Tailors and other sartorial treasures in Napoli - from Men's EX

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by blackdice, Jun 18, 2011.

  1. blackdice

    blackdice Well-Known Member

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    So as I promised in another thread, here is a quick overview of the article from Men's EX June / July 2011 issues. It features a wide range of relatively unknown tailors and other artisans in Napoli.

    If you are interested in pictures and more details, feel free to pm me or leave a comment on my blog.

    It starts with an interview with Antonio Panico and his son Alberto, who has made a decision to succeed his father's business lately; it then argues how the entire tailoring industry in Napoli is challenging, especially with the sudden upsurge in the demand from Russia, etc. At the same time, there is a wave of the new generation artisans, who are taking a slightly different, and modern approach than their predecessors.

    It then introduces a mix of wellknown / unknown artisans in the city.

    1. Luciano Lombardi
    Known as a traditional camiceria, they are now expanding into the suit tailoring business with a strong focus on unstructured 'shirt jackets'.

    2. Ulturare
    A new tie maker exploring different / new design details including ties with a metal charm, 12 pieghe, etc.

    3. Mola
    One of the most wellknown and oldest trousers makers in Napoli. They are particularly famous for 'forma esse', that fits extremely well with the organic shape of the wear's legs. They do offer a limited RTW products, as well as some MTM service via some retailers (mostly in Japan). Incidentally, they make all my trousers that I order from Napoli and I'll upload an in-depth review of its construction shortly.

    3. Salvatore Piccolo
    One of the most successful "new generation" camicerias in Napoli. He takes a very creative approach to his fabric selection and details, that allows him to offer a wider range of products - including chambray shirts made in a fabric made in Okayama, Japan, and checked shirts with American details. He started working as a shirt maker 16 years ago, when he was merely 17 years old and now has 20 artisans working for his camiceria.

    4. Various suppliers
    It then introduces a couple of suppliers who provide buttons, threads, to the local tailors:
    Longobaldi Marcella: one of the largest suppliers in Napoli - offers everything from threads to shoulder pads
    Tramontano: button specialist - unfortunately closing their business shortly
    Consiglio: Fabric specialist with extensive selection of vintage linens - I am personally visiting them with my tailor next time I am in town

    5. Sartoria Vincenzo Daddio
    Yet another local tailor - not sure about what their specialty / unique selling point is. Hard to tell from the article.

    Then the July issue starts with an introduction of Errico Formicola, one of the protagonists who pushed the Neapolitan sartorial scene to where it is now, along with the likes of Rubinacci, Attolini, etc.

    6. Alfuredo Rifugio
    Leather specialist who recently developed a new technique to treat leather in a similar way as one does cloths, which allowed them to make perfectly tailored leather jackets. It has gained big popularity in the Russian market and apparently local customers are going nuts for a £20,000 croco jacket, etc.

    7. Max Ci
    Another tailor who has a particular focus on catering to the needs of bigger clients - particularly from Russia. They also accommodate a wide range of different (i.e. non Neapolitan) styles than other sartoria.

    8. Antonio Petrosino
    Antonio, still at 30 years old, is one of the youngest tailors who won the prestigious Forbici D'Oro last year. He servers a younger client base ranging from 30's to 50's. Incidentally, he is my tailor and those who are interested in his work, please pm me.

    9. Mario Talarico
    Umbrella maker who has +40 years' experience

    On a side note, Men's EX digital edition is now available from the Japanese iTunes store - so those who are paying premium on the paper edition may wish to consider it.
     


  2. chobochobo

    chobochobo Rubber Chicken Dubiously Honored Moderator

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  3. maomao1980

    maomao1980 Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Thank you, enjoyed the blog as well.
     


  4. andreyb2

    andreyb2 Senior member

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    especially with the sudden upsurge in the demand from Russia

    [​IMG]

    It has gained big popularity in the Russian market and apparently local customers are going nuts for a £20,000 croco jacket, etc.

    [​IMG] [​IMG]

    Another tailor who has a particular focus on catering to the needs of bigger clients - particularly from Russia.

    [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]

    Banis, is it you who placed huge orders in all these ateliers?!

    Andrey
     


  5. blackdice

    blackdice Well-Known Member

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  6. Eustace Tilley

    Eustace Tilley Senior member

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    This is great blackdice. Would love to hear more on Mola and Antonio Petrosino.
     


  7. Parker

    Parker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Thanks for the post, blackdice. I love finding out about these "sartorial treasures." The two Merolla shirts on your blog are beautiful.

    Incidentally, I wonder if London has any similar off-the-Row artisans.
     


  8. blackdice

    blackdice Well-Known Member

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    This is great blackdice. Would love to hear more on Mola and Antonio Petrosino.

    Pleasure. As for Mola, Men's ex featured them in the past.
    http://xbrand.yahoo.co.jp/category/fashion/3129/6.html

    You'll see how ridiculously curved some of the trouser legs are.
    The article also says that their RTW line Antico Pantalone is available from JPY55,000, and the Su Misura line from JPY126,000, which is a approx. 4-5 times more than you'd pay in Napoli.

    I now own a few pairs made by them and I am satisfied in principle. There is something, however, that makes me hesitant to say they are perfect, and I am still exploring what exactly it is. They are definitely much better than any of my RTW trousers by the likes of Incotex (J35), etc. though...

    Regarding Antonio, I think his style may be "love it or hate it" to many people, as his style is so much more subdued and less distinctively Neapolitan than that of other big names. Whilst keeping Neapolitan details such as the shoulder construction, high gorge line, pocket shape, etc., his silhouette looks leaner and cleaner to some extent. I am personally infatuated with his style and given that he's already nailed down my pattern to near perfection, I think I'll stick to him for a while.

