tailors in seoul korea?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by HanSoo417, Jul 14, 2008.

  1. pvrhye

    pvrhye Senior member

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    Sort of strange. They always do at least two fittings with me, if not 3-4. Then again I'm pretty picky. First fitting is more which makes it even more strange. Maybe you were happy enough and didn't ask them to change anything after the first fitting?

    Also the tailor they use can do a lot more than advertised. Make sure you know EXACTLY what you want if you go there. You can get a lot of extra details or more unique stitching techniques for free.


    As an exercise in specificity, what would you ask for?
     


  2. Oyaji

    Oyaji Senior member

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    I started working in Gyeongju in November and will live in Pohang from Tuesday.
    Is there any tailor/shirt maker to visit out of Seoul? Pohang, Ulsan, Busan, not worth?
    Also looking for a cobbler able to fix a metal toe that suffered from the last weeks snow/ice.
     


  3. impolyt_one

    impolyt_one Senior member

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    you guys need to really push those guys to not cut corners on your tailored stuff - they'll do things the proper way for no extra charge, but they'll be happy to cut corners unless you mention it specifically and be vrey precise about it (ie bringing them something with the detail you're looking for so they can use it as a guide) - this applies to stuff like getting removeable collar bones, getting matched yokes and matching the pattern from the yoke to the sleeve in the back, etc.

    Suits are a nightmare. Not happy with anything I've had made in Itaewon. Gotta keep trying, I think it may be partly my fault because I am not specific enough and get lazy when it comes time to commission things. It really doesn't matter who you use, it's a matter of how detailed you can get. Skill level is pretty much the same in Korea regardless of the tailor's store location, but obviously those downtown tailors are more ready to break out the Scabal and LP books since you're not coming in for a $500 suit.

    ps. get them to not press the lapels on your suits all the way down to the roll- they love to do that shit here and it looks terrible.
     


  4. Miha28

    Miha28 Active Member

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    you guys need to really push those guys to not cut corners on your tailored stuff - they'll do things the proper way for no extra charge, but they'll be happy to cut corners unless you mention it specifically and be vrey precise about it (ie bringing them something with the detail you're looking for so they can use it as a guide) - this applies to stuff like getting removeable collar bones, getting matched yokes and matching the pattern from the yoke to the sleeve in the back, etc.

    Suits are a nightmare. Not happy with anything I've had made in Itaewon. Gotta keep trying, I think it may be partly my fault because I am not specific enough and get lazy when it comes time to commission things. It really doesn't matter who you use, it's a matter of how detailed you can get. Skill level is pretty much the same in Korea regardless of the tailor's store location, but obviously those downtown tailors are more ready to break out the Scabal and LP books since you're not coming in for a $500 suit.

    ps. get them to not press the lapels on your suits all the way down to the roll- they love to do that shit here and it looks terrible.


    I think you're right. What tailors did you use? I'm thinking about bringing along some photos with the suits to show the style I'd like and some measurements (lapels,...).
     


  5. Prestwich

    Prestwich Active Member

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    Sort of strange. They always do at least two fittings with me, if not 3-4. Then again I'm pretty picky. First fitting is more which makes it even more strange. Maybe you were happy enough and didn't ask them to change anything after the first fitting?

    Also the tailor they use can do a lot more than advertised. Make sure you know EXACTLY what you want if you go there. You can get a lot of extra details or more unique stitching techniques for free.


    I should clarify - the reason for this approach was likely down to a combination of my limited time (one week) in Seoul and the fact that the week I was there coincided with the new year's holiday - I imagine that with more time I would have received more fittings.

    Still, despite these restrictions I'm really pretty pleased with the final product - I picked the suit up on my last evening in Korea and thus was concerned that I might get stuck with an ill-fitting suit. In practice, I think the tailor did an impressive job, especially given the time restrictions.

