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Teach Me About Jacket Shoulders

Bartlebooth

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One of the many things (I think) I've learned in my time here is that shoulder construction is one of the most subtle but important parts of a jacket. For assessing quality, for developing an individual style, for determining proper fit, for proportional appropriateness, the shoulder is key.

But in all 9,437 "LOOK AT MY NEW JACKET DO IT FIT?" threads, there doesn't seem to be an informational one about shoulders. So teach me about jacket shoulders: styles, fits, how to eyeball good and bad construction, etc. Or, ya know, point me to the good threads and the informative blog posts that I've missed.
 

Nicola

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Originally Posted by Bartlebooth
, for developing an individual style,



You need to start with this.

Some people have sloping shoulders and want to cover that up a bit with jacket shoulders. Others want something more natural.

Some people have narrow shoulders and a gut. So they might want extended shoulders to offset things.

Others are on the opposite end of the range and don't want extended shoulders at any cost.

So figure out the look you want first. Then make sure the jacket fits you. It doesn't matter how good somebody else looks in a jacket if it makes you look like crap.
 

NORE

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The advice I would give in this instance without going into too much detail is that when trying on a jacket the shoulder should pretty much go in a straight (or subtly curved) line from the neck to the shoulder edge. Then straight down the top of the arm.

There shouldn't be any bumps or lumps along the way.
 

Ianiceman

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What will earn you the most negative criticism from SF regarding shoulders is if they extend any more than slightly beyond the end of your natural shoulder. This will probably cause the aberration of dents and divots in the outside surface of your upper sleeves when your arms are hanging by your sides.

OTR jackets are sized by chest and many people think if the chest fits reasonably well they are good to go, without considering shoulder fit. Niidawg recently posted up a nice summary of what to look for in a well fitting jacket and he rightly mentioned that correct shoulder width is a key element.
 

lee_44106

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Originally Posted by Ianiceman
What will earn you the most negative criticism from SF regarding shoulders is ..........


90% of the SF'ers spouting off opinions regarding "correct shoulder" have not a clue what they are talking about, and are merely regurgitating what they have been fed. It's really the blind leading the stupid (or maybe the stupid leading the blind...)


Originally Posted by Ianiceman
...most negative criticism from SF regarding shoulders is if they extend any more than slightly beyond the end of your natural shoulder. This will probably cause the aberration of dents and divots in the outside surface of your upper sleeves when your arms are hanging by your sides.



Oy vey,
facepalm.gif



A larger jacket shoulder than the wearer's natural shoulder is NOT necessary a bad thing. It all depends on what is trying to be accomplished.
 

bleachboy

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Originally Posted by lee_44106
A larger jacket shoulder than the wearer's natural shoulder is NOT necessary a bad thing. It all depends on what is trying to be accomplished.

Can you elaborate, please?

I will say from experience that I have a nice Martin Greenfield suit with roped shoulders, and a few Zegna "Roma" models that are somewhat strong-shouldered and I think look great.
 

jefferyd

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Originally Posted by Ianiceman
. This will probably cause the aberration of dents and divots in the outside surface of your upper sleeves when your arms are hanging by your sides.

Wrong.

Shoulder width has absolutely nothing to do with dents and divots in sleeves.
 

bleachboy

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Originally Posted by jefferyd
Shoulder width has absolutely nothing to do with dents and divots in sleeves.

So what does?

This thread is very frustrating.
eh.gif
 

Despos

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Originally Posted by bleachboy
So what does?

This thread is very frustrating.
eh.gif


Width and height of the sleeve in relationship to the width and height of the armhole.


Shoulders are the most defining element of the silhouette of a jacket. They can be soft, natural, concave, convex, lightly padded, padded or built up. You want to learn/know what style of shoulder works best with the body structure of your shoulder and flatters your physique, then find who makes it.
 

teddieriley

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Originally Posted by Ianiceman
This will probably cause the aberration of dents and divots in the outside surface of your upper sleeves when your arms are hanging by your sides.

Originally Posted by lee_44106
90% of the SF'ers spouting off opinions regarding "correct shoulder" have not a clue what they are talking about, and are merely regurgitating what they have been fed. It's really the blind leading the stupid (or maybe the stupid leading the blind...)

Originally Posted by jefferyd
Wrong.

Shoulder width has absolutely nothing to do with dents and divots in sleeves.


This. While I'm sure Ianiceman is trying to be helpful, too much misinformation on SF. If you don't know what you're talking about, then don't write it.
 

Reevolving

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Originally Posted by lee_44106
90% of the SF'ers spouting off opinions regarding "correct XYZ" have not a clue what they are talking about, and are merely regurgitating what they have been fed. It's really the blind leading the stupid (or maybe the stupid leading the blind...)


Best post of the year.
 

jefferyd

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Originally Posted by bleachboy
So what does?

This thread is very frustrating.
eh.gif


Sorry. It's just that it's been done to death already.


Originally Posted by Despos
Wisdom

What he said.
 

bleachboy

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Originally Posted by Despos
Width and height of the sleeve in relationship to the width and height of the armhole.

Duh. That makes sense. Thanks!
 

either/or

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Originally Posted by Despos
Width and height of the sleeve in relationship to the width and height of the armhole.

...in other words, a question of fit between the two? -I'm pretty new to this stuff, but that would make perfect sense.

-also very pleased to learn that the flattering effect of the 0.5" 'oversized' shoulders on my thrifted test navy blazer and the sobering effect of the spot-on ditto charcoal orphan are not to be frowned upon
biggrin.gif


-thank you guys for your valuable input
smile.gif
 

Jan_

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Originally Posted by bleachboy
Can you elaborate, please?

I will say from experience that I have a nice Martin Greenfield suit with roped shoulders, and a few Zegna "Roma" models that are somewhat strong-shouldered and I think look great.


Somewhere here around I read that a wider shoulder was used to make the wearer look more hourglas-shaped since his waist wasn't the slimmest. So something that is "wrong" could be used to compensate for something else.
 

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