Taking in a Harris Tweed jacket

[DavideMiguel85]

I discovered a Harris tweed jacket a couple of weeks ago, and absolutely love it. The overall quality is really good as well, you can tell it's been made with care. Almost everything is perfect (great for a "find") - the collar, shoulder, cuffs, length, lapels, button stance, overall shape - are all perfect.

However I think it could be a little sharper in the mid section. Maybe an inch or two. It does look 'okay' but the silhouette is a little broader than my other jackets. It has a double vent, so it should be quite straight forward to do.

I am wondering how much you can really take in without throwing things off? For example, it could pull the pockets around to the side a little, would that look weird?

I think I could ask for half an inch to be taken off the arms to make them thinner as well, but that again should be straight forward.

Is there a 'max' recommendation for what can be done here? I am planning on taking it to my alterations chap in a few days.

Thanks for your insight!

 

[Andy57]

Your alterations tailor is really the one who will be able to tell you what can and cannot be done. If done with care, you could remove an inch from the waist to get more suppression without too much difficulty and without damaging the balance of the jacket. The material would mostly come from the back, thus the pockets would not move their relative position. I think more than an inch and you are running a much greater risk of ending up with something that looks a little off.

Have you considered leaving it alone? Without a picture, it's difficult to assess the current fit. But Harris Tweed is about as substantial a fabric as you can get and, personally, I don't think it lends itself to closely fitted garments. The jacket may have been made to wear with woolens underneath and may have been made a bit more roomy.

But take it to your tailor and discuss it with him. His confidence in his ability plus your confidence in his ability will be the key factors.

 

[DavideMiguel85]

Thanks Andy. You're right of course, always best he sees things and we discuss properly, but I appreciate the outside input regardless.

You are right about the nature of Harris Tweed. I have considered leaving it alone as well, for which I am still undecided. If I overlap it a touch at the front (to give the impression of it being taken in), it just feel and look better, whilst not going OTT. Keep in mind I am in my mid 20's, pretty thin/average build, so a sharper fit does suit me, even if it's Harris tweed.

I think an inch from the waist and tapered up to the chest a little would be necessary. But then again, I'm not sure an inch would make much difference... Feels more like 2.

I will try and make a few photos if possible, just to show you, see what you think of the overall balance (maybe a before and after)

 

[DavideMiguel85]

Note 1: Taken quickly just with what I had on (apologies).

Note 2: I prefer wider lapels (no apology).

Note 3: Sorry, chopped off the top a little.

Thoughts on taking it in a little? I'm still undecided.

 

[Emthigious]

I wouldn't take it in, waist looks fine as it is.

 

[Andy57]

I wouldn't take it in, waist looks fine as it is.

I agree. Leave it alone.

 

[DavideMiguel85]

That is reassuring folks, thanks! (Even if my gf disagrees and thinks it looks fine but taking in a touch would also help).

What do you think about moving the pockets? They are patch with a flap, which looks a bit odd to me. I was thinking of moving them in an inch or so, and having the flaps removed?

There doesn't appear to be any fade in the fabric so it's either not seen much daylight or been cleaned much, which is consistent with general wear/condition of it.

 

[Emthigious]

I really wouldn't do anything about it

 

[dragos25]

Leave that pretty little thing alone, it's great

I'm gealous,lol. The patch flap pocket is a rustic/country detail that works with the fabric, and its placement doesn't look off to me. You could move it a bit closer to the edge if you want, should be simple, but don't remove the flap, it has a purpose.Sleeves look good too
I have a suit coat that "pulls" a bit like that when buttoned and I thought I should let it out a bit

If you're unconvinced try it on with a thin v neck sweater beneath. Wear a scarf and gloves and you have the perfect outfit for those fall days when It's too cold to wear just a SC but too warm to wear a SC and overcoat.
Ah, fall

 

[DavideMiguel85]

I live in a perpetual state of Autumn . I have a rotation of 5 tweed jackets, excluding this one, which I wear almost all year round... I have no shame. Only love.

Thanks for the thoughts on the pockets. I thought they looked a little far round, but if not, I won't bother fiddling.

How much room should one have in the chest/waist/mid-section? You see I've out on a (tweed) waistcoat, then a sweater, and there still feels like there is a touch more room than I'd usually have, compared to my other jackets.

Given the general impression I'll 'sit on it' for the time being & give it some use (though it would need to cool down a little!)

 

[dragos25]

As has been said, the midsection on that jacket is great, just the right amount of waist suppresion. Some people would say that if it pulls at the button it's too tight, others think a little pull is okay and "slim" fit - I thought so too but I've now discovered fuller cuts and I like them.Personal preference...
However, the vertical rumples near the armpits might indicate a bit of excess material there, but I wouldn't worry about it, clothes are made of cloth that moves and creases and rumples.
Post in the tailor's fit feedback thread if you have doubts - lots of knowledgeable people there
Enjoy the jacket!

 

[cptjeff]

That's already quite a bit of waist suppression, any more would look really weird. Don't touch it, it's perfect as is. I mean, seriously perfect. That's a spectacular fit.

 

[Murlsquirl]

Please, for the love of menswear, don't touch that jacket. It looks great.

 

[Andy57]

Harris Tweed isn't like flannel or worsted or really like anything else on the planet. It makes jackets that are burly, hard-wearing, and that will last a very long time. The jacket you have looks fine, it has some nice "country tweed" details and it is intended to fit comfortably. Over time, it will come to feel like a comfortable sweater. So don't try to to turn it into something that it isn't. Enjoy it!

 

[DavideMiguel85]

I will respect the outcry and refrain from any knee-jerk reaction )

I might show you a photo of myself with just the shirt one, before the jacket, so you can see perhaps what I meant. But tbh, I was amazed at how well it fit overall... you should feel the weight of it! Must be around 600g/m.

RE: slack/bunching around the armpits. If you see the back photo, there it also ever so sightly 'sags' across the back, level with the armpits. Doesn't bother me too much, you think it could be fixed?

I guess it sounds like there is more risk of it being fudged up when there isn't really anything wrong with it )