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Ten best jeans

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by LA Guy, Feb 23, 2005.

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  1. Dill

    Dill Senior member

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    What is this about the BMX cut using inferior cotton? I bought a pair of these this last weekend, and it is my first pair of PDCs. I tried on several different cuts, but I liked these the most. I originally went to the store looking to buy my first pair of raw denim jeans. They didn't have any nudies, but they did have Earnest Sewn raw selvage denim. I tried these on but I didn't realize that raw denim was so long before it shrunk. I had to roll them up at least four inches so they didnt touch the ground. Anyways, I am happy with my PDC BMXs [​IMG]
     
  2. Charles Rogers

    Charles Rogers Senior member

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    I definatly need some pictures of your Nudies and the long term jeans you all are wearing.

    I am planning on coping a pair of A.P.C. Standard Jeans and Nudie Flare Glenn Dry. For the A.P.C.'s, will they wear like the nudies? And I have what some like to call a "large" butt, will those jeans work for me?
     
  3. Sevcom

    Sevcom Senior member

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    To me, the cotton in the BMX Marlowe doesn't have the same slubby, tactile feel and softness that older PDCs had. I'm talking about GTO 1-years, ICN Clones, and basically a lot of pre-2003 jeans. I admit I may have been prejudiced upon finding that the cotton comes from Turkey, rather than Italy or Japan. The new ones aren't bad necessarily, and the Marlowe wash is better than anything Chip and Pepper offers. But it's a step down from previous iterations of PDC treatments, IMO. Of course, the bottom line: if you like the jeans, none of that matters. Enjoy them. [​IMG]
     
  4. Brian SD

    Brian SD Senior member

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    As for the junk in the trunk... Nudie jeans use top quality denim, but evidently some particular ones (such as Bootcut Ola) stretch a LOT, which means that guys with a slightly bigger butt won't do so well in them. I am not sure about Flare Glenns. I would definitely try them on, however as most Nudies are very fitted and cut close in the seat. A.P.C.'s (standards) are also quite fitted around the seat. Again, I would try them on. You're probably fine. The A.P.C.'s will not wear like Nudies, per se, as they are made from a completely different denim weave and the dying process is significantly different. However, if you're speaking in a purely general sense, ALL unwashed jeans will get whiskers and fading if they are worn for extensive periods without washing. This is not really a Nudie-only thing, they just market this heavily and they are getting a lot of converts over to the unwashed denim market. There are 30 companies I could list out that all sell unwashed denim, and all of them will wear completely differently. I will definitely be posting of my RRs as they age. I'll post my first picture at 3 (90 wearings) so you can check it out.
     
  5. Charles Rogers

    Charles Rogers Senior member

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    I'll be sure to try them on, may have to wait till I got to NYC in May though. What are some other decent brands that are in the unwashed market? And lets say I am way getting into jeans, are there any other forums other than superfuture that has an ongoing discussion of this kind of stuff? This has been my favorite thread on styleforum, and I'm looking for more.
     
  6. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    mp us back to the top. Brian, I was really surprised about your telling me that you thought that the Nudie RR were slimmer than the GTOs. That wasn't my experieince at all, and I though that maybe one or the other company maybe used a very different fit model for sizing up and down (you are about 4 inches skinnier than I am.) Guess that confusion cleared up. As for raw denim jeans, although a fan of some of the Nudie, for value and original concept, you've got to give it to A.P.C.

    Hey Brian, get that belt yet? What do you think?( Maybe you've posted an answer maybe in another thread?)
     
  7. Brian SD

    Brian SD Senior member

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    I'm still waiting for the belt... Mr. Drinkwater said to expect it wednesday, so I'm expecting it today. [​IMG] Sorry about the sizing confusion, I didnt even think about the fact that I have different sizes when I first mentioned it. But you also have to take into consideration that I think 85% of people who buy RRs actually need to be ordering a size down (two for some) to get the right waist. They are cut really big on the waistband. Here are some other labels that sell unwashed denim: Edwin 5EP (my recommendation here, however very expensive) Denime Varvatos Levis LVC Uniqlo Lee Japan Helmut Lang Countless Japanese Levis-repro Howies Atelier La Durance There was a long thread on selvage denim at the Men's Health forum I read up on... one guy there really knew what he was talking about. Other than that, I have only found SuperFuture for discussions on this kind of thing. Some other websites should be coming around sometime soon. If I have the time, I might just start up a site focused entirely on jeans.. where to buy em, prices, reviews, photos, etc.
     
  8. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    I think that is the same guy who goes by the name ringring on the Superforums. He is really knowledgeable.

    I'm sort of torn about the whole raw denim thing. On one hand, it is sort of cool to break in your own jeans. On the other, I really disagree with the fanatical denimheads that insist on Japanese selvedge repros, and I'm sort of distressed (pun not intended) that the whole "raw denim" thing is becoming the jean snob equivalent to guys who will only wear hand canvasssed suits. Some processed, treated jeans are carefully designed and manufactured, and not meant to look or be the same as a pair of raw denim jeans that has actually been worn over time (although by the same token, some treatments are really horrendous). There is no way you are going to get a pair of Rogan jeans to look and feel like a pair of Rogan jeans, for example, from raw denim jeans.
     
