SWD Discussion Thread for Tailoring

[DorianGreen]

Quick question, everyone. I'm putting through a new trouser design with RTC that we can start offering at the end of the Summer.

It seems like saying "bootcut" or "flared" is a loaded term, but I'm fielding requests for custom trousers in a 70's inspired fit. Something that's more Brad Pitt in "Once Upon A Time" than John Travolta in "Saturday Night Fever." For the overall profile, I came across this pic of Bad Bunny and thought that it's a good starting point:

View attachment 1964483

Of course there's a lot of other things going on like Kendall Jenner's leg, the dual iced-out cross chains, and the security guy in the back who looks like a AI image combination of the Rock and Jason Statham, but we if focus on the pants.. what do you guys think? This would be a custom shape that clients can order in any fabric.

Not my style, but I like this look, the trousers have nice length, width and drape.

 

[hendrix]

I've been into the wider-pinstripe jackets of late. This shot from Dalcuore is 👨‍🍳.

I know it's like a cool menswear thing but I don't like the denim snap shirt in this context.

 

[DorianGreen]

I know it's like a cool menswear thing but I don't like the denim snap shirt in this context.

Neither do I, totally out of place.

 

[whorishconsumer]

 

[hendrix]

Neither do I, totally out of place.

it's deliberately done obviously with the spezzatura type thing, it's just hard to be convinced by all that spezz with the back turned cuffs and single unbuttoned jacket cuff and watch and pocketsquare etc.

I mean the guy looks good objectively so it's fine, just not my taste

 

[DorianGreen]

it's deliberately done obviously with the spezzatura type thing, it's just hard to be convinced by all that spezz with the back turned cuffs and single unbuttoned jacket cuff and watch and pocketsquare etc.

I mean the guy looks good objectively so it's fine, just not my taste

Never liked this kind of ostentacious "sprezzatura", where it's evident that everything is thought and arranged.

Actually it's the opposite, wearing something not caring that much.

 

[kashmir]

i almost never like any sort of pinstripe or chalkstripe ever

the denim snap shirt thing looks good with some 70s or 50s- leaning look, bryceland's guys do that well i think

 

[sam67]

I'm not beholden to precisely that combination. I think for "city suit" I'm accepting of lower rise, flat front. I just enjoy the part with high-waisted where my pants don't get pushed down by my belly.

Berg Berg actually has a high-rise, flat front, relatively tapered model. I think the "Alf".

Any other shops that might make high rise? It seems very logical to have the pants waist at the natural waist rather than the hips as I play around with it using the pants I have. They just don't have the rise needed. Thanks.

 

[whorishconsumer]

Any other shops that might make high rise? It seems very logical to have the pants waist at the natural waist rather than the hips as I play around with it using the pants I have. They just don't have the rise needed. Thanks.

If you don't mind fuller leg and/or pleats, then yes. Scott Fraser, Stoffa, Rubato, possibly Cavour's latest Mod 3 trouser.

Also, arguably the Armoury chino is a high rise, and that is flat front.

Edit: Casatlantic is another. @mossrockss I think knows a bit about mid-tier European tailoring lines with designs that lean more classic.

 

[clee1982]

I don’t think true high raise looks good without a jacket or certain body type, I would still stick to some sort of medium rise

 

[eazye]

i almost never like any sort of pinstripe or chalkstripe ever

the denim snap shirt thing looks good with some 70s or 50s- leaning look, bryceland's guys do that well i think

That's crazy, chalkstripe flannel is my favorite suiting fabric.

 

[kashmir]

That's crazy, chalkstripe flannel is my favorite suiting fabric.

that's about the only one configuration I am okay with. smooth finish ones are no no!

 

[clee1982]

Why, pinestripe too much banker association?

 

[hendrix]

 

[clee1982]

Color aside pretty standard CM?