Tailor Etiquette Question

[earthdragon]

I am finally going to have a SC made, (prior to pulling the trigger on a Suit) and was curious to know whether it is appropriate to take along a sample Jacket, which is a favorite? I essentially want a copy, ( in my choice of fabric) of an RLPL by St Andrews, Cashmere jacket in a light gray herringbone.
Patch pockets, notch lapels, rear vents - though I am wondering what the consensus is on single button vs 2/3 roll?
Thoughts welcome, as I am looking at fabrics on Saturday.

 

[IndianBoyz]

You certainly could wear the jacket when you visit your tailor and explain you like the particular style and show him the details.

 

[bringusingoodale]

Is is considered crass to ask a tailor to copy a favorite jacket? I doubt you are really copying a jacket, you should just mention you want the particular cut or fit of the jacket.

As far as details go, why not go for something different given that it is a new jacket.

 

[dbc]

I don't see why it would be...

 

[mktitsworth]

When I was asking a tailor recently about his bespoke options, he specifically said to bring in a jacket whose style I like.

 

[Lightbringer]

Originally Posted by bringusingoodale

Is is considered crass to ask a tailor to copy a favorite jacket? I doubt you are really copying a jacket, you should just mention you want the particular cut or fit of the jacket.

As far as details go, why not go for something different given that it is a new jacket.

Yes and no. Most of the time it's good so you can illustrate what you like. But then it's a bit much to go to a tailor very known for a "house" style and then demanding they do something completely contrary to that. So a bit of both.

 

[Holdfast]

By all means, wear a jacket whose fit you like.

Beware, however, of requesting an exact copy. Firstly, it may not actually fit quite as well as you think, and the tailor may be able to improve on the fit in ways you haven't realised. Secondly, many tailors have developed particular aesthetic preferences over the years of their training and practice, and so acquired the skill sets required to deliver that aesthetic. Leaving aside the distinct possibility of bruised feelings at some more established tailors if you demand a direct copy, even if they're quite happy to try copying a garment, they may be an excellent tailor but not talented in copying particular details of what you want copied. This is may not end well.

On the other hand, if your tailor happens to be talented at the kind of details and construction you want copied, then it may all turn out swimmingly well. Some tailors also pride themselves in being flexible enough to copy all sorts of different constructions. I am inherently a bit skeptical of such broad claims, but many have built thriving businesses around this model. One day, I'm going to take a favourite old Brioni suit of mine to one of the Far Eastern operations that are used to copying items, and see how they manage copying it. I would never ask my usual tailors in this country to try copying it.

 

[DerekS]

my tailor told me to bring a jacket that I thought fit good. It bridges the communication gap i think.

 

[GBR]

Don't insult the tailor by telling him to copy it but do wear it to indicate the general style you would wish him to achieve.

 

[Aldehyde]

I think it is the only way for the tailor to realistically assess how you like your coats to fit. Some like them a bit looser, some a bit tighter. Wear in what you like and he will know what you are looking for.

And do remember, you are paying him and the tailor is working for you.

 

[Digmenow]

Sort of still on topic, what's an appropriate tip for alterations? I'm using the lady who does alterations at the local K & G store and my current rule is $5 minimum or 20% once it gets beyond that. I'm probably overtipping because she will put a rush at no charge on anything I bring her. I took her 2 pairs of wool odd slacks that I had thrifted to have the length adjusted (cuffed) and she threw in taking in the seat of one pair ($13 normally) to slim them down for free.

I often wonder if anyone else tips her at all.

 

[Flartchy]

I agree, if you bring it in and make it a topic of discussion with his input, you'll go far.

 

[Ianiceman]

Originally Posted by Digmenow

Sort of still on topic, what's an appropriate tip for alterations? I'm using the lady who does alterations at the local K & G store and my current rule is $5 minimum or 20% once it gets beyond that. I'm probably overtipping because she will put a rush at no charge on anything I bring her. I took her 2 pairs of wool odd slacks that I had thrifted to have the length adjusted (cuffed) and she threw in taking in the seat of one pair ($13 normally) to slim them down for free.

I often wonder if anyone else tips her at all.

If they are doing extra stuff for you then tip away till your heart's content.

I always feel that the prices I am charged are on the high side so I never tip for altertions It's not like these are waiters on minimum wage with an expectation of gratuity. I would suspect their pricing structure reflects the highest they can get away with and remain competitive.

 

[Matt S]

Originally Posted by Aldehyde

And do remember, you are paying him and the tailor is working for you.

This isn't always the case. Many tailors believe that they are doing you a favour by accepting your business.

 

[ter1413]

def wear it there...