Tailoring Advice

[Marshall Anthony]

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[mrjames]

forgive me if i'm being noobish, but I think you need to size down

you look like you have large shoulders in relation to your waist, so you might be a drop 8 rather than drop 6

the shoulders could do with an inch taken off each sides, and there is too much material in the chest which is (i think) causing the rippling

size down to get a proper fit in the shoulders, and get the body taken in to fit snug


the shoulder padding will serve to structure the shoulder but more importantly lift the arm hole higher, which should reduce the rippling. I think you need to look into brands with a higher arm hole though, your sleeve heads (top of sleeve) looks massive.

A tight fit in the shoulders with a high arm hole will give you the look, and contrary to pop-opinion will actually enhance movement

as for 'fixing' the jacket you already have, it can be done visually- the excess material can be tucked to smooth out the silhoutte, but at the cost of comfort because the low arm hole will restrict movement.
I have had this alteration done, it looks great, but you'd be better off getting rid of the suit and getting something with a higher arm hole

if you don't mind the jacket becomming 1.5" shorter, a competent tailor can pull the jacket up at the shoulders, re-attach the collar and lengthen the sleeves to compensate, but this will pull up the lapel gorge, pockets, bottom hem and button stance (not necessarily a bad thing though).

Also I think the vents are spreading out because the jackets waist is not actually sitting on your actual waist- again a symptom of having a jacket too big for you. So by pulling the jacket up at the arm holes 2 inches, it will actually sort out the vent problem too

 

[Marshall Anthony]

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[a tailor]

the problem is that your shoulder slope is more than the slope of the coat. the shoulder pads would do it but i am afraid that the pads would have to be very thick to do the job.


if the armholes are extremely deep there may be a partial solution.
the sleeves are removed and the shoulders sloped. this raises the bottom of the armhole giving you a higher armhole. the top of the sleeve cap will be cut down. all this takes a top notch tailor.
the armhole and the sleeve change and may not be a perfect match, but probably close enough.
the alteration may not clear all the drag at the blades, but it should help a great deal.
now your right shoulder is lower so that may still break at the blade.
may i ask. has the jacket been altered?

 

[Marshall Anthony]

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[a tailor]

unless you can find a brand that has a shoulder slope that fits you dont think you are going to be satisfied. you are prime for made to measure.

 

[grehamjones12]

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