    As is often the case with any other Neapolitan tailors, he does not have access to good English fabrics - so 90% of the time I buy fabrics myself and send them over to him, which doesn't bother me at all.
     


  9. Galix

    Galix Senior member

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    Great thread! [​IMG]
     


  10. blackdice

    blackdice Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for the post, blackdice. I love finding out about these "sartorial treasures." The two Merolla shirts on your blog are beautiful.

    Incidentally, I wonder if London has any similar off-the-Row artisans.


    Thanks Parker.

    I would be also interested in the off-the-Row artisans here in London but I have yet to find anything that is even remotely close to what you find on the street of Napoli... Although the Drakes factory is fairly "off-the-Row", situated in East London.
     


  11. Kaplan

    Kaplan Senior member

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    Some very nice photos on you blog and the RAF fresco coat looks great. What buttons are you planning to change to?
     


  12. ThinkDerm

    ThinkDerm Senior member

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    So as I promised in another thread, here is a quick overview of the article from Men's EX June / July 2011 issues. It features a wide range of relatively unknown tailors and other artisans in Napoli.

    If you are interested in pictures and more details, feel free to pm me or leave a comment on my blog.

    It starts with an interview with Antonio Panico and his son Alberto, who has made a decision to succeed his father's business lately; it then argues how the entire tailoring industry in Napoli is challenging, especially with the sudden upsurge in the demand from Russia, etc. At the same time, there is a wave of the new generation artisans, who are taking a slightly different, and modern approach than their predecessors.

    It then introduces a mix of wellknown / unknown artisans in the city.

    1. Luciano Lombardi
    Known as a traditional camiceria, they are now expanding into the suit tailoring business with a strong focus on unstructured 'shirt jackets'.

    2. Ulturare
    A new tie maker exploring different / new design details including ties with a metal charm, 12 pieghe, etc.

    3. Mola
    One of the most wellknown and oldest trousers makers in Napoli. They are particularly famous for 'forma esse', that fits extremely well with the organic shape of the wear's legs. They do offer a limited RTW products, as well as some MTM service via some retailers (mostly in Japan). Incidentally, they make all my trousers that I order from Napoli and I'll upload an in-depth review of its construction shortly.

    3. Salvatore Piccolo
    One of the most successful "new generation" camicerias in Napoli. He takes a very creative approach to his fabric selection and details, that allows him to offer a wider range of products - including chambray shirts made in a fabric made in Okayama, Japan, and checked shirts with American details. He started working as a shirt maker 16 years ago, when he was merely 17 years old and now has 20 artisans working for his camiceria.

    4. Various suppliers
    It then introduces a couple of suppliers who provide buttons, threads, to the local tailors:
    Longobaldi Marcella: one of the largest suppliers in Napoli - offers everything from threads to shoulder pads
    Tramontano: button specialist - unfortunately closing their business shortly
    Consiglio: Fabric specialist with extensive selection of vintage linens - I am personally visiting them with my tailor next time I am in town

    5. Sartoria Vincenzo Daddio
    Yet another local tailor - not sure about what their specialty / unique selling point is. Hard to tell from the article.

    Then the July issue starts with an introduction of Errico Formicola, one of the protagonists who pushed the Neapolitan sartorial scene to where it is now, along with the likes of Rubinacci, Attolini, etc.

    6. Alfuredo Rifugio
    Leather specialist who recently developed a new technique to treat leather in a similar way as one does cloths, which allowed them to make perfectly tailored leather jackets. It has gained big popularity in the Russian market and apparently local customers are going nuts for a £20,000 croco jacket, etc.

    7. Max Ci
    Another tailor who has a particular focus on catering to the needs of bigger clients - particularly from Russia. They also accommodate a wide range of different (i.e. non Neapolitan) styles than other sartoria.

    8. Antonio Petrosino
    Antonio, still at 30 years old, is one of the youngest tailors who won the prestigious Forbici D'Oro last year. He servers a younger client base ranging from 30's to 50's. Incidentally, he is my tailor and those who are interested in his work, please pm me.

    9. Mario Talarico
    Umbrella maker who has +40 years' experience

    On a side note, Men's EX digital edition is now available from the Japanese iTunes store - so those who are paying premium on the paper edition may wish to consider it.


    Wow. Nice write up.

    Would love to hear more about:

    Antonio Petrosino

    Mola

    Tramontano - and why they are closing (they make briefcases to my understanding, if this is the same company)

    Alfuredo Rifugio's work

    Thank you!
     


  13. vinveritas

    vinveritas Senior member

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    Thanks for the informative thread and blog, blackdice. Enjoyed them.
     


  14. M. Alden

    M. Alden Active Member

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    Both of the Mola bothers, Antonio and Gennaro, who learned their trade from the great Neapolitan tailor, Antonio Schiraldi, have passed away. At one time they were pretty much considered to be the best trouser makers in Naples and their work was highly sought after by Japanese visitors.

    The cut of their trousers was very different from the jeans like cut normally seen these days in Naples. It was about as close to trouser perfection as I have seen. A few years ago I wrote that the three most important things in a good trouser were "line, line and line." I had the image of Gennaro Mola's trouser in mind. Sadly, I found them too late and as far as I can tell, no one has taken up their cutting style.

    As I understand it, a nephew of the Mola's, a Mr. Marco Cerato is continuing their work.

    Cheers

    Michael Alden
     


  15. musicguy

    musicguy Senior member

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    +1 to all the posts in this thread!
     


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