  9. cest_vrai

    cest_vrai Member

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    I have to agree with Brian about the sizing of Nudies. I dropped down one size for my RRs, but i really should have dropped two sizes. As a result, there is plenty of extra room in the seat and the seat stuck out a bit when they were still stiff, but after wearing them for a bit i don't seem to have that problem too much anymore. Other than that, Nudies do seem to be relatively slim, but not the slimmest jeans i own.
     
  10. Brian SD

    Brian SD Senior member

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    Good points. I don't see the rigid jeans becoming a snob thing, because in general they are cheaper than their laundered counterparts and are far less luxurious in general. A lot more work goes into making the hand-rubbed distressed jeans than unwashed jeans like you said, but they don't hold the same level of authenticity and personality that raw denim does. The imperfections of jeans made on antique looms is what attracts me to it, each pair is unique and will wear disctinctively based on your wearing habits, and that is really cool. There's also an attraction, for me at least, to the "blank canvas" feel of new jeans, and the fact that they become my new art project, almost. I also like the characteristics of classic jeans, such as hidden rivets, selvage seams and straight legs, and I hold a general attraction towards the history of Levis and denim in general.
     
  11. Brian SD

    Brian SD Senior member

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    Oh, and on the Japanese denim thing, it makes no difference to me where my denim is manufactured. I think it just so happens that all of the manufacturers that appeal to hardcore denim nerds are based in Japan. I would have no problem buying unwashed jeans that came from Italy or Turkey - I think it's mostly coincidence.
     
  12. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    While unwashed jeans *are* generally cheaper than their processed counterparts, I nevertheless think that the whole "raw denim" thing *is* really catering to snob appeal.  

    First of all, pretty much only the cult premium denim brands actually make a raw denim jean (and don't anyone insult my intelligence and tell me I'm wrong because A.P.C. jeans are cheaper than say, Sevens.  Their policy to never have their jeans on sale and their extremely limited distribution are strategically to maintain their cult appeal.)  

    Second, all the gewgaws that goes along with the whole authenticity bit - the use of selvedge denim (which, in my experience, doesn't really add that much to the "durability" of the jean, although a lot of denimheads will contend otherwise), and thus the inherent need to have denim from antique (non projectile) shuttle looms, puts them out of reach of most the mass market consumer.  You can't fake selvedge effectively, after all.

    And the snob appeal of specialized knowledge is even more insidious than the snob appeal of being able to by a lot of money.

    I have no problem with wearing Sevens, or Levis Premiums, or any other ubiquitous jean that a denimhead who wears only A.P.C. and obscure Japanese brands would smirk at.  Actually, one of my favorite pairs is a boot cut pair of Sevens in a some discontinued dark wash (have never really noticed the saggy butt problem, but I wear my jeans rather low and loose, so stretching out jeans at the butt is pretty much never a problem.) That said, I *do* like to customize my jeans, raw, once-rinsed, or processed (am currently weaing a pair of self customized Da'mage Ice jeans, to have something "individual".)
     
  13. amirrorcrackd

    amirrorcrackd Senior member

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    LAGuy, I've noticed a few times to references of your own customized jeans. Would it be possible to post some pictures? I'd love to see.

    Thanks,

    Dan
     
  14. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    I'd love to have a digital camera. But don't worry, the jeans never get thrown out, and ony get more and more customized.
     
  15. Charles Rogers

    Charles Rogers Senior member

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    What are you doing to your ice's? Don't worry, I am not going to copy them, but I've been wearing mine hard (every day pretty much), and I haven't noticed a single change, so I am just curious to what you're doing with yours.
     
  16. ken

    ken Senior member

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    I saw an unwashed pair of jeans at H&M that looked like selvedge. They were 30-or-so dollars, so I assumed they weren't, but is it possible to fake? The ends of the seemed part, whatever it's called, weren't stitched up (the way non-selvedge jeans are to prevent unraveling) and they had that white edge that I've seen on some selvedge. You know what's up?
     
  17. Brian SD

    Brian SD Senior member

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    Selvage jeans are definitely getting more and more ubiquitous. They are not fakable. Many companies including GAP make selvage jeans - it does not necessarily mean the jeans are exceptional, or even good, for that matter (this is part of the problem that LA Guy is ranting about, people demanding selvage jeans when it does not mean that they are well-made or stylish any moreso than non-selvage PDCs). $20-40 Levis Shrink-To-Fit sometimes have selvage (depending on where they're made). The denim quality at H&M is probably horrendous.

    It's like Kenneth Cole putting functional buttonholes on their jackets. It doesn't mean the jackets are good, it just means that people are starting to pay attention to these gimmicks.
     
  18. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    GOt a rip in the left hip pocket, and had to put on a patch. Used darker denim (leftover from hemming another pair of jeans) and teal embroidery thread to tightly loop stitch it on.

    Then, to reinforce the pockets, I did a three layer stitching - chocolate brown loop, burnt orange chain (a little like the seam thread) and chococlate chain on each of the hip pockets.

    Then, a small hole developed in own of the wear bits. Took a piece of dark denim behind the hole (i.e. on the inside of the jean, and zigzag stitched that on with the organge thread. Pretty interesting looking.
     
  19. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    Actually, it is fakable. Companies will use a chain stitch to fake the selvedge seam. If you compare this stitch side by side with real selvedge though, you'll be able to discern the difference easily.
     
  20. BlvdDandy

    BlvdDandy Senior member

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    Brian, are you still thinking about starting a denim discussion board? If this thread is any indication, the interest is certainly out there. Do it.
     
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