So I'm still researching getting a MTM suit, sportcoat, trousers, shirts, etc. I've done some searching, but found nothing that's comprehensive. Can someone direct me to a thread/link/book, or just give me a general method for evaluating suit fabrics? What is the number after 'Wool'? I'm guessing it's thread count, in which case, higher number means better quality, I'd guess (among the same material). But what is the general scale? I'm also wanting to get a cotton or linen summer suit made. How are those fabrics ranked? I am sure this question has arisen tens of thousands of times on SF, but I don't think my searching was effective. I know this is an enormous can of worms, but I have always been into finer fabrics, etc. Also, do finer materials necessarily have lower life expectancies or durabilities? Thanks for any input. PS I've read through A Flusser's 'Dressing the Man,' and I've looked over his included swatches, but I didn't find them totally helpful, other than to give me an idea of the seasonality of fabrics.