I have been considering making a tailcoat and am pondering some decisions. Maker- WW Chan vs NSM? WW Chan made my tuxedo and I believe that Patrick will be able to guide me to make all the appropriate decisions and details. If I make it through Patrick, I am sure it will stylistically correct. OTOH, Chan's shoulder line is not quite as clean as NSM's. I have never seen an Italian tailcoat. Does anyone know if they are stylistically different from the British? Material - Midnight blue or black; mohair blend or wool? The balls I would be going to are pretty much all in the winter, so I am leaning towards a middle weight cloth. My tux is made from a black Scabal barathea. I don't mind using the Scabal book again but I was wondering if people have tried other options. Lesser has a formal book starting at 12oz and above. I have a made a suit from Dormeiul's Tonik, but are there other mohair formal options I should consider? Thanks.