Taking the waist and chest of a suit jacket in - Tailor always wants to add shoulder padding?

[italia55]

I have tailored many of my suits and the objective is always the same - The waist and chest of the jacket need to be taken in. The tailor accomplishes this by taking in the back seam and two sides, but he always insists on adding shoulder padding to make sure no ripples are near the underarms when the waist and chest are taken in. Problem is, these are Brioni suits and they already have a strong shoulder. Is this correct and typical to make sure the back stays clean when taking in the waist and chest?

On a quick side note, I am planning on buying another suit with a 43" chest and a 40" waist. Would you think it would be possible to slim those measurements by 2" each, as my suits usually work best with a 41" chest and 38" waist?

Thank you in advance for your help!

 

[Despos]

He is adding pads because the jacket is cut with a higher shoulder line and your shoulders slope causing the wrinkling. Brioni uses very small amount of padding.

Don't buy the 43, not a good idea.

 

[italia55]



He is adding pads because the jacket is cut with a higher shoulder line and your shoulders slope causing the wrinkling. Brioni uses very small amount of padding.
Don't buy the 43, not a good idea.

Thank you very much for the helpful advice! For future reference, why is it not advisable to buy the 43" chest and shorten it by 2"? I feel like my tailor takes in at least that much on all the other suits I have had tailored.

 

[Despos]

The numbers here are inconsistent. If you wear a 41 and he takes it in 2 inches then he would need to take in a 43 even more. Do you have a 38 trouser waist? If so then the trouser and jacket would need to be let out as a 41 would have a 35 waist and a 43 would have a 37 waist. The jacket waist would be fitted to the smaller waist measure and would be very snug if you have a 38 trouser waist. You also said he would shorten by 2". Did you mean to say that and are you referring to the jacket length or the sleeves?

 

[buzzron]

Whenecer I order suits I specifically add minimal padding because I'm 6'2" with broad enough shoulders to begin with and I don't want to look like a football player in my suit.

 

[italia55]



The numbers here are inconsistent. If you wear a 41 and he takes it in 2 inches then he would need to take in a 43 even more. Do you have a 38 trouser waist? If so then the trouser and jacket would need to be let out as a 41 would have a 35 waist and a 43 would have a 37 waist. The jacket waist would be fitted to the smaller waist measure and would be very snug if you have a 38 trouser waist. You also said he would shorten by 2". Did you mean to say that and are you referring to the jacket length or the sleeves?

I measured a Brioni Millenio 39R suit which fits me quite well at the chest (armpit to armpit) and waist (right above the pockets) of the jacket. The Chest measured 41" and the waist measured 39". This is after tailoring and taking in. As far as the trousers go, I wear a trouser waist size of 32".

Knowing this, do the measurements I quoted make more sense? I thank you for all your help and I wish I was local (I am in FL) to visit your tailoring shop!

 

[Despos]

The method of measuring you are using was created for selling clothes on the internet but is not how tailors measure clothing, Those measurements don't tell me anything.