the styling I'm not really into. They have more styles of jeans than any other brand I've seen, so surely you can find something - but they all have a HUGE obnoxious leather patch on the back that I can't bring myself to wear. Otherwise, they seem to be quite good.

    Dan
     

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