    As for being specific with my requests, I was able to do this to a certain extent (asking for working buttonholes on the suit cuffs, having the trousers sit lower than was initially suggested) but I'd be interested to know what other requests you make. For example, what kind of stitching might you ask for?
     


  6. Miha28

    Miha28 Active Member

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    Bit of an update from me - Savile Row is indeed still open for business next to Hahn's in Itaewon, despite reports to the contrary. I had a 3-piece suit made up there, as well as a few shirts. I was a little concerned at the lack of fittings (I was measured up, went back for one fitting, then picked up the suit a few days later). I normally like to have at least one more fitting than that to ensure that everything is right. However, I was impressed with the suit - it fit very well and seems to be well constructed. Mr Choe, the owner, clearly takes pride in his work and took the time to talk me through my fabric choice and discuss the various options available to me. For the price, I feel like I got good value and would recommend Savile Row to anyone looking for a well-made, good value MTM suit in Seoul.
    Could you post some photos please? What is the price range of Savile Row?
     


  7. Prestwich

    Prestwich Active Member

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    I got a 3-piece suit and 3 shirts made - it cost about 650,000 Korean won.

    I don't have photos to hand right now but will post some if I get the opportunity.
     


  8. pvrhye

    pvrhye Senior member

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    you guys need to really push those guys to not cut corners on your tailored stuff - they'll do things the proper way for no extra charge, but they'll be happy to cut corners unless you mention it specifically and be vrey precise about it (ie bringing them something with the detail you're looking for so they can use it as a guide) - this applies to stuff like getting removeable collar bones, getting matched yokes and matching the pattern from the yoke to the sleeve in the back, etc.

    Suits are a nightmare. Not happy with anything I've had made in Itaewon. Gotta keep trying, I think it may be partly my fault because I am not specific enough and get lazy when it comes time to commission things. It really doesn't matter who you use, it's a matter of how detailed you can get. Skill level is pretty much the same in Korea regardless of the tailor's store location, but obviously those downtown tailors are more ready to break out the Scabal and LP books since you're not coming in for a $500 suit.

    ps. get them to not press the lapels on your suits all the way down to the roll- they love to do that shit here and it looks terrible.


    Well, the thing is, though I know more than the average guy on the street about suits, I have no idea what the hell a scabal is. I'm trying to find the line between getting something that looks good and studying until I'm some kinda historian on the subject. I know all the general details, but it's a bit beyond my ability to describe the most specific details.
     


  9. impolyt_one

    impolyt_one Senior member

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    Scabal is English cloth, Loro Piana is Italian cloth, Dormeuil is French; I haven't seen Holland and Sherry here. Being that they're imported, they're very expensive - one yard can go up to 300,000W and you may need 4 yards if you're on the tall side, definitely more if you want 3 pieces.
    Anyway, to get a suit at 500,000W, you will have your choice of many Samsung Jeil Mojik-made fabrics (Goldentex is a line of JM.. in fact many Korean brands like Bean Pole, etc, etc are Samsung companies devised to push JM cloth, it's 100% vertically integrated) - that 500,000W splits down to about 150 in cloth, 50-75 for the tailor's manufacturing fee, and then the other half is their profit, or their safety margin in case they get a really irate customer who needs cloth cut again (try to imagine their faces if you were gonna ask them to cut another $100 in cloth because you didn't like the result - lol, yeah not happening) - so you can see that 5 bills is pretty fair for what is involved.
    Where the value comes in, is that the names thrown around in this thread tend to hand canvas as standard, they have nice lining constructions and the pants are pretty elegantly constructed inside, sometimes you'll get horn buttons if you ask for them, and then you can request many details like pickstitching, pant details (I get beltless trousers with a single pleat, it's a modern design i knocked off a pair of old Jil Sander trousers) etc, they will work on whatever you ask them to work on, and work is already charged to you, cloth or upgrades in cloth are not.
    There's more than a few crappy tailors in Itaewon too, you are better to stay away from what looks a bit gaudy. The good tailors have a calmer, more refined storefront, ie Hahn's or Savile Row.
     


