Tailoring Pants - Taking in vs. Letting Out

Discussion in 'Menswear Advice' started by scrollphaser, Feb 28, 2008.

Thread Status:
Not open for further replies.
  1. scrollphaser

    scrollphaser Member

    Messages:
    5
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Feb 28, 2008
    I could use some help and it looks like a lot of people here know what they are doing.
    I tried on a pair of slim fitting flat-front dress pants by Hugo Boss today.
    The opening at the bottom is 9" and seems to work good. My shoe is 10.5 B width.
    I originally tried on 33" but the tailor wanted to take in the waist and seat about a 1/2".
    I then tried 32", which seemed to fit better in the seat, but the waist was uncomfortably snug.
    He said he could let-out the 32" about a 1/2" in the waist only and not have to alter the seat.
    The 32" felt alright unbottoned and an extra 1/2" would probably do the trick.
    Which way is the norm? Is it ok to "let out" pants? Are there any side effects of doing so? Should I maybe just try finding a different pair of pants?
     


  2. Jared

    Jared Senior member

    Messages:
    1,635
    Likes Received:
    1
    Joined:
    Sep 19, 2006
    Location:
    Victoria, BC
    Letting them out is the right thing to do. For slim pants, buy what fits your thighs and have the waist altered.
     


  3. trailer36

    trailer36 Senior member

    Messages:
    173
    Likes Received:
    7
    Joined:
    Dec 3, 2007
    I agree 100%. You will be much happier with the fit if you let them out. I have made the mistake of buying suits with pants that are a 36 when I am a 34 waist. After they were taken in, they were much too baggy for my taste.
     


  4. Roger

    Roger Senior member

    Messages:
    1,936
    Likes Received:
    4
    Joined:
    Mar 26, 2005
    Location:
    Vancouver
    I'd recommend taking-in, rather than letting-out. Particularly with any fabric other than, perhaps, wool. Letting out a pair of cotton or linen trousers will leave a line where they were originally stitched that will always be visible--even with subsequent ironing--and with a smooth worsted wool, you could have the same problem. There's no reason in the world that a pair of 33W pants couldn't be taken in to a 32.5W without the slightest problems in fit elsewhere. Any decent tailor can slim the whole waist-to thigh structure, and could, if necessary, slim-down the whole leg. A half-inch reduction would be trivially simple. I've had larger reductions work well on occasion. I've had, for example, 36W trousers taken in to 34W, with a complete rework of the hips, butt, and thighs, so that there is absolutely no bagginess. There are limits, of course, to how much a pair of trousers can be taken in before issues of balance and cut arise. The consensus seems to be that this limit is about 2 units of size (e.g., 34 to 32).
     


  5. gumercindo

    gumercindo Senior member

    Messages:
    2,201
    Likes Received:
    37
    Joined:
    Jun 18, 2007
    Location:
    DC Suburbs
    Well, another useful trick is if your cotton trousers are a bit on the snug side and you don't want the tailor to let it out b/c of the visible stitching issue, you can always just have them move the clasp/button over a fraction of a cm. That avoids them having to let anything out.
     


  6. Philosoph

    Philosoph Senior member

    Messages:
    1,143
    Likes Received:
    2
    Joined:
    Nov 7, 2007
    Location:
    The corners of my mind
    Member a tailor consistently recommends that you not worry about the waist. Buy the pants that fit you in the seat and thighs, and then alter the waist in/out appropriately.
     


  7. Justin Wright

    Justin Wright Member

    Messages:
    6
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Feb 26, 2008
    I've never had pants let out; but all the pants I've had taken in have all been disasters for the reasons heretofore written. I'm considering a similar question with off the rack suits. I am a 38R coat and a 33R pant. Problem is: most 38R suits come with a 32R pant. I have in the past purchased a 39R suit in order to get proper fitting pants, and then have the jacket slightly taken in. On the other hand, should I be buying a 38R suit and then have the pants let out?

