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Tailoring a shirt in Africa, need your 5 cents

MrJeeves

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Hello, this is my first time writing here,

I am working in a small landblocked country below the equator in the deep Africa. About a half a year ago I started a mission to get myself a well fitting proper tailored shirt made here. Which is not as easy as it sounds as people generally favour 2 or 3 sizes too big clothes. Also, there is no tailors specialised in mens shirts available.

The tailor I am working with is skilled, but she has mostly been doing women's clothes. (Very nice modern African dresses i may add.) So the men's shirt has been a bit of an learning process for both of us.

However I think it's time I ask your opinion in couple of things. To save her and mine nerves.

As a background, about a year ago I had this shirt made by another tailor. It was the 3rd shirt, and every one had been slimmer than the other. With this one i think i stepped over the line. It got uncomfortable.

So this is where we started from. As this one was feeling uncomfortably tight especially on chest area, and sleeves were pulling like no tomorrow, i wanted to take one step towards a looser fit.

This was what we came up with:


In my humble opinion i liked the volume in this one. However the sleeves were still pulling. After reading a bit, we came to a conclusion that i'll probably need side pleats.

The next shirt was to be made with same measurements volume wise, but adding a bit fabric in the shoulder area (in a form of pleats).

And this was the next one:


Now, the sleeve pull feels acceptable. However I feel that there's a sail in the back, even though the volume was supposed to be same as in the blue (no2) shirt. (Measuring the shirts prove that.)

Worth noting is, that in this shirt the fabric is much more thicker and "hard" which probably contributes to sloppier "standing" in the back area..

In addition the pull in the back has moved from below the yoke to the seam between the yoke and the back. It was discussed that we would move the yoke half an inch upwards. Reasoning being that then the pull would be 100% on the pleat area.

Suggestions or other notes would be warmly welcomed.

Unless I'll instruct otherwise, I'll be receiving another shirt on lighter fabric with these measurements next week.

With Best Regards and thanking for your input,
Jeeves
 
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MrJeeves

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Polite bump.

Do i need to cut some fabric from the back ?

What else is wrong ?

With Thanks,
-J
 
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