• Welcome to our newest affiliate vendor, Passus Shoes. We are very happy to welcome our newest affiliate vendor, Passus Shoes. Passus shoes was founded by long term members of the forum and veterans of the shoes business. and is dedicated to crafting fine shoes in Budapest in a time honored tradition. Please help me give them a warm welcome in their new affiliate vendor thread.
  • STYLE. COMMUNITY. GREAT CLOTHING.

    Bored of counting likes on social networks? At Styleforum, you’ll find rousing discussions that go beyond strings of emojis.

    Click Here to join Styleforum's thousands of style enthusiasts today!

Tailoring Question-Letting a jacket out (Paging Despos)

randallr

Distinguished Member
Joined
Jun 13, 2008
Messages
4,049
Reaction score
5
Ok long story short, I bought a suit on eBay that I really like and everything fits perfectly expect that the jacket has been taken in from it's standard waist. I know this because the pants were taken in and I have a few of the exact same brand and make and they are all a little more roomy through my torso. So my question is: Can a jacket be let out once it has been taken in? I don't care if there are some tiny visible marks from where the old stiching was or anything. I just want to know if a competant tailor can do this as I usually encounter the opposite situation.

Thanks,
Richard
 

Despos

Distinguished Member
Dubiously Honored
Joined
Mar 16, 2006
Messages
7,051
Reaction score
2,593
You rang?

Yes. Some tailors cut out excess fabric when taking in a seam. You can look inside, under the lining, to know how much cloth is in the outlets.
 

randallr

Distinguished Member
Joined
Jun 13, 2008
Messages
4,049
Reaction score
5
Originally Posted by Despos
You rang?

Yes. Some tailors cut out excess fabric when taking in a seam. You can look inside, under the lining, to know how much cloth is in the outlets.


Thanks...I really hope they didn't do this.
 

Despos

Distinguished Member
Dubiously Honored
Joined
Mar 16, 2006
Messages
7,051
Reaction score
2,593
Originally Posted by randallr
Ok long story short, I bought a suit on eBay that I really like and everything fits perfectly expect that the jacket has been taken in from it's standard waist. I know this because the pants were taken in and I have a few of the exact same brand and make and they are all a little more roomy through my torso. So my question is: Can a jacket be let out once it has been taken in? I don't care if there are some tiny visible marks from where the old stiching was or anything. I just want to know if a competant tailor can do this as I usually encounter the opposite situation. Thanks, Richard
You are welcome. You could have made your long story even shorter. Can a jacket be let out once it has been taken in?
 

Despos

Distinguished Member
Dubiously Honored
Joined
Mar 16, 2006
Messages
7,051
Reaction score
2,593
Originally Posted by Cary Grant

Can?


Easier to interpret than some of my answers.
 

randallr

Distinguished Member
Joined
Jun 13, 2008
Messages
4,049
Reaction score
5
Originally Posted by teddieriley
Oh Richie.

So I opened the lining up myself and the tailor actually left the original seem and just sewed a knew one. I am going to try and take out the new seem myself!
 

Sanguis Mortuum

Distinguished Member
Joined
Jul 2, 2006
Messages
5,059
Reaction score
135
Originally Posted by randallr
So I opened the lining up myself and the tailor actually left the original seem and just sewed a knew one.

Lol. I guess that makes it easier to undo, but also means it would have been impossible to iron open the new part of the seam. A bit of a botch-job...
 

Despos

Distinguished Member
Dubiously Honored
Joined
Mar 16, 2006
Messages
7,051
Reaction score
2,593
Originally Posted by Sanguis Mortuum
Lol. I guess that makes it easier to undo, but also means it would have been impossible to iron open the new part of the seam. A bit of a botch-job...

Not if the jacket has side vents. The seam is folded to one side and not pressed opened. No need to open the original seam.
Yes randallr or Richie, you can easily do this yourself. The lining may be trickier.
 

Sanguis Mortuum

Distinguished Member
Joined
Jul 2, 2006
Messages
5,059
Reaction score
135
Originally Posted by Despos
Not if the jacket has side vents. The seam is folded to one side and not pressed opened.
It can be pressed can't it, just you need to slash to the stitch-line just above the vent? Any reason why you wouldn't do this? I guess the slashing might weaken the area a bit? It can also be pressed open at the top of the seam but folded over starting an inch or two above the vent, like Jukes does:
 

Despos

Distinguished Member
Dubiously Honored
Joined
Mar 16, 2006
Messages
7,051
Reaction score
2,593
If you slash the outlet to the seam you negate any possibility of letting out. Pressing this seam open is not the norm even though you can press open the seam and then fold one side of the outlet onto itself to the end of the seam. This is what we do at the outer sleeve seam when it reaches the open vent where you place the buttons/buttonholes. At the side seams it is cleaner and more simple to fold the seam to one side like making a lap seam.
 

Despos

Distinguished Member
Dubiously Honored
Joined
Mar 16, 2006
Messages
7,051
Reaction score
2,593
Just saw the photo. That is an example of the method I tried to explain.
 

Sanguis Mortuum

Distinguished Member
Joined
Jul 2, 2006
Messages
5,059
Reaction score
135
Originally Posted by Despos
If you slash the outlet to the seam you negate any possibility of letting out. Pressing this seam open is not the norm even though you can press open the seam and then fold one side of the outlet onto itself to the end of the seam. This is what we do at the outer sleeve seam when it reaches the open vent where you place the buttons/buttonholes. At the side seams it is cleaner and more simple to fold the seam to one side like making a lap seam.

Thanks, this all makes a lot of sense
 

TRINI

Distinguished Member
Joined
Sep 7, 2006
Messages
9,027
Reaction score
654
Mr Despos,

I have a (serious) question about drape in the jacket chest.

Examples shown here normally have the vertical folds right where the chest meets the shoulder.

If my jacket has a similar type fold but not right at that point, is that an indication the chest is too big or is that just fullness?
 

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by

Featured Sponsor

How do you feel about spending money on non-essential goods during the Covid-19 crisis?

  • I don't want to spend money at a time of economic uncertainty, even if I could afford it.

  • I feel compelled to spend to help small businesses that are struggling.

  • I reduced my budget for non-essential goods and I'm not spending at the moment.

  • Not much has changed for me and I'm still buying stuff I can't afford.


Results are only viewable after voting.

Related Threads

Forum statistics

Threads
438,403
Messages
9,446,745
Members
197,950
Latest member
5harpere643rc9
Top