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Tailoring Question-Letting a jacket out (Paging Despos)

randallr

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Ok long story short, I bought a suit on eBay that I really like and everything fits perfectly expect that the jacket has been taken in from it's standard waist. I know this because the pants were taken in and I have a few of the exact same brand and make and they are all a little more roomy through my torso. So my question is: Can a jacket be let out once it has been taken in? I don't care if there are some tiny visible marks from where the old stiching was or anything. I just want to know if a competant tailor can do this as I usually encounter the opposite situation.

Thanks,
Richard
 

Despos

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You rang?

Yes. Some tailors cut out excess fabric when taking in a seam. You can look inside, under the lining, to know how much cloth is in the outlets.
 

randallr

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Originally Posted by Despos
You rang?

Yes. Some tailors cut out excess fabric when taking in a seam. You can look inside, under the lining, to know how much cloth is in the outlets.


Thanks...I really hope they didn't do this.
 

Despos

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Originally Posted by randallr
Ok long story short, I bought a suit on eBay that I really like and everything fits perfectly expect that the jacket has been taken in from it's standard waist. I know this because the pants were taken in and I have a few of the exact same brand and make and they are all a little more roomy through my torso. So my question is: Can a jacket be let out once it has been taken in? I don't care if there are some tiny visible marks from where the old stiching was or anything. I just want to know if a competant tailor can do this as I usually encounter the opposite situation. Thanks, Richard
You are welcome. You could have made your long story even shorter. Can a jacket be let out once it has been taken in?
 

Despos

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Originally Posted by Cary Grant

Can?


Easier to interpret than some of my answers.
smile.gif
 

randallr

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Originally Posted by teddieriley
Oh Richie.

So I opened the lining up myself and the tailor actually left the original seem and just sewed a knew one. I am going to try and take out the new seem myself!
 

Sanguis Mortuum

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Originally Posted by randallr
So I opened the lining up myself and the tailor actually left the original seem and just sewed a knew one.

Lol. I guess that makes it easier to undo, but also means it would have been impossible to iron open the new part of the seam. A bit of a botch-job...
 

Despos

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Originally Posted by Sanguis Mortuum
Lol. I guess that makes it easier to undo, but also means it would have been impossible to iron open the new part of the seam. A bit of a botch-job...

Not if the jacket has side vents. The seam is folded to one side and not pressed opened. No need to open the original seam.
Yes randallr or Richie, you can easily do this yourself. The lining may be trickier.
 

Sanguis Mortuum

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Originally Posted by Despos
Not if the jacket has side vents. The seam is folded to one side and not pressed opened.
It can be pressed can't it, just you need to slash to the stitch-line just above the vent? Any reason why you wouldn't do this? I guess the slashing might weaken the area a bit? It can also be pressed open at the top of the seam but folded over starting an inch or two above the vent, like Jukes does:
SDC10472.jpg
 

Despos

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If you slash the outlet to the seam you negate any possibility of letting out. Pressing this seam open is not the norm even though you can press open the seam and then fold one side of the outlet onto itself to the end of the seam. This is what we do at the outer sleeve seam when it reaches the open vent where you place the buttons/buttonholes. At the side seams it is cleaner and more simple to fold the seam to one side like making a lap seam.
 

Despos

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Just saw the photo. That is an example of the method I tried to explain.
 

Sanguis Mortuum

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Originally Posted by Despos
If you slash the outlet to the seam you negate any possibility of letting out. Pressing this seam open is not the norm even though you can press open the seam and then fold one side of the outlet onto itself to the end of the seam. This is what we do at the outer sleeve seam when it reaches the open vent where you place the buttons/buttonholes. At the side seams it is cleaner and more simple to fold the seam to one side like making a lap seam.

Thanks, this all makes a lot of sense
worship.gif
 

TRINI

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Mr Despos,

I have a (serious) question about drape in the jacket chest.

Examples shown here normally have the vertical folds right where the chest meets the shoulder.

If my jacket has a similar type fold but not right at that point, is that an indication the chest is too big or is that just fullness?
 

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