Tailoring a high end suit

[teddieriley]

I just bought an Oxxford 44R (neiman marcus) from ebay for $400. When it arrived, it was quite amazing, but older than I anticipated as the tags with the model name on the pants and inside jacket pocket were faded and hard to read. I'm guessing it was dry cleaned more times than I want to know. I believe I purchased the Manhattan model. I took it to the tailor to have it altered, and it looks like I'll be paying about $100. I have to take the sides of the jacket in. Unfortunately, I have to let the sleeves out 0.5 inches since it's short and he has to add material (which will be folded inside and hidden). He has to rework the waist because it was huge - meaning cutting material, adjusting things so the pockets are not out of alignment, and moving belt loops. And he has to hem them.

My question is, does having all these alterations defeat the purpose of having a high end suit, which I think is a majority, handmade? Please correct me if I'm not understanding what handmade vs. machine made means, but this tailor is having to redo a lot using that sewing machine of his. I know these alterations are essential for it to fit well...

 

[Duveen]

You bring up an interesting question. I generally avoid things that will require heavy alteration. Can you return the suit or is it already with the tailor?

That said, most people here will tell you that the parts he is altering won't be hurt by being machine-stitched. The areas where handwork matters most (and I may be corrected here) are: setting the shoulders, padding the lapels and adding little details like pickstitching. A curtained waistband in trousers may also be improved by handstitching.

Your tailor will not be touching most of that stuff.

The real question is: is $400 a good value for an ancient Oxxford suit? Maybe yes, maybe no. I'd sure feel better if you got it for closer to $200 (or at a thrift store for $40). That said, I bet it ends up looking decent and giving you good service.

The thing to remember is that fit and style are as important, if not more so, than construction. An 80s looking suit won't do you any favors, even if handstitched and beautifully made. Unless you want that look....

So the 'dreck' from Alfani or whatever can be a better value than a $500 all-in 80s-era Oxxford if what you want is a stylish modern cut.

 

[teddieriley]

I see what you mean. It seems being a pretty fit person wearing a 44R, any suit I buy (not including suit separates) will have to be tailored pretty heavily to get the proper waist suppression on the jacket, proper sleeve length, hem, and waist size. The only suit jacket that I have that didn't require any suit suppression was Theory, but of course, they're known for their slim fitting wear. But with that, I don't want to only be relegated to Theory (and it's quite overpriced at full retail).

I have this decent Hugo Boss suit, and although it appears my Oxxford is pretty damn old, I noticed how much nicer the jacket fit compared to the fused, and pretty stiff chest HB.

Hearing that I should have paid only $200 gets me thinking, but for the past several weeks I haven't found a 44R Oxxford that's the right color. Anything that looks newer, if not NWT, is at least $800. My Oxxford doesn't look dated, and I think it will be good to have a classic in the wardrobe.