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Tailoring advice

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by HRHAndrew, May 19, 2004.

  1. HRHAndrew

    HRHAndrew Senior member

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    Jul 18, 2003
    Location:
    Holland, MI (Most of the Time)
    I recently acquired a RLPL suit and while I like the fit, I find that the shoulders are a bit to sharp for my taste. Has anyone tried to soften jacket shoulders? Is it possible to have a good tailor open it up and modify the padding. Or am I crazy to think about undertaking such a venture? Advice/guidence appereciated as always.
     
  2. discostu004

    discostu004 Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    i've been told that a good tailor can do A LOT. obviously there is a limit to what anyone can do, but i've seen some amazing things done to a jacket
     
  3. johnnynorman3

    johnnynorman3 Senior member

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    I think there is no harm in just calling the best tailor you are aware of, asking whether it can be done, and how much it would cost. You may or may not want to mention that it is a PL suit. I'm not sure whether that would raise their estimate. My sense is that the estimate they give you on the phone will be pretty binding on them (not legally, but "morally").

    I've heard of people doing this, but I don't know about the success rate, price, etc. The only problem, in my opinion, would be that the shoulder pads may be uniquely fitted to the amount of fabric that there is in the shoulder seam area (or vice versa), such that a new shoulder pad wouldn't look exactly right. But, I'm probably wrong, because I know that others have done this. Look on this board's old posts and you should find some post re: this.
     
  4. dah328

    dah328 Senior member

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    Dec 6, 2003
    I bought an Armani sport coat off ebay that had uneven shoulder padding. I don't know how that happened (perhaps it was altered by the previous owner), but a tailor here in NYC did a pretty good job fixing that. I paid about $45 or so to have the shoulders modified which was more than the jacket cost me off ebay.

    dan
     
  5. Carlo

    Carlo Senior member

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    I have padding added to my right shoulder since it slopes a bit after having all the tendons torn a few years ago and yes, a good tailor can modify this pretty well - where do you live? Maybe one of us knows someone there.

    ...and yes, you are crazy but you are among friends who share your particular disorder :) Don't say 'crazy' as if that is such a bad thing.
     
  6. Len

    Len Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    74
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    May 8, 2004
    The padding can be reduced to soften the shoulders. What you have to be aware of are the consequences of such an action. If you remove, for example, the shoulder pads completely, then the shoulders will collapse on you causing unsightly creasing particularly at the back shoulder. To remove some of the padding will lessen this to a degree, but you may still see it.

    What you need to know in tailoring is that every action has a reaction. You alter at one place then something else manifests itself. If a coat fits badly then the manifestation will be positive. If it fits well, then your alteration may have a negative effect as far as fit is concerned. A good tailor will be able to advise you well.
     
  7. armscye

    armscye Senior member

    Messages:
    182
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    Mar 15, 2004
    The shoulder pads of a soft-shouldered suit generally consist of triangular pieces of felted and quilted fabric, held in place by basting type thread. The "roping" in a built-up or sharp shoulder is another piece of quilted fabric, often rolled in a crescent-shaped tube. Neither is particularly heavily sewn into place since the presumption is that the tailoring process may involve moving or removing them.

    In fact, my tailor knows that I need mine taken out, so when I arrive with a new RTW garment he turns one sleeve inside out, opens about six inches of the sleeve lining, reaches through the aperture, grabs the shoulder, pulls it through the hole, and snips away the shoulder pad stitching. Elapsed time to get the pads out is about one minute. That should give you some indication of how easily these parts of a suit can be removed., though of course the adjustment of the shoulder to compensate for the padding's absence or modification may be more involved.
     

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