  10. XKxRome0ox

    XKxRome0ox Senior member

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    so it's possible to get a 3 piece suit made in one week? from fitting to final pick up? that's good to know

    i just extended my stay in korea another week so i have 8 days to get a suit made if i choose to
    the basso suit at the dept store was like 440,000 won ... i'd much rather get a half/full canvassed 3-piece suit for 600,000-650,000 won
    i haven't altered the suit at all so i can still return it
    but
    i'm still a newbie when it comes to suits so i don't know if i would know enough in customizing a suit
    i guess i'll walk in with the suit pants and check out hahn's and savile row for copying... and if i feel confident enough i might just take the plunge and have a full suit made
     


  11. ryoneo

    ryoneo Senior member

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    so it's possible to get a 3 piece suit made in one week? from fitting to final pick up? that's good to know i just extended my stay in korea another week so i have 8 days to get a suit made if i choose to the basso suit at the dept store was like 440,000 won ... i'd much rather get a half/full canvassed 3-piece suit for 600,000-650,000 won i haven't altered the suit at all so i can still return it but i'm still a newbie when it comes to suits so i don't know if i would know enough in customing a suit i guess i'll walk in with the suit pants and check out hahn's and savile row for copying... and if i feel confident enough i might just take the plunge and have a full suit made
    Yes, a week should be enough time. If you go to Hanh's, he could make one in around 5 days, but he's always backed up in orders. Other places say they could make one in 2-3 days, depending on how fast you need it. Hanh's 3 pieces are 600,000won, with a 3 season fabric. Never really had a problem with him.
     


  12. XKxRome0ox

    XKxRome0ox Senior member

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    well i returned the suit jacket and just kept the pants ...
    if i have some time after my visit to the dentist (getting a crown done ugh) [​IMG]
    i'm going to swing by itaewon with the suit pants and go visit at least hahn's and saville row
     


  13. XKxRome0ox

    XKxRome0ox Senior member

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    went to savile row in itaewon today
    got measured and going in for my first fitting tomorrow
    getting a 2-button single breast charcoal suit
    3" lapels and high arm holes ...
    full canvassed and lined, double vents in the back
    horn buttons, slimmed sleeves
    asked for working cuff buttons ...
    left mr.choe my other suit pants so he can copy the design and fit
    using the jaeil mojik super 110 wool
    500,000 won for 2 piece suit
    hoping to get it all finished by next tuesday or wednesday (4-5 days)

    hopefully i didn't leave out any important details...
    it's my first time commissioning a suit so i was a little nervous
    hopefully it turns out fine
     


  14. pvrhye

    pvrhye Senior member

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    went to savile row in itaewon today
    got measured and going in for my first fitting tomorrow
    getting a 2-button single breast charcoal suit
    3" lapels and high arm holes ...
    full canvassed and lined, double vents in the back
    horn buttons, slimmed sleeves
    asked for working cuff buttons ...
    left mr.choe my other suit pants so he can copy the design and fit
    using the jaeil mojik super 110 wool
    500,000 won for 2 piece suit
    hoping to get it all finished by next tuesday or wednesday (4-5 days)

    hopefully i didn't leave out any important details...
    it's my first time commissioning a suit so i was a little nervous
    hopefully it turns out fine


    Be sure you throw up some pictures.

    On that note, anybody ever organized a Seoul meet-up?
     


  15. XKxRome0ox

    XKxRome0ox Senior member

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    i have to thank everyone who gave advice in this thread
    first of all, i wouldn't have even thought of getting a suit made while visiting korea if it weren't for this thread
    and secondly, i would not have known to ask for details like horn buttons and working cuff buttons
    mr.choe at savile row kept saying "well, we'd normally charge extra for that... but we'll just do it for you for free" to each of my requests
    lol

    i hope i chose the right fabric... 3 season charcoal super 110 wool...
    it's so different seeing the fabric in a roll instead of on a finished product
     


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