    In other words, what's preferred:

    1. Buying a 38R suit with a jacket that fits properly off the rack, and then altering the pants; or,

    2. Buying a 39R suit with pants that fit properly off the rack, and then altering the jacket?

    I think this is a good discussion. While most are too concerned with suit manufacturers, canvassing, etc.; I happen to believe that fit should be the top criteria. In other words, you can wear the most highly regarded suit in the world; but if it doesn't fit properly, it's worthless.
     


  8. Luc-Emmanuel

    Luc-Emmanuel Senior member

    Messages:
    1,586
    Likes Received:
    13
    Joined:
    Feb 2, 2005
    Location:
    Paris, France
    1. Buying a 38R suit with a jacket that fits properly off the rack, and then altering the pants; or,

    Do this. Altering the waist (letting out) on a pair of pants is easier and less costly than trying to alter a jacket which doesn't fit.
    I have sent pants to be altered, I got the waist and the seat taken in, the result was perfect. But I usually buy my right size which doesn't require waist alteration unless I happened to eat too much the previous month [​IMG]

    !luc
     


  9. noVA99

    noVA99 Senior member

    Messages:
    234
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Jan 15, 2008
    I would agree with it's best to let out.....I had tried on a Canali suit that was one size bigger than what I usually wear in Canali. The suit pants were baggy in the seat and thigh, with a little bit of waist that would had to be taken in. It would had to been hacked down in all areas for it to fit properly. I'm sure if I tried on one size smaller than my normal size, the pants in the seat and thigh would be fine, just the waist would have to be let out.
     


  10. gdl203

    gdl203 Affiliate Vendor Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

    Messages:
    36,836
    Likes Received:
    17,378
    Joined:
    Jun 9, 2005
    Location:
    New York
    I've never had pants let out; but all the pants I've had taken in have all been disasters for the reasons heretofore written. I'm considering a similar question with off the rack suits. I am a 38R coat and a 33R pant. Problem is: most 38R suits come with a 32R pant. I have in the past purchased a 39R suit in order to get proper fitting pants, and then have the jacket slightly taken in. On the other hand, should I be buying a 38R suit and then have the pants let out?

    In other words, what's preferred:

    1. Buying a 38R suit with a jacket that fits properly off the rack, and then altering the pants; or,

    2. Buying a 39R suit with pants that fit properly off the rack, and then altering the jacket?

    I think this is a good discussion. While most are too concerned with suit manufacturers, canvassing, etc.; I happen to believe that fit should be the top criteria. In other words, you can wear the most highly regarded suit in the world; but if it doesn't fit properly, it's worthless.


    Clearly 1 is the better option
     


  11. breakfasteatre

    breakfasteatre Senior member

    Messages:
    1,389
    Likes Received:
    4
    Joined:
    Mar 15, 2006
    Question, what kind of costs would i be looking at for:

    letting out a pair of slacks
    tapering
    hemming and cuffing

    I couldnt find anything in the search on the cost to do these and this post just happened to show up as i was about to make a new one
     


  12. gdl203

    gdl203 Affiliate Vendor Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

    Messages:
    36,836
    Likes Received:
    17,378
    Joined:
    Jun 9, 2005
    Location:
    New York
    Question, what kind of costs would i be looking at for:

    letting out a pair of slacks
    tapering
    hemming and cuffing

    I couldnt find anything in the search on the cost to do these and this post just happened to show up as i was about to make a new one


    Varies wildly between cities and tailors. My tailor would charge $25, $30 and $20, respectively
     


  13. breakfasteatre

    breakfasteatre Senior member

    Messages:
    1,389
    Likes Received:
    4
    Joined:
    Mar 15, 2006
    oh wow, there is a tailor a walk down the street from me, he told me 10 for the let out, 16.5 for the hem and cuff
     


  14. Tomasso

    Tomasso Senior member

    Messages:
    4,078
    Likes Received:
    7
    Joined:
    Mar 10, 2006
    Location:
    U.S.A.
    While most are too concerned with suit manufacturers, canvassing, etc.; I happen to believe that fit should be the top criteria. In other words, you can wear the most highly regarded suit in the world; but if it doesn't fit properly, it's worthless.
    Can I quote you on that?
     


  15. Justin Wright

    Justin Wright Member

    Messages:
    6
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Feb 26, 2008


Thread Status:
Not open for further replies.

Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by