Tailoring Question

[rah120]

This is a noob question so please bear with me. I tried on the RLBL and love the fit and noticed that the shoulders measure 18 inches for a 38. Most suits that I see being sold on ebay and here are 18.5 for a 38. So I was wondering if I were to buy a suit that had 18.5 shoulders, could I bring the jacket to a tailor and have him make it 18? Is this possible? Thanks for your input.

 

[jtang]

It is possible but the shoulders are considered the most difficult part of a jacket to tailor and thus the most expensive. IMO, I wouldn't be willing to take it to anyone other than the best tailor in your area.... of course, you'd have to spend a little more dime.

It costs $90 to tailor the shoulders at Citysearch's top ranked tailor in NYC. Of course, it's NYC and it'd probably be much less expensive in your area.

 

[rah120]

Ok great, thanks a lot!

 

[oldog/oldtrix]

Recutting a coat to narrow the shoulders is a major alteration and, regardless of the cost or the skill of the tailor, is unlikely to reproduce the look of the coat you like; and it is the appearance, not the half inch, to which you are most likely reacting. The shoulders of RLBL coats have minimal padding and a very rounded shape. If the 18 inch shoulder measurement gives the appearance you want, the same kind of shoulder construction but extending a half inch further is unlikely to be unattractive to you; in fact, you might like the extra droop over your deltoids. Many aficionados of the soft shoulder prefer such a slight extension, and I'm one of them. On the other hand or, rather, the other shoulder, if the half inch difference is due to the larger shoulder being built up, squared off, roped, etc., taking it in a half inch will not recreate the shape you're after. You'll just have a narrower shoulder that you still don't like.

 

[sartort]

RLBL as in Blue Label or Black Label?

Regardless, more than any other dimension imo, shoulders are the key to getting a good fit. If these don't fit from the get go, it's not going to be a well fitting jacket down the road.

18.5 seems quite wide for a 38R shoulder dimension. Most of mine are in the 17.5-17.75. The problem witha being a 38 and I know from experience, is that you can't really size down as 38 is usually the smallest size. Someone who is in the 40+ range has the benefit of being able to size down into a generously cut jacket.

 

[oldog/oldtrix]

I was taking the BL to mean Blue Label; if not, never mind all that stuff about soft shoulders. But don't recut the shoulders on a coat anyway.

 

[spence]

Remember that not all Blue Label suits are cut the same and that measurements are subjective and can be off like... A LOT!

Unless you have tried on the specific size and cut (i.e. Polo II, Congressman etc...) it's going to be a crap shoot going by Ebay measurements. If you know exactly what you're looking for then is the time to score the deal.

-spence

 

[rah120]

Ok thanks guys. I was referring to Black label. I tried on some Armani Black labels in the store and like the fit on the shoulder. I was looking on ebay for them and they all say they are 18.5 inches from the shoulders. Maybe their measurements are off?

ANyway, do you know which designers have 38 suits that are 18 inches or less? Thanks

 

[bbaquiran]

How much can a jacket sleeve be shortened? I wear 34S, but even on 34S jackets the sleeve is a couple of inches too long. My TaT suit has sleeves that measure 22".

Also, when shortening shirt sleeves, is only the cuff adjusted or should the entire gauntlet placket be moved up?

Sorry about hijacking your thread, rah.

 

[Master-Classter]

Originally Posted by bbaquiran

How much can a jacket sleeve be shortened? I wear 34S, but even on 34S jackets the sleeve is a couple of inches too long. My TaT suit has sleeves that measure 22".

Also, when shortening shirt sleeves, is only the cuff adjusted or should the entire gauntlet placket be moved up?

Sorry about hijacking your thread, rah.

I just got a 34R suit and the sleeves were a bit long so I had them shortened. The best case for you is to have the gauntlet placket and buttons "moved up" but the only way that happens is:

a) the sleeve is shortened from the top and while that's the best way to shorten a sleeve because it doesn't mess up the tapering or redo the most visible/delicate part of the sleeve (end), most tailors refuse to do it becuase it's difficult, easy to mess up, and they'd have to charge you a lot.
b) shorten the sleeve and recut the gauntlet, a lot of work, especially if they're not even functional cuffs or anything

So the short answers is: the tailor likely will shorten the sleeve, cutting off most if not all of the gauntlet and just resew the buttons higher up.

 

[bbaquiran]

Originally Posted by Master-Classter

a) the sleeve is shortened from the top and while that's the best way to shorten a sleeve because it doesn't mess up the tapering or redo the most visible/delicate part of the sleeve (end), most tailors refuse to do it becuase it's difficult, easy to mess up, and they'd have to charge you a lot.
b) shorten the sleeve and recut the gauntlet, a lot of work, especially if they're not even functional cuffs or anything

Thanks MC. Yes, I was wondering about how shortening the jacket sleeves would affect the taper. I figured if they just shortened from the wrist opening, it would get larger the further up they had to go, making re-cutting and tapering necessary at some point.

My second question was pertaining to shirt sleeves, not jacket sleeves though.

 

[beny]

99% of designer labels on ebay are fake.

 

[Master-Classter]

Originally Posted by bbaquiran

Thanks MC. Yes, I was wondering about how shortening the jacket sleeves would affect the taper. I figured if they just shortened from the wrist opening, it would get larger the further up they had to go, making re-cutting and tapering necessary at some point.

My second question was pertaining to shirt sleeves, not jacket sleeves though.

Oops re gauntlet, my bad. About that, if you're just taking off an inch or two then it's usually cheaper and easier to cut a bit off the gauntlet but not move the little button or the placket, it just ends up being that the button is closer to the cuff... nobody'll really notice. Moving up the whole placket/gauntlet (now I'm confused about terms) is doable, but expensive and IMO not really necessary, especially if there's a jacket overtop.