Tailor in London for a classic navy three piece wedding suit

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Will1v, Feb 14, 2016.

  1. Will1v

    Will1v Member

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    Hi there,

    Sorry if this has been answered already but I've searched the web a lot and haven't quite found my answer.

    I'd like to have a three piece suit done by the end of April. I'd like something really classic with a dashing cut. I'd like the suit to be really well done but I'm not looking for anything fancy (plain fabric, navy colour, a slim fit but not over slim).

    I'm in London and would like to avoid the Row (as I have the impression there is a premium for it), but I would like to avoid a tailor that has too much of a modern fit. I have a very standard figure (5ft 10/1.78m, 70kg) so made to measure would be fine. I probably need to pick a tailor this week, so if anyone has any good suggestions, I'd love to hear about them!

    Will
     


  2. add911_11

    add911_11 Senior member

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    I do suggest you to try Maurice Sedwell or Edward Sexton. I have tried the latter myself and I love their cut and make.
     


  3. Testudo_Aubreii

    Testudo_Aubreii Senior member

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    ^ Excellent advice. Edward Sexton and Maurice Sedwell deliver dashing cuts. Google Sexton for pics and vides. I'd also suggest Davide Taub, who's now head cutter at Gieves & Hawkes (having left Sedwell in 2012). He certainly does a dashing silhouette, and he's perhps the most innovative cutter in London right now.

    If you want MTM, try Timothy Everest. Or search SF for Off-Row bespoke. Most houses can do a silhouette that isn't slim fit. Just tell them you're looking for something more classic, less drainpipe.
     
    Last edited: Feb 14, 2016


  4. bengal-stripe

    bengal-stripe Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Although, strictly speaking, Sexton is not a Savile Row tailor (he is based several miles away from the row), stylistically and price wise he belongs very much to Savile Row. He is also one of the most expensive tailors in London. Also, Sedwell and Sexton have a very distinguished and somewhat mannered house style (which you either love or loathe). I believe the OP is looking for someone more middle of the road, as far as style and price are concerned.

    Someone like Graham Browne (who I have no experience with) might fit Will's requirements much better.

    http://www.grahambrowne.co.uk/
     


  5. ntempleman

    ntempleman Senior member

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    Going off Row there's Sims & McDonald, and Connock & Lockie on Lamb's Conduit Street; the Allen dynasty gives you two north London options in the shape of Charlie Allen and Joe Allen, both in Islington; Redwood & Feller are in Pimlico; Alexander Boyd and P A Crowe operate in the City along with Graham Browne. Then there's things like Cad & Dandy or Whitcombe & Shaftsbury's lower priced offering to consider.

    I wish I could shoehorn an ampersand in my name somehow.
     


  6. Andy57

    Andy57 Senior member

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    Templeman & Co.? Templeman & Templeman? Templeman & Nicholas? [​IMG]
     


  7. ntempleman

    ntempleman Senior member

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    I was thinking of Templem&n or something like that, but yours are all much better.
     


  8. Will1v

    Will1v Member

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    Everyone, thank you so much for all your answers.

    To clarify, style-wise I don't mind get as close as I can to Savile Row. It's the fact that I have a pretty standard figure and that I'm not looking for anything eccentric that makes me think I might look for MTM off the Row options.

    Also I do want a slim fit, but I sometimes see tailors that seem to go a bit too far, with very skinny trousers, short jackets, what I would describe as more of an Italian style (but then that's probably not at all what Italian style is all about, I'm pretty new to all this).

    I read about E Sexton already, but he is quite expensive indeed, so I figured there might be a better option off the row.

    On the other hand, since the fabric will be pretty sober, if I want the suit to look stunning, it'll have to be all down to the cut...

    Anyway, any feedback of tailors that you've been to is really good to have.

    Thanks again

    PS: @Testudo_Aubreii, when you say "I'd also suggest Davide Taub, who's now head cutter at Gieves & Hawkes (having left Sedwell in 2012)", do you suggest I go to G&H's MTM service or that he cuts suits of his own?
     


  9. Will1v

    Will1v Member

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    I've checked out all these tailors on Google, it's hard to decide; often there are very little pictures to see what their style is.
    Have you tried them yourself? Or know of someone who has?

    Also, I'd like a quite strong feel to the shoulders, possibly with rope shoulders, not sure who would be the best for that.

    And back to E Sexton, I've read he cuts gorgeous bespoke suits indeed, but is that true for MTM too?

    Thanks for your help,

    Will
     


  10. add911_11

    add911_11 Senior member

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    I just think if OP can pay savile row price, there is nothing bad in picking a worthwhile Savile Row tailor that justify the price.

    Maurice Sedwell, G&H Bespoke and Edward Sexton are so unique on their house style that if someone is looking for a special English rope shoulder garment, he should really check them out inside the store and feel their garments and see whether they like them.

    Chittlesbrough & Morgan may also be a good choice but my personal experience with them aren't very good.

    Overall, I will go for Maurice Sedwell given they have the "board and firm" look alogn with some personal touches. They seems to be very consistent with their work as well, out of the garments I have examined, touched and saw.


    However, at the end of the day if OP is only willing to afford a MTM program (which will be in no way substitute a bespoke operation), best is to check out any RTW line-ups from brands he like and start from there. Mind you some Savile Row firms do offer MTM program but only very few of them has the same "house-cut" with their bespoke. I have used Richard Anderson MTM before I thought that was ok.
     


  11. Will1v

    Will1v Member

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    To be honest, I've been reading about MTM and bespoke for a while now, and although I think I get the technical difference (the tailor will create a paper pattern to fit your measurements rather than using a pre-designed pattern + you can choose pretty much anything, where you might have less options with MTM), I'm not sure I understand why MTM would be nowhere near bespoke for someone like me with a pretty standard figure. I would have thought that the little adjustments you get from the MTM pattern would be good enough to get a perfect fit.

    What am I missing?

    As to price consideration, I would be ready to pay Savile Row MTM prices for a stunning suit, but I'm still building up a bit of muscle and I fear I might not be able to wear the suit anymore in a year, which is why I'm thinking it might go for a slightly cheaper option.
     


  12. add911_11

    add911_11 Senior member

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    There is a significant difference between MTM and bespoke. The pattern will be desgined afresh which means you can ditate how the coat will sit on you (e.g. collar height, open or close quarter, waistline, armhole, paddings, back and front balance). MTM manufacture will not have all the bespoke touches e.g. two piece collar, hand padded lapel and chest. Overall, if you have too many alteration on MTM intended block pattern it rarely turn out to be good looking.

    This is speaking of my experience and I also have very moderate and typical body shape.

    If you are really looking to only wear the suit for one year only (presumed that you dont wear the same thing for all seasons), I will rethinking whether I should buy a new suit in the first place.
     


  13. Will1v

    Will1v Member

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    Thanks for the explanations. I'm not sure I would be aware enough to spot all the details you mention, but I understand what you mean.

    Would you then recommend a "modest" bespoke over a Savile Row MTM (it seems some tailors do bespoke for the same price as SR MTM, Cad & the Dandy for instance)?

    As for postponing the suit, my wedding being in 2,5 months from now, it's too late for that I'm afraid.
    I really want to look my best for her ;)
     


  14. add911_11

    add911_11 Senior member

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    I see, congrats and I am sure your future wife will apperciate your effort.

    Having the price factor on spot, I dont have a conclusive UK experience but I can vote to refrain from Graham Browne and Richard Anderson MTM... I have a friend used Andy Livingstone at G Livingstone and I like their cut... It is very Darren Beamen shape but with a more business relaible operation.

    Their price should not be too expensive.

    I have also heard something good from Desmond Merrion. No personal commission experience or by my own hand and they locate in Leeds.
     
    Last edited: Feb 16, 2016


  15. Will1v

    Will1v Member

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    Just had a look at Andy Livingstone's website, and I have to say I really like the pictures. But I won't have time to go up North alas.
    If you know of anyone doing a similar style in London, I'd love to hear about it.

    Other than that, I've taken your advice and got an appointment with Edward Sexton tonight (actually with Dominic), at least to have a chat. We'll see what comes out of it.

    Thanks for the advice anyway.
     


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