Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by downeasta, Apr 8, 2012.
Pardon my ignorance, but what is a trouser break? Also, any recommendations with regards to jeans?
6'7" 180 -- Only mtm/bespoke. -- All high rise / just a tiny break (1/4" or so) pants.
Nb this gives me a crazy rise (15+" fronts iirc), which is actually my main problem with rtw trousers
Remeber extra rise under your jacket isn't really that much of a problem.
<------- 5'4" 262
I think this is totally up to personal preference. I personally like the way it fits
I'm in the same boat as you - if I get a shirt that fits me perfectly in collar and chest then I need to roll the sleeves because of my comically long arms.
As a result I tend to wear TM Lewin shirts as I've found no other make as yet that will fit me in both neck and arms - I'll go MTM when I've got more cash on hand but for what I need right now I really have no bad words to say about Lewin.
A trousers's 'break' is the length the hem sits from the top of your shoes - the classic style is with no break at all but the whole Thom Browne way of life has breaks of up to an inch which show either a lot of sock or a lot of ankle. I tend to get my trousers tailored to have no break, so that the front crease is totally clean and straight down the front of the leg.
With respect to jeans I tend to buy 2 pairs of each style I want. 1 that has no break and sits perfectly on my shoes that I can cuff to have a break should I wish and I take the other pair to a tailor to break at just above my ankle for wearing without socks in summer and with boots during the winter months.
there is literally no pull on the buttons neither standing up nor seated and it's definitely not too tight. Maybe it has something to do with the narrow placket or the fact that it's tucked in... I am way more emotionally invested in this argument than I care to admit.
Which brands of jeans do you all usually buy?
This is actually completely backwards.
While correct about what "no break" is - where the front of your pants lightly touch the top of your shoes, creating a clean line from the beltline to the bottom of the pants (with no break in this line). A "full break" (usually recommended at that Jos. A. Banks and Men's Wearhouses of the world) is where the bottom of the pants touch the bottom of the leather uppers (causing a break in the line of the trousers in the front), and sometimes nearly to the floor. A medium break is generally refered to as halfway in between.
I am 6'3", 185 lbs. I wear a 42L jacket, 16 x 36 shirt, 33-34/34 pants, so I understand your concerns.
The only places that I can find shirts in the proper neck/sleeve length are Brooks Brothers and Nordstrom's brand. Go for the Brooks Brothers slim fit shirts or the Nordstrom SmartCare and you'll be fine.
In jeans, I find that a standard straight leg jean is the best for me. Basically, the standard Levi's 501 cut or similar. Skinny jeans would be too tight and make my legs look like matchsticks while boot or full-cut looks like I am drowning.
For polos, I like the Brooks Brother slim-fit perfomance polos. Also, I've figured out lately that buying short sleeve shirts in medium rather than large or XL tends to make the body fit me better. As long as the shoulders are wide enough, and they tend to be, a medium shirt is often a good choice.
In order to avoid having my legs look disproportionately long in comparison to my torso, I often leave my shirts untucked when wearing casual clothing and when wearing dressy clothing, wearing a suit coat or sport jacket creates a longer line that goes beyond the waist and makes your torso look longer and legs look shorter.
Finally, make sure you hit the gym because being tall and skinny is great, but building some muscle looks even better!
6'4" 260ish 44L coat (pushing 46L) 16.5/37 shirt
I need to lose like 25#s quick.
At 6'3" and 180 lbs. (after bulking up from 155-160 lbs. by lifting weights and eating 4 meals a day), with a similar body type as yours, I share your concerns. Here are some of my opinions:
For jeans, I buy only Levi's since they are the only brand I've found that offers 33/36. Dress trousers are easier to find since they are unfinished and can be hemmed, and sometimes cuffed (preferable), to the right length. The same is true of corduroy, moleskin, and linen trousers and they are all warmer in winter or cooler in summer than denim.
I use every trick in the book to de-emphasize my thinness, so I do the opposite of all the advice given to men who want to look taller. I look for every horizontal detail I can find, including horizontal stripes, checks, plaids, and other large patterns, ticket pockets on my jackets, double pockets on shirts, and safari-style shirts (with the double pockets, epaulets, and tabs to keep sleeves rolled up). Cargo pants are a good casual look for me. Like Bradford, I wear shirts untucked (whenever possible), jackets, and sweaters to elongate my torso relative to my legs. I wear contrasting colors on top and bottom, wide belts (never suspenders), cuffed trousers or bootcut jeans, and always have dress trousers widened below the knee. For as long as I can remember, I've been rolling up my sleeves to mid-forearm, first to hide that they were too short, but now to provide one more horizontal line.
My best suggestion is to find a good alterations tailor, even if it seems expensive. Almost everything I buy OTR goes to my alterations tailor, including my jeans. I've spent a small fortune on alterations, but the results are well worth the money.
On a side note, www.territoryahead.com has interesting casual shirts in Tall sizes that will get you out of the "dress/flannel/rugby shirt" hell that I was stuck in for years because I couldn't find long enough sleeves. Their quality varies, but I have a number of their shirts that are great, including 3 different "Great White Shirts" and a criss-cross cord shirt. They do textured fabrics especially well.
Disclaimer: I'm not affiliated with and have no financial interest in any brands mentioned.
One I forgot to mention - LL Bean sells a lot of products in tall sizes and they have some nice long sleeved dress and casual shirts.
I've found that the sleeves on their tall shirts are long enough to work for my 36-inch shirtsleeves and they are a lot more affordable than the Brooks Brothers or Nordstrom shirts I previously mentioned.
I second this. Lands End tall sizes are good, too, and their shirts are indestructible. I'd swear I've owned some of my LE OCBDs for 15 years.
This thread seems to be attracting the tall, average to less than average weight category types with some mid section flub. I would like to point out that it would certainly be less costly and less of a hassle in the long run to undergo a change in diet in order to get the midsection in check than it would be to drive your tailor nuts in trying to taper everything down except the lower torso. Maybe eat less bread and pasta and keep the beer guzzling to a minimum? In any case, I think that this thread might be helpful to the taller, skinny-sh guys....
Separate names with a comma.