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Technical Outerwear

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by hendrix, May 23, 2012.

  1. nineohtoo

    nineohtoo Senior member

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    ^I don't think it's so much difficult than it is just much more costly. A local brand I've been using for years has moved its soft shell production from the US to China, and recently to Canada. The move to China imo gave a much better product without much of a price increase, comparable to that seen with most consumer goods that have gone up. The stuff now being made in Canada is using water proof riri zips and the latest Schoeller stuff, and looks like it's built like some of the Veilance stuff(makes me wonder if they're being made in the same places?). But now the prices are gonna reflect that change. For a small or new company without an established fan base, that's gonna be tough to sell.

    I'm still interested in seeing what shoes people are wearing with their tech gear. I'm planning on picking up some Outlier OG Pants and maybe some Climbers soon and I'm trying figure out what shoes I'm gonna use. For baller stuff, I think the new premium Achilles look kinda nice, and snow's nylon Vandal recommendation sounds good, though I'd even settle for the regular Nike ones. I also like sneakers like my suede Hybrid Free boots or the Woven Mayflys, but I think they usually look weird when worn. I'm probably just gonna end up wearing black Authentic Lites most of the time :nodding:
     
    Last edited: Jul 31, 2012
    1 person likes this.
  2. g transistor

    g transistor Senior member

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    Just wear whatever shoes? Boots work too. Tech wear doesn't necessitate a full-out tech wardrobe.
     
    1 person likes this.
  3. KingJulien

    KingJulien Senior member

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    I think a big reason a lot of brands stick with Gore-Tex is that everyone assumes that all other waterproof fabrics are inferior.
     
  4. JunyaYamamoto

    JunyaYamamoto Senior member

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    most brands stick with gore-tex because they fear them. gore-tex is very powerful and bullies brand manufacturers into staying with them, and only them. here is the article:

    http://www.outsideonline.com/outdoor-gear/Insane-in-the-Membrane.html?page=all
     
  5. Cold Iron

    Cold Iron Senior member

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    It is because Gore-tex works, and very few other products come close. The only other one that I am aware of that is close would be eVent. I purchased my first Gore-Tex jacket ~1981 in Washington State, it was made by a small company down in Oregon called Columbia. Awesome parka and I wore it most of the year in the Olympic Mountains hunting and Puget Sound area fishing. Prior to that it was waxed cotton or solid rubber, both which made you sweat like hell with any physical exertion. Yeah at one time Columbia made some decent stuff. And it was waterproof until Ma Columbia decided she could do better and started with their own OmniDry crap that is worthless shit.

    In that article linked above near the bottom the author says: Phillip Gibson, supervisory physical scientist at U.S. Army Natick Soldier Research, Development and Engineering Center..... told me that, because Gore strikes a reliable balance of materials and construction, “soldiers seem to like Gore-Tex best.”

    And that has been my experience both with ECWCS gear and my civilian hunting and fishing gear. What he is referring to is the ECWCS parka shell (extreme cold weather clothing system) that has gone through several generations. It started with Gore-Tex then they tried several other synthetic membranes and are now back with Gore-Tex. Because it works best. I have tried a lot of other synthetics over the years but keep coming back to Gore-Tex, and also function over form. Especially when I am in a situation where my life depends on it miles from the nearest person without any communications available. If all your doing is wearing it in the city don't think it makes much difference what you wear.

    With Gore-Tex and most membranes breathability is a function of the face fabric and DWR in addition to the membrane. It can make or break the garment and some companies are better at it than others including the over all design and ventilation features.
     
  6. TheDroog

    TheDroog Senior member

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    Does anyone have experience with the new waterproof material mentioned in the Outside article, Polartec's Neoshell (http://www.neoshell.com/)? I'm very intrigued because Polartec has always been a pioneer in synthetic fabrics, and if they think they can take on Gore-Tex, I want to give them a look.

    I bought Polartec fleece way back in the day when it was first introduced and was relatively expensive. It was awesome back then, and those fleeces are still some of the best I've got. The cheaper fleece you find at Old Navy and Gap are junk compared to Polartek's fleece, and many of the top brands still advertise their items are made from Polartec.

    REI sold a Neoshell jacket on their website a few months back, but I couldn't find anything at my local store. Would love to hear if someone has had a chance to test it out.
     
  7. hendrix

    hendrix Senior member

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    That might have been true 20 years ago but in my experience it's not true now. I've used gore-tex and it's great but I also like other products.

    Soldiers just want to wear shit they're familiar with.

    I would say a major advantage of gore-tex over the high density weaves is how light it is.
     
    Last edited: Aug 4, 2012
  8. Cold Iron

    Cold Iron Senior member

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    I also had Polartec fleece when it first came out and still have a few pieces left, although I have moved to higher density fleece over the years like R4. If you like Polartech then I highly recommend checking out the Polartech power dry base layer if you haven't already. It is all I use for a base layer anymore. It has replaced all my technical silk and polypro. Depending on the temp merino wool over that, high density fleece over that and then a gore shell. It has kept me warm and dry down to -20 F while physically active and I always stay dry even in warmer temps too. Awesome stuff.

    Being retired military I can accurately say your statement is totally false. Soldiers 1) usually are young without any previous experience or bias concerning technical rainwear 2) Don't give a damn what it is made of. They just want it to work in the field.

    Even GT isn't the best in all situations. Hydrostatic pressure such as sitting on a wet log will cause your ass to get wet in a short period of time. Many of us are still looking for the perfect rainwear. In the Pacific NW commercial fisherman and most Alaskan hunting guides still wear rubber tops and bottoms. They avoid all technical rainwear including Gore Tex like the plague. Like I said I have tried several of the membranes including recently and for my use of heavy physical effort in all types of weather and temps. they don't cut it. And like I also said if all your doing is light physical activity like wearing it in the city it is fine for that use.

    Here is REI's take on membranes vs. gore tex (ePTFE and eVent), of which they sell several types of both:
    http://www.styleforum.net/t/301652/technical-outerwear/165
    Lower cost, yet the newest versions are approaching levels of breathability comparable to 2-layer and even high-end, 3-layer ePTFE laminates.

    They say it is approaching lower end 2 layer gore tex performance but they aren't there yet. Believe me.

    Backcountry.com (hey got to have love for the RAM!) has a short but good article saying exactly what I said:
    http://backcountrybeacon.com/2010/03/waterproof-breathable-buy-the-right-rain-gear/

    I have recently owned or own Marmot PreCip and the MHW Conduit mentioned, among others such as Dry-plus and Omni-Dry. And am still looking.

    As to footwear.. rubber boots of course. Half a size larger than normal with wicking socks under heavier smart wool socks. When your trying to get within kissing distance of a big game animal to stick an arrow in it also servers as scent control. And you can walk through most bogs and muskegs if your careful of depth. If longer faster walking is required such as backpacking, pheasant hunting or ruffled grouse busting through brush leather boots treated with HDLP can be made totally waterproofed. The Russel Moccasin Grand Slam Sheep Hunters are straight leather but treated with HDLP and never leaked. The Meindl Perfekt hikers are gore tex lined but also treated with HDLP. Same for the LL Bean Cresta Hikers and Meindll Perfekt Hunters. But not something you would wear everyday in town or the city. LOL or shouldn't IMO.

    [​IMG]

    Even suede like my AE suede chukkas are very waterproof treated with Bicks Gardmore. Well you did ask what I'd wear when the Zombies came. I'm going out in style.... [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    2 people like this.
  9. Lorcan7

    Lorcan7 Senior member

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    Just catching up on this thread - some good stuff on here!

    Currently I am lusting over the Stone Island Shadow Project Fishtail parka from A/W '12

    [​IMG]

    Its a wool/linen/nylon mix with "spalmatura" coating, and nylon backing, waterproof, breathable etc. etc.

    [​IMG]

    Also in sage green:

    [​IMG]

    One of the better fishtails out there I reckon, would kop if I had a spare $1500...
     
    1 person likes this.
  10. JunyaYamamoto

    JunyaYamamoto Senior member

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    today's your lucky day, this jacket is only $1060 with free shipping (if you're in the USA). if you're from europe, then it's 1300... check end clothing.
     
    Last edited: Aug 13, 2012
  11. Lorcan7

    Lorcan7 Senior member

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    I'm in UK and its £995 ($1562) at End, bit cheaper at Firmament Berlin. Maybe when the next sales season come around... hell where in US is it $1060?
     
  12. JunyaYamamoto

    JunyaYamamoto Senior member

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    it's not in the US, it's from end clothing which i believe is somewhere in the UK. they deduct 20% off for non EU customers. The retail price was like 1300, so after the 20% discount it came down to 1060. why it retails more in the UK, i don't know.
     
    Last edited: Aug 14, 2012
    1 person likes this.
  13. Spatlese

    Spatlese Senior member

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    Herno Laminar now available: http://havenshop.ca/the_latest_news/introducing-herno-laminar/

    Prices seem reasonable but I've not seen any of these in person yet. That Short Coat could fit a nice void in my tech collection.

    Related to Mr. Hugh, I know the lukewarm feeling towards some of Acr's bag collection, but apparently this upcoming season will be the last for those done in collab with Bagjack.
     
  14. gettoasty

    gettoasty Senior member

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    ^like the bomber and possibly the trench
     
  15. sinnedk

    sinnedk Senior member

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    Last edited: Aug 31, 2012
  16. g transistor

    g transistor Senior member

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    Got some outlier climbers. Feels good, like leggings!
     
  17. ExAngel

    ExAngel Senior member

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    Mar 27, 2012
    anyone know of some good trackpants out there? I liked the isaora ones but they were way too slim and now are out of stock in most sizes.
     
  18. hendrix

    hendrix Senior member

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    I've re-thought my position on some of the technical details of veilance et al. (microseams, waterproof zippers, laminated construction etc):

    While these innovations are small in perhaps insignificant, it is encouraging to see brands trying to figure out ways to do things better, not cheaper or more saleable.
     
    1 person likes this.
  19. eseanyang

    eseanyang Senior member

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    Jul 29, 2009
    Location:
    Vancouver, BC
    Anyone can recommend some technical outerwear for vancouver fall/winter weather? Preferably a jacket less than >$550
     
  20. Royal42

    Royal42 Senior member

    Messages:
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    Sep 5, 2012
    Aether will get the job done. However, you're looking at meeting the threshold of your budget. Some things are worth the money, though. If you kind find Veilance on sale--which typically isn't too hard--that'd be my choice